Bolt Stick headache

[jc127]

Hello,

I recently dug my 68 automag out of the closet and started upgrading it. The only original parts left on the gun are the rail, sear and sear pivot pin.

Heres my setup:

• ULE Body
• ULE Trigger Frame
• ULE on/off valve
• X-valve w/ lvl 10
• high pressure cross fire tank

I've got the largest carrier installed that doesn't leak, and I have been careful to use the same o-ring each time i change carriers. I have the stock (gold) spring installed as I can't get the gun to chrono under 300 with the red or long spring. I have two shims in the power tube (the most I get without leakage), and 4 shims in the on/off assembly (it starts to shoot double with 5). My problem is the bolt sticks and I can't seem to get it fixed. The gun will shoot perfectly for a while (maybe 30-40 shots) then the bolt sticks. I have it well lubed also. When the bolt sticks bleeding the air via the asa and recharging seems to recock the gun, but it sticks soon after. Somtimes just waiting a few minutes and it shoots again. However this isn't much fun during a game . I have also noticed that the gun leaks down the power tube when the tirgger is held. Any tips or suggestions would be great.

[kingpen509]

Well I have also had this problem and usually it comes down to the tension in the two bolts holding the trigger frame on, the thumb screw and the other one. Loosen them up or tighten them down accordingly. If done correctly it should fix your prob. I read somewhere that AGD advises finger tightening and then a quarter turn for both bolts.

I hope it helps!~

[dreadpirate]

Hello,

I recently dug my 68 automag out of the closet and started upgrading it. The only original parts left on the gun are the rail, sear and sear pivot pin.

Heres my setup:

• ULE Body
• ULE Trigger Frame
• ULE on/off valve
• X-valve w/ lvl 10
• high pressure cross fire tank

I've got the largest carrier installed that doesn't leak, and I have been careful to use the same o-ring each time i change carriers. I have the stock (gold) spring installed as I can't get the gun to chrono under 300 with the red or long spring. I have two shims in the power tube (the most I get without leakage), and 4 shims in the on/off assembly (it starts to shoot double with 5). My problem is the bolt sticks and I can't seem to get it fixed. The gun will shoot perfectly for a while (maybe 30-40 shots) then the bolt sticks. I have it well lubed also. When the bolt sticks bleeding the air via the asa and recharging seems to recock the gun, but it sticks soon after. Somtimes just waiting a few minutes and it shoots again. However this isn't much fun during a game . I have also noticed that the gun leaks down the power tube when the tirgger is held. Any tips or suggestions would be great.

I have the exact same issue with the exact same setup, crossfire tank included. Thanks for the tip, I'll have to try it.

[jc127]

I have the exact same issue with the exact same setup, crossfire tank included. Thanks for the tip, I'll have to try it.

I will try it too, let me know if it solves your problem. I've read on the forum that bolt stick might be due to the rail's slot(the zig shaped slot, that the locking pin on the bolt seats into) being worn. Has anyone had this cause their bolt to stick? Mine rail rail is pretty old and worn.

[Coralis]

you might also try backing out the ball detent some too .... I have heard that sometimes the can be screwed in to far and hang up the bolt and its easy to check

[jc127]

you might also try backing out the ball detent some too .... I have heard that sometimes the can be screwed in to far and hang up the bolt and its easy to check

I will give that a try also, thanks.

[dreadpirate]

Hello,

I recently dug my 68 automag out of the closet and started upgrading it. The only original parts left on the gun are the rail, sear and sear pivot pin.

Heres my setup:

• ULE Body
• ULE Trigger Frame
• ULE on/off valve
• X-valve w/ lvl 10
• high pressure cross fire tank

I've got the largest carrier installed that doesn't leak, and I have been careful to use the same o-ring each time i change carriers. I have the stock (gold) spring installed as I can't get the gun to chrono under 300 with the red or long spring. I have two shims in the power tube (the most I get without leakage), and 4 shims in the on/off assembly (it starts to shoot double with 5). My problem is the bolt sticks and I can't seem to get it fixed. The gun will shoot perfectly for a while (maybe 30-40 shots) then the bolt sticks. I have it well lubed also. When the bolt sticks bleeding the air via the asa and recharging seems to recock the gun, but it sticks soon after. Somtimes just waiting a few minutes and it shoots again. However this isn't much fun during a game . I have also noticed that the gun leaks down the power tube when the tirgger is held. Any tips or suggestions would be great.

