Loctite (?) Removal

[Rhandhali]

I just purchased a classic 68 Powerfeed, my first paintball marker, and the air hose that connects the bolt to the tank elbow appears to have been loc-tited in place. Is there a safe way to apply the necessary amount of heat without damaging anything?

I've also heard that there are some thread sealants that are red or reddish in color. Any ideas on how I can get this mess apart without destroying anything?

[rtfire1]

arm power. becarefull of heat. i have never found a fitting that was glued in place that i could not get off. i have had to use a lot of arm power before on a automag i did a rebuild on but after it moves some it came right off.

[psychowarden]

A candle is what I use when Im applying heat. Just get some pliers and hold the object over the flame, and after a while, it should budge, and then its simple to get out.

[Dayspring]

Plain old cigarette lighter works too. But copius amounts of gorilla strength go a long way.

[Rhandhali]

Thanks, I'll give it a try when I get home tonight. I was figuring on a gas grill lighter and a good long handled spanner.

[awilli234life]

boil the part 180% for a little while does it

[Dryden]

A long handled something should do the trick. The fittings, as they are from AGD, are alot harder to budge than what most do-it-yourselfers put together. But you should be able to get it out without having to resort to torches and vice grips.

longer handle = more torque

[Rhandhali]

A long handled something should do the trick. The fittings, as they are from AGD, are alot harder to budge than what most do-it-yourselfers put together. But you should be able to get it out without having to resort to torches and vice grips.

longer handle = more torque

I'm just really worried about damaging or scratching something - part of the threadlocking is in the valve assembly after all and I'd like to avoid cosmetic as well as functional damage.

[Dryden]

I'm just really worried about damaging or scratching something - part of the threadlocking is in the valve assembly after all and I'd like to avoid cosmetic as well as functional damage.

Since it's a classic valve, all the pieces are brass and/or stainless steel. The only thing you need to worry about damaging is one of your own knuckles.

[Rhandhali]

Since it's a classic valve, all the pieces are brass and/or stainless steel. The only thing you need to worry about damaging is one of your own knuckles.

Fair enough. I got my first Mosin-Nagant tore my hand up trying to remove the rusted in place cleaning rod, I'd rather not repeat that.

Should I dissasemble the marker or leave everything put before I make my attempt?

[Dryden]

Take everything apart first, since you could wind up really doing a number on the rail as it's aluminum and will scratch very easy, plus you don't want the field strip screw snapping in half.

Disassemble until you can hold just the valve in one hand and a good, appropriate sized wrench in the other, then twist until you're about to turn blue in the face. It'll budge without any voodoo.

[Dryden]

Follow up: Once you do get the original fitting out, go over the threads in the valve with a dental pick or a Q-Tip and make certain you swab out all the little pieces of residue left over.

[PhoenixWolf]

Use Vise grips, tighten them down, and clamp them on there solid. That will give you enough strength to torque it and break the Loctite. Once you get it off, use a hobby knife to go through the threads to remove any remaining Loctite.

[Rhandhali]

Has anyone tried methylene chloride? The loctite said that that stuff would help with the removal and I should be able to get some from my chemistry lab.

[shades]

Warning Methylene Chloride is a nerve agent when heated so do not use HEAT if you are using this product!!!!!!!