Emag 911!

[shadow462]

I'll try to be as brief as possible. My Emag isn't working, and I'm clueless at the moment.

I've had it for about 3 years. Last season, my battery went bad and I ordered a new one. I charged it once, then I blew my knee out at work. I was forced to take a season off, and so was my Emag. Last week I got my things together for this season. I charged my battery, put the gun together, the board turns on. When I pull the trigger, the counter is registering the shots. The solenoid is not responding. I've been told by a few people that, if left to sit for a long time (like a year), the board can "go dumb." I'm assuming that either this is the problem, or the solenoid has gone bad for some reason. I have a multimeter, I just dont know what and where I need to check to find out where the problem lies. Thanks in advance for your time and attention, I hope to get this thing working for a tournament next weekend. I'd like to show all the little Ion kids what a REAL American paintball company can make, and that ramping doesnt make you a paintball player.

John

EM00365
ULE WL Body
ULE Rail
Kila Detents
Level X
TL63 Trigger (first one ever made, I'm told)
Warp Feed
Smoke Panels
HaloB with a perpetually broken shell... ::sigh::
1.37 Software (flash me, PLEASE)

Freeflow Millenium Autococker
RaceFrame

68/45 Armageddon

[flyingpootang]

John, It dosen't say in your post, but I'm assuming that you are dry firing the marker (no air) If thats the case push the safety to ON and the solenoid should click.

[BigEvil]

- A couple things;

Can you fire the gun in MECH mode?
Will the board remember the settings when you change them?
Check the little oring inside the on/off. If they get real dry or swollen, the on/off pin can stick. Oil is a mag's best friend.
Is the gun registering your trigger pulls in E mode?

If your interested in a flash, hit me up with a PM.

[shadow462]

Flyingpootang- Yes, sir, I'm doing this with no air. Tried the safety in both positions, and no click. The 'click' is what I was referring to when I said the solenoid is not responding, so I think we're talking about the same thing here. Any idea what's wrong, or how I can figure out where the problem starts?

BigEvil
- No air, so I don't KNOW if it will fire in mech, but I assume so as all the mechanical components are clean, oiled, and seem to be flawless. The trouble seems to lie in my grip frame.
- Yes, the board appears to retain settings when I change them.
- Oiled up like a swimsuit model.
- Yes, registering shots on the board in E-mode.

Thank you both for your time and help!!

John

[BigEvil]

Next step is to get some air and see what it does, then let us know.

[athomas]

The solenoid won't click after the first shot without air. There is no force to reset the solenoid plunger. Without movement, there is no click.

You can take the valve off and manually hold the sear down (where it protrudes through for the on-off). By providing the manual reset, you can fire the gun and tell if the solenoid is working.

[flyingpootang]

Flyingpootang- Yes, sir, I'm doing this with no air. Tried the safety in both positions, and no click. The 'click' is what I was referring to when I said the solenoid is not responding, so I think we're talking about the same thing here. Any idea what's wrong, or how I can figure out where the problem starts?

BigEvil
- No air, so I don't KNOW if it will fire in mech, but I assume so as all the mechanical components are clean, oiled, and seem to be flawless. The trouble seems to lie in my grip frame.
- Yes, the board appears to retain settings when I change them.
- Oiled up like a swimsuit model.
- Yes, registering shots on the board in E-mode.

Thank you both for your time and help!!

John

John, first check your solenoid plunger hasn't screwd off and the wires are not pinched to the noid/HES. Remove the grip pannels and inspect it. If you need to take the marker apart make shure to dry fire it in M mode and remove the axle pin before taking it apart. To remove the sear after the halves are seperated remove the C clip on the plunger (right side of the grip).

Another cause can be: 1)check your ground/board mounting screw is snug, 2) HES magnet is not in upside down (if removed recently) and it travels far enough back to activate the HES. The best way is to fire it in M with the marker powered on (Hybrid).

[shadow462]

The solenoid won't click after the first shot without air. There is no force to reset the solenoid plunger. Without movement, there is no click.

You can take the valve off and manually hold the sear down (where it protrudes through for the on-off). By providing the manual reset, you can fire the gun and tell if the solenoid is working

Correct, that's what I did. No response. Thanks for helping, though. Any idea WHY it might not be responding?

UPDATE: On a whim, I popped my Warp Feed on, put in a fresh battery, tested that, and set the jumpers to Emag Intellifeed. I plugged the Emag Intelli-cable in to the warp, pulled the trigger AND... nothing. The Warp reacts when I tap it, and when I push the force-feed button on it, and I have jumpers in the middle and bottom positions (for Emag intelli). I'm surmising that this means the problem is on the board, or that I'm a moron and am missing something obvious. Thanks for your continuing assistance!!