Ok, so I took the gun to the local paintgun shop which has an uncertified automag tech, since they fired the certified one for incompetence. In about 15 minutes, he managed to determine that the problem was the ULE on/off valve. Mine had 7 shims installed, as recieved from the factory, which is not even supposed to be possible. Throwing in a standard RT valve fixed the issue, though now I have a much more stiff pull. Apparently it is a fairly common problem with the ULE on/off. I am still debating whether or not I want to buy a new on/off to try again.

[flyingpootang]

To start off the L10 shims are used to reset the bolt if it sences a ball partially seated. The shims in the ULT are used to lighten the trigger. Tune the ULT first then the L10 bolt. Note the L10 and ULT shims are different thickness, but can be mixed to fine tune your L10 or ULT.

To tune your ULT start with 2 shims and fire the marker. Add 1 shim at a time until it goes full auto, then remove 1 shim.

To tune your L10 use no shims and place a squegee about 1/4" in front of the bolt and fire it. The bolt should stay forwad and not reset. Add 1 shim at a time and fire it agian with the squegee 1/4" in fornt of the bolt until it resets.

[jc127]

I tried taking the ULE on/off out of the equation, didnt seem to make any difference. Right now i have it in with 4 shims, with 5 its started to go full auto. I'm going to try tighting the bolts as recommended.

[flyingpootang]

I tried taking the ULE on/off out of the equation, didnt seem to make any difference. Right now i have it in with 4 shims, with 5 its started to go full auto. I'm going to try tighting the bolts as recommended.

You REMOVE 1 shim at a time until its one shot one pull...

[jc127]

You REMOVE 1 shim at a time until its one shot one pull...

yeah I know... thats why i said I have 4 in now, when 5 caused it to full auto....

[dreadpirate]

To start off the L10 shims are used to reset the bolt if it sences a ball partially seated. The shims in the ULT are used to lighten the trigger. Tune the ULT first then the L10 bolt. Note the L10 and ULT shims are different thickness, but can be mixed to fine tune your L10 or ULT.

To tune your ULT start with 2 shims and fire the marker. Add 1 shim at a time until it goes full auto, then remove 1 shim.

To tune your L10 use no shims and place a squegee about 1/4" in front of the bolt and fire it. The bolt should stay forwad and not reset. Add 1 shim at a time and fire it agian with the squegee 1/4" in fornt of the bolt until it resets.

So, what do I do if the ULT came with 7 shims already installed, not going full auto and with 2, it hisses all over, and any non-leaking combination inbetween, still exhibits stick? And is it normal for a stock RT on/off to shortstroke any time I pull the trigger faster than 9 or 10 bps?

[Coralis]

no its not normal .... not sure whats going on there but its not normal .

[flyingpootang]

I don't know how you got 7 shims in your ULT. The maximum is 5, but as long as it dosen't go full auto it's all good.

From your post it seems your are confusing the ULT and Level 10 bolt

Bolt stick ie not restting is cured as described by tunning the L10.

The ULT is shimmed to give you the lighest trigger by adding shims, but if to many are installed it will go full auto.

Now your saying it's sticking. If you mean your bolt is not restting see tunning the L10. If your trigger is not returnning then oil the crap out of your ULT (also known as on/off assy by Level 7 regulators)

[flyingpootang]

Short stroking is possible on a RT on/off. To avoid this raise the output to 900-950 and find a sweet spot on your trigger when your finger position will cause the trigger to bounce. The reason why most judges tried to band the RT's from being allowed in tourneys. The higher the outpot of your tank he more reactivity....