I've lost it, Xvalve/L10 help please!

[insayne]

I know this is a dead horse, and I'm about to kick the snot out of it...but there's a twist.

I just recently came back to the paintball scene and purchased what I thought was a decent mag setup:
ULE frame, ULT Trigger, Level 10 bolt, X Valve

My previous mag, which I still own and works flawlessly, is a Level 7 bolt, Hurricane Labs Valve. I just heard a lot of great things about the level 10, x-valve, and to be honest I think the ULE's look very nice, so I got one.

Well, I bought this 'new' mag used from a reputable seller...but he didn't send me ANY replacement parts.
As soon as I gased it up, it leaked down the barrel. I pulled the trigger, the leak stopped. Pulled trigger again, no leak. As soon as I fired off 5 more shots, it leaked again and then the trigger completely stopped responding for about 5-10 seconds until I heard "click" as the sear came back and then the whole chaotic cycle resumed.
I immediately did the standard automag treatment: I oiled it. The leak got a little better, but it still persisted complete with the lost trigger every now and then.

Ok, so I came here seeking solutions and found them: change carriers, replace carrier o-rings, try adding/removing shims, etc.
Great, "so why this thread?" you may ask. I'll tell you:
How in God's name do I get to this fabled "carrier" and/or "shim"??
I took the valve out and can identify the following: Bolt, foamy, and the big metal thing that the bolt sat on which is directly attached to the valve. << apparently, via the diagram, these elusive carriers and shims reside somewhere within that large metal object and/or under the bolt. However, at no point did I see any object that remotely resembled the carrier listed in the diagrams (or ANY of those small parts), except for maybe the tip of the big metal object, which refused to move.
I tugged and tugged at the valve to see if maybe it came apart easily like my older mag's (it just comes apart in to several pieces, just like the diagram) but I cannot for the life of me get anywhere on this thing, and I'm too nervous to try and reach for the black and decker just yet. I understand the diagrams, but reading a map doesn't help if you can't start your car in the first place...
I've searched AGD's site and here for an idiot's "how to take apart my level 10 and x-valve from square 1" and can't find one.

I'm sure this sounds completely stupid, and I apologize in advance. But it's been about 5 years since I dismantled a mag, and this new one's got me up in arms


So, could someone please direct me to or provide me with a quick 'hey dufus, here's how you take the whole setup apart to fix your issue, suggested tools listed" thread?

Also, I can order replacement rings in a package from AGD, but I noticed the carriers are ordered one at a time, is there any place that I can order a whole kit with both rings and all carrier sizes?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[flyingpootang]

To start off if you slide the bolt off the on/of top is a 3/8" wrench to remove it conter clockwise. Under that there will be the shims (some time there's none), then the carrier, and last a white washer.

If your marker leaks down the barrel push on it with a squigee. If the sound goes away use the next tightest carrier while still using the same carrier o-ring (white o-ring) When you have a new valve it is normal for it to leak after breaking in the carrier o-ring. It's just the o-ring breaking in.

To tune the L10 bolt start with no shims and place a squigee about 1/4" away from the bolt and fire it. If the bolt resets then the bolt is tuned. If it sticks forward and dosent reset or resets slowly then add 1 shim at a time until the bolt resets by itself.

To tune the ULT start with 2 shims and fire the marker if it fires normaly add 1 shim at a time until uit goes full auto Max is 5 shims. When this occurs remove 1 shim and your ULT is now tuned.

The L10 shims are thicker than the ULT's, but they can be mixed to fine tune your marker. Also the Xvalves use a claer bumper. They are thinner than the L5/7 blue bumpers (which should not be used). They wear slightly quicker, but by super gluing them to the reg will make them last longer. The different size bolt springs are also used for tunning your bolt on how soft they hit the paint, but on the flip side they require more pressure to unseat your bolt from the valve which gives you a higher velocity. Welcome back to Mags and AO