I quit paintball back in 99 and had a stock mag with a 10 inch dye stainless barrel that dominated everything i played against. My ten year old son has got me playing again so what do i do? i go buy a mag off ebay and set out to destroy. Problem is i now have a 14 inch dye aluminum barrel. Even when chrono'd at 285 i have to arc my longer shots and i am not getting much accuracy. My friends have tippmans and spyders with stock barrels and a few have jj ceramic barrels and they all shoot waaayyyyyy more accurate than mine. I just bought a 12 inch jj ceramic, will that help me much? I have a new level 10 kit in the gun. Is it just me or are aluminum barrels junk.
Help my mag
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It could be 3 factors (or more) : 1. You have a poor paint to barrel match with the dye barrel you are using. 2. You are using CO2, which could lead to erratic velocities 3. You need to rebuild your valve, because your reg seat might need to be replaced (could lead to erratic velocities), and it's a good idea to rebuild it anyway, if you don't know the personal history of it.Originally posted by wvdadI quit paintball back in 99 and had a stock mag with a 10 inch dye stainless barrel that dominated everything i played against. My ten year old son has got me playing again so what do i do? i go buy a mag off ebay and set out to destroy. Problem is i now have a 14 inch dye aluminum barrel. Even when chrono'd at 285 i have to arc my longer shots and i am not getting much accuracy. My friends have tippmans and spyders with stock barrels and a few have jj ceramic barrels and they all shoot waaayyyyyy more accurate than mine. I just bought a 12 inch jj ceramic, will that help me much? I have a new level 10 kit in the gun. Is it just me or are aluminum barrels junk.
I use a 12 inch J&J Ceramic Barrel, and I find that it does ok over a decent variety of paint, as far as the paint to barrel match is concerned.
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