I have a mag with a classic valve and level 10. When i gas it up and then pull the trigger the bolt goes foward about 1/4 of the way and then stops and it proceeds to leak out of the barrel. Im using the long spring from the LX kit and 2 shims, i thought i read somewhere that the shims might be causing this? Also does anyone have that LX install video link?
Bolt stick? need your help
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The person i bought the LX off of didnt include that spring. Well i took both of my shims out and switched it to the shortest spring. I gas it up, fire it, and the bolt goes foward and gets stuck and leaking down the barrel starts. And it wont return, i have to degas it and manually push it back with my finger pretty hard. Could the carrier im using be the problem?
(Makes his way over to the LX problems thread)
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Well i just dropped a random one it, so that might be it. Which one should i use though, they all look almost exaclty the same, ahhhhhhh!!! Do i just have to judge it by eye and try to find the biggest one?
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Yeah, possibly too small of a carrier. Use the same o-ring for each carrier as you're testing them out. Also, try the long spring with no shims.
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very hard to judge by sight, very hard, notice the lines and the dots, each dot indicates .5 and each line indicates 1. So if you have the carrier with two lines and one dot that carrier is the 2.5 and if it is getting stuck then try the 3 carrier (3 lines no dots) you sometimes have to look hard for the dots, but they should be above the line
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Ya i just took a look at that diagram you posted, thanks a bunch. Im about to test a 2.5. I think i had the smallest one in before when it was sticking bad
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Ok, with the 2.5, long spring, no shims, i got 1 good cycle out of it. Then it started leaking down the barrel, do i got bigger or smaller now?
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smaller, 2.0Originally posted by person1Ok, with the 2.5, long spring, no shims, i got 1 good cycle out of it. Then it started leaking down the barrel, do i got bigger or smaller now?
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and make sure the o-ring is oiled, and (again) use the same o-ring on each test.Originally posted by back2integritysmaller, 2.0
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In general, its said that the first time you tune a LVL 10 you shouldn't use shims until you've found the right carrier. That way each time it leaks, you know it is the carrier and not the shims causing it. Then, once you have the right carrier, you experiment with shims.Originally posted by paintman1142put two shims in too, it changes how far the bolt has to go before venting
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Tried the 2 and same thing, one cycle and severe bolt stick, the bolt it literraly stuck inside my ULE and the valve it out and everything. Could the long spring be causing the bolt stick? Well after i get this bolt out im going to try the 1.5
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