Loss of trigger return

[dreadpirate]

The equipment: RT custom with ULE vertical feed body, intelliframe grip, double trigger, and lvl 10 x-bolt, using a 4500# tank with a fixed 850# regulator.

Problem: when rapid firing (>5 bps), the trigger often seems to lose whatever connection it has with the bolt system, and no longer gives any resistance whatsoever. If the tank is unscrewed, and the pressure vented, the mechanism 'clicks' back into place and functions normally until the above problem occurs again.

I suspect, but are not certain, that perhaps I need to oil the gun more often during play? I normally put three or four drops in the adaptor prior to each game, and at first, the gun seems to work fine, until about two hours into the day, when the above problem starts creeping up. Any suggestions?

-Dread Pirate from CT

[Arstron]

It could be oil, but I belive the problem lies with a screw that is to tight. If either the front frame screw or field strip screw is to tight, you will experience bolt stick.

[classicmag68]

i think i might have the same problem. mine will shoot fine then the trigger would go dead and i would just push it out and pull the trigger again and it would shoot. but im running a classic mag on co2 ( but not anymore) i just thought it was cause it was sraight co2 with no exp chamber or extra regulator. but if its just screws too tight how do you know how tight to make it?

[Dark Frost17]

how many shims to u have in the lvl 10?

[athomas]

You are getting bolt stick. I'm assuming you aren't using the ULT since you didn't mention it.

The bolt stick you are experiencing is preventing the bolt from fully resetting. Try using a slightly larger carrier. Make sure you test your carrier sizes without any shims installed since they can affect any leaking you may hear.

[dreadpirate]

Oops, yes, I have the ULT, as well as the magnetic ball detent. Think i forgot to mention those. I shall have to try both suggestions, see what happens. I noticed while shooting yesterday that indeed, i never had the problem in any game I played immediately after adding oil again, then the second game, it would start again. I also noticed that in some, but not all cases, I could pull the trigger back out and it would reseat, but that was the exception, not the rule, and occurred when I was approaching the 1000 psi point on my tank, so I suspect those misfires were simply due to insufficient pressure. Also, would inadvertant short-stroking of the trigger cause this? I tend to doubt a too-tight front screw to be the case, since I haven't adjusted anything since I bought the gun, and it only occurs when I'm shooting fast, never on single shots.

You are getting bolt stick. I'm assuming you aren't using the ULT since you didn't mention it.

The bolt stick you are experiencing is preventing the bolt from fully resetting. Try using a slightly larger carrier. Make sure you test your carrier sizes without any shims installed since they can affect any leaking you may hear.

[athomas]

It could be bolt stick issue, a ULT issue, or a combination of both.

During rapid firing, if the bolt is slow resetting due to bolt stick, then you are not getting the benefit of the full time to recharge the front chamber. This could result in bolt stick, short stroking, and/or the ULT sticking. Plain level 10 bolt stick is when the bolt does not reset or fire due to a tight carrier oring. If it is too tight but functional (oiling helps here), then it will function but will limit the time that the sear and trigger are forward, thus decreasing the charge time available increasing the chance of a a short stroke. Bolt stick caused by the ULT is due to having too many shims in the ULT. The timing is off. The ULT pin allows air to seep past the on-off top oring before the bolt is fully reset. If too much air gets into the front chamber too soon, then it will hold the bolt forward and prevent it from resetting.

The easiest to check is the carrier oring. Having to oil constantly to keep it from sticking is generally a carrier that is tight.

If you are even a bit suspect of the ULT, remove a ULT shim and try it. It should work fine with one less shim. You can add it back in later if you find that it is needed.

[dreadpirate]

It could be bolt stick issue, a ULT issue, or a combination of both.

During rapid firing, if the bolt is slow resetting due to bolt stick, then you are not getting the benefit of the full time to recharge the front chamber. This could result in bolt stick, short stroking, and/or the ULT sticking. Plain level 10 bolt stick is when the bolt does not reset or fire due to a tight carrier oring. If it is too tight but functional (oiling helps here), then it will function but will limit the time that the sear and trigger are forward, thus decreasing the charge time available increasing the chance of a a short stroke. Bolt stick caused by the ULT is due to having too many shims in the ULT. The timing is off. The ULT pin allows air to seep past the on-off top oring before the bolt is fully reset. If too much air gets into the front chamber too soon, then it will hold the bolt forward and prevent it from resetting.

The easiest to check is the carrier oring. Having to oil constantly to keep it from sticking is generally a carrier that is tight.

If you are even a bit suspect of the ULT, remove a ULT shim and try it. It should work fine with one less shim. You can add it back in later if you find that it is needed.

Well, it was the ULT... it came with 7 shims installed. Unfortunately, it still sticks at every number of shims down to the point where it begins leaking. Replacing it with a stock RT valve stopped the sticking, but now I shortstroke any time I pull the trigger faster than 9 or 10 bps, despite being sure that my fingers completely leave the trigger each time. Is that normal?