John

PS: Going to try to get an air fill this afternoon, but I live pretty far from any shop or field. Also depends if my pregnant better half is in the kind of mood to let me go on a paintball adventure, as she's pretty sick of hearing about this tournament already.

[BigEvil]

Is your magnet out too far away from the HES? (OR too close?)

[shadow462]

John, first check your solenoid plunger hasn't screwd off and the wires are not pinched to the noid/HES. Remove the grip pannels and inspect it. If you need to take the marker apart make shure to dry fire it in M mode and remove the axle pin before taking it apart. To remove the sear after the halves are seperated remove the C clip on the plunger (right side of the grip).

Another cause can be: 1)check your ground/board mounting screw is snug, 2) HES magnet is not in upside down (if removed recently) and it travels far enough back to activate the HES. The best way is to fire it in M with the marker powered on (Hybrid).

OK. Took the gun apart all the way down. Solenoid plunger is secure, wires seem to be fine to Solenoid and HES. Mounting screw is as tight as it's gonna get. HES magnet can't be upside down, because it's glued in to the trigger (I have a TL63 Blade).

Is your magnet out too far away from the HES? (OR too close?)

Non-adjustable due to my trigger.

[flyingpootang]

John, did you try it in Hybrid (power on and in M mode)? You might want to try remove the HES cover and see of the wires are intact and no gunk is in side. If you have a multi meter i can tell you what wire dose what. (Red) constant voltage even when fired, (Yellow) signal wire voltage when your finger are off the trigger and goes to ground when the trigger is pulled, (Black) ground wire at all times check continuity against the board mounting screw. This will let you know if your board is working or not.

Another thing to try take out your HES and use both sides of any magnet to see if your solenoid will click. MAKE SHURE THE PLUNGER IS NOT SEATED IN THE HOUSING LIFT IT UP SLIGHTLY....

[shadow462]

John, did you try it in Hybrid (power on and in M mode)? You might want to try remove the HES cover and see of the wires are intact and no gunk is in side. If you have a multi meter i can tell you what wire dose what. (Red) constant voltage even when fired, (Yellow) signal wire voltage when your finger are off the trigger and goes to ground when the trigger is pulled, (Black) ground wire at all times check continuity against the board mounting screw. This will let you know if your board is working or not.

Another thing to try take out your HES and use both sides of any magnet to see if your solenoid will click. MAKE SHURE THE PLUNGER IS NOT SEATED IN THE HOUSING LIFT IT UP SLIGHTLY....

- Tried it in hybrid, same issue.
-Removed HES cover, all is squeaky clean.
-Red wire giving me about 4.9v, same with yellow when not pulling trigger, then to 0 with trigger pulled.
- With battery disconnected, per directions with my multimeter, placed black contact to ground screw and red contact to black HES wire. Multimeter beeps and reads "Shrt" which according to manual means the circuit resistance is less them 50ohms (circuit has low ohmage or is shorted).
- Tried a spare AGD magnet, after taking HES out. Both sides restuled in no reaction from the solenoid, which I made sure was not fully seated.

I feel like this is a weird riddle game where I know the answer and you guys are trying to guess it... but the trick is... I really don't know.

Thanks again!!

[flyingpootang]

Since you verified the HES and board is working correctly by having the yellow (signal wire) is going to ground, I think the next step is to verify the soleinoid. You need to make jumper wires and a 5 volt power source (2) 3volt lithium camera batteries in series should work. Jump the noid and see if it clicks. Again make shure the noid is not seated. Be shure to post here no matter what happens to see what cured it or not. Good Luck....

[shadow462]

Since you verified the HES and board is working correctly by having the yellow (signal wire) is going to ground, I think the next step is to verify the soleinoid. You need to make jumper wires and a 5 volt power source (2) 3volt lithium camera batteries in series should work. Jump the noid and see if it clicks. Again make shure the noid is not seated. Be shure to post here no matter what happens to see what cured it or not. Good Luck....

... it clicked. A clear, resounding click. Now I'm totally confused.

[flyingpootang]

Ok now we verified the noid and board. All that is left is the battery. Have you checked the voltage on a full charged battery (I assume you did this already)? It should be 16.8volts. Check the positive and ground for a clean/good connection. (2) 9volts in series should be able to work the board and noid. You could try and use the jumper wires and see what happens or if you know anyone with a good AGD battery try and swap yours with it. If it works then your battery is cooked. Let me know what happens......