Breaking paint BIGTIME!

[Wheelman]

Looking for some input here, I have a 68 classic w s/f (wait till I'm finished before you say thats my problem) I started out using some older (2 or 3 weeks) Nitro Duck paint. I didn't have ay barrels that fit it real well and it performed horrible. Then I switched to a fresh case of Marbs and things got better, it fit my barrels well more accurate and consistent. I thought "great takes care of the problem". I chrono in, no problems at all, get out on the feild and rapid fire a few groups a one of the bunkers (ya know, somethin' to do while you wait) perfect. teams are set and the ref yells game on. I am now the proud operator of a Wagner power sprayer. I mean nothing came out solid. I did this with my j&j ceramic, armison and my teardrop. They all have V nubbins and the bore is perfect. I don't angle my gun when I am shooting so I am a little confused. I doesn't usually do this to me, maybe Murphy wasn't on my side or somthing. Just wanna know why it's breaking at the worst possible moments. And I am not one of these guys who loses his mind when they blow the wistle and forgest all sense of whats going on, if that helps.

[joeyjoe367]

Assuming that you're not short-stroking the gun, I'd have to say that you were using some not-so-great paint. But Let me ask you a few questions:

1. Were you shooting fast when the breakage occurs?

2. How old was the paint that you were shooting?

3. Did you do a "Drop Test" to check the fragility of the paint?

4. What did your velocity Chronograph at?

5. Do you have a moterized hopper?

6. Where exactly, is the breakage occuring? (Ex: Down the barrel, In the Breach, Pwrfeed[aka: chop], etc...)

If you have a couple leftover paintballs, do the drop test with 10 of them. Drop them onto a hard surface (concrete) from about 6 feet, and catch it on the first bounce. See how many times it will bounce before it breaks.

A lot of people have recently been having problems with the new "Advantage" Shell that RPS has been using. It IS a lot more round than any other paintball out there, but it tends to have a more fragile shell.

[BTAutoMag]

switch to brass eagle, and see if it breaks then . just keep switching paints untill youi find the right one. my mag only can use RP and Brass Eagle for some reason. marbs break in mine too so all you have to do is find the right paint to match your barrel, sort of the opposite of matching your barrel to your paint. and if that dont work empty your hopper on the ground and throw the paint at them. who knows you minght nail him in the mask and get him out

[Wheelman]

More Info

1. I was firing faster before the game started and when I was doing one shot strings it would still break.

2. Paint was about a week old

3. No.

4. Chrono'ed in at about 265-270

5. I am using an X-board revvy w/ an Evil prop.

6. Not quite sure where. I belive it is in the breech, that's where my biggest mess was. after a few of them it was chop city.

Don't have any left to drop test, sorry.

It is odd but I switched markers later in the day and had absolutley no problem what so ever with it in my M98 w/ Exell barrrel.

[BTAutoMag]

accualy i think i know whats wrong cause it happened to me once... is your powerfeed plug pushed all the way in and straight

[Wheelman]

Nope

Can't be the problem, I don't have a powerfeed plug, because I don't have a powerfeed

[joeyjoe367]

Well, it looks like what u got is some bad/fragile paint, for a mag anyway. I don't know how hard m98's are on paint, but it seems like it's too fragile for your mag.

The next time you buy a case of paint, take 10 paintballs a drop test them (i'm assuming u know what I'm talking about, if not, check Tom's Tech Tips).

If they're too fragle, leave a cup of water in each of your bags, and leave it for a day or so; make sure to take them out after the day is over.

Bounce test again and you can keep putting a cup of water in each bag until you have an optimum bounce.

...I forget how, but I think that the salt-slurry will help too. Do a search.

[BTAutoMag]

well then that could be your problem get a power feed

[AGDSaul]

Is your marker pre-firing (This is when there is a hiss before the actual shot.) This may cause the Paintballs to bobble foward and double feed thus causing chopping.....

How to check for pre-fire.....
Marker gassed up, pull the trigger slowly and if you hear hissing before the actual shot gose off walla!!!!! Your marker is pre-firing.

If this so is the problem.......
your spacer is to long if you have a .220 you want to move down to a ..215 or keep going down a spacer until the pre-firing stops...... there is only these sizes of spacers .215 .220 .225 .230 .235 .240 .245

Sorry about the mess up
The saying is if it leaks(pre-fire) go weak
if it sticks (bolt stick) go strong

Thanks for pointing that out butterfingers....

Saul Ramirez
Airgun Designs
E-mag Tech.
Production Manager

[Butterfingers]

Wait a sec... Youre supposed to go up? I thought it was down. Smaller spacers fix leaking down the barrel? At least Thats what Jeff Schreiber told me. I had the same problem with my Retro Mag a year back, hissing before firing. I had to shave my spacer down to .210 to make it stop. Hmm conflicting Tech info...

[Russ]

Wheelman,

One other thing to consider is once you break/chop ONE ball, you really need to stop shooting and clean out your gun. I have personally NEVER been able to "shoot through" a chop, and even shooting through a barrel break just doesn't work for me.

[Wheelman]

Thanx guys. I think it could be a combiation of the fragile paint and the ONE ball break that is doing it. I don't usually have trouble shooting through a barrel break but when it's in the breach it's a pain in the...well you know. and of course the downside to a mag- once you pull the barrell out there is nothinhing to stop the balls from rolling right out the front. Also I do get a slight hiss before I pull the trigger (only since I put the double trigger on it) and I asked a question about it a while ago and the general consenus I got was it wouldn't hurt anything. Although when I do look back on it it only happened to me on one side of the bunker and I am wondering if I may have had the gun turned just enough to slow my feed, I'll look into it newt time I play.

[jimmyjobob]

hmm...

well i agree with russman. its very hard if not impossible to shoot through a break. especially in a classic since you already have paint in the feed tube. paint in the tube, balls stick to the side, dont feed you get the idea.....

the hiss means you may be shortstroking but not completely your fault. switch to a longer spacer.

secondly. just something to think about but. if your hopper is very low, as in only a couple in the revvy, blowback can cause the ball to bobble. balls bobble, dont feed and chop.

my first instict would be paint. there is ALOT of paint i cant shoot through a mag. i dont care what bore barrel i have. just too brittle.

[covadsucks]

I tried Proball, RPS Premium, Marbs (same), and Anarchy, I've been breaking more paint since I first bought my mag and shot the marker with a long nose foamie less bolt. I now use an ANS Venturi bolt, and since it's winter here in NorCal, I can't shoot any paint through my Mag. I've gone back to an AGD Foamy bolt only to have the same problem. Even my Low Pressure markers are breaking paint. I am about to get a slingshot and use that as I can't have my squeegee wear more paint than the opposing team.