Breaking Paint

[Deebo]

Hello,

I just got a new tac-1,(lvl 10, ULT, Air america high pressure, and Halo), and the first thing that happened was I was having velocity spikes up to 397 the first time I tried to chronograph it. So the factory sent me a new reg seat and that seems to have fixed the velocity problem, but it hasnt stopped my other problem of regularily breaking paint.

Its hard to tell if Im chopping paint or what, cuz sometimes it will break on my 1st shot. But usually it happens when I shoot fast. The guy that runs our field said it is most likely that I am short stroking the trigger, and that is causing it to chop/blow air and break the paint? I have my ULT tuned so it has quite a bit of bounce but it doesn't run away.

My main question is can shortstroking cause chops even with the level 10? And what are some solutions to my problem. Should I switch back to the stock on/off or just practice shooting? I just spent alot of money to get this gun and set it up and it hasnt worked since day one, so I am getting frustrated thanks.

Darren

[syl58]

imo, i dont think that the level 10 can really chop at all, stick your finger in there (or tongue, whatever) and shoot, maybe you are just using crappy old paint in cold weather or barrel is too small, etc

[Deebo]

imo, i dont think that the level 10 can really chop at all, stick your finger in there (or tongue, whatever) and shoot, maybe you are just using crappy old paint in cold weather or barrel is too small, etc

Well I thought that too. But I have used several types of paint. 3 different batches of RPS premiums and several others. Also I tried some other barrels.. so I dont know. I know my level 10 is working quite well, but what about the short stroking? I know the bolt wont chop, but will it still blow air by the ball if its only have way in?

[rb211]

Where is the paint breaking, in the barrel or the breech? If it is broken at the breech, than you need to tune your level 10. If it is breaking in the barrel say halfway down, than it's your paint. I get barrel breaks occasionally, but I don't always use the best paint.

What kind of barrels are you using? Are you matching paint to your barrel's diameter?

[Deebo]

Where is the paint breaking, in the barrel or the breech? If it is broken at the breech, than you need to tune your level 10. If it is breaking in the barrel say halfway down, than it's your paint. I get barrel breaks occasionally, but I don't always use the best paint.

What kind of barrels are you using? Are you matching paint to your barrel's diameter?

Its breaking in the breech. But my level 10 is adjusted pretty light. Also it sometime breaks on my first shot? I used the stock barrel with several types of paint. Besides, its breach breaks so I dont think its the barrel.

So what you guys are saying that chops should be pretty well non existant with the level 10? Should I put in the red spring and try that? I can stick a rolled up paper towel in there and the level 10 stops on that?

Could it be the short stroking thing? Please help. Thanks.

Darren

[K Wolf]

Overly stiff ball detent?

[athomas]

I would go with the scenario of brittle paint combined with a tight bore.

A chop is when a paintball gets sliced because it is only half way in the breach from the feed tube. The level 10 prevents chops. It is evident that it works because yours stops on a piece of rolled paper. That is a good thing.

A barrel break can still occur in the breach area when the ball is pushed into the barrel, especially if the barrel is tight. the level 10 can't always stop this from happening. The level 10 only limits the force on the first 1/4" of the bolt stroke. Even with a tight bore the ball gets pushed forward with no opposition until the ball is half way into the barrel. At that point, the full diameter of the ball is making contact with the inside diameter in an overly tight barrel. At this point, the level 10 bolt is also at full force. The ball will get squeezed into the barrel even if it means busting the ball.

A short stroke is when you pull the trigger without completely releasing the previous trigger pull. This results in slower chamber recharge due to the on-off not completely opening, plus you are shortening the charge time by rapidly pulling the trigger more than 1 time in quick succession. The end result is a lack of pressure in the chamber of the mag. Usually this results in a "chuff" and the bolt resets and nothing happens because the bolt does not have enough force to push the ball forward. When you release the release the trigger, the mag chamber recharges and is ready to go. On the odd occasion, that the chamber does have a higher value of pressure it may not fire but it may push the ball forward and out the barrel (usually and lobbed ball) and allow a second ball to drop into the breach area. If the first ball does not leave the barrel or breach it can cause breakage when the next ball is fired. This usually does not happen and if it did usually means something is not setup properly or there is interference with the operation of the level 10 bolt. In this case I doubt you are short stroking.