ULE trigger help needed

[Aslan]

help?





Brad Nestle tells me that 5 shims is the maximum you can use with a ULT...

What should I do? Will AGD touch it once the valve is milled? Would somebody like Tunaman or the MagSmith be an option? I hate to buy another ULT...I'd rather pay the same amount to get this one to work than pay for another ULT, then have that one possibly not work.

All I can think of is to get the pin shaved...but how would I do that? With a dremmel? I'd probably end up flinging the thing off into nowhere and cutting my fingernail off...

As for the cocker, I've go t new hose on the way, I'll see how that goes, if it slips off...then I'll get the hats. I'm hoping I can just adjust the IVG once I can get the hoses to stay on for more than 6 seconds.

[Arstron]

when I had my dragun mag frame on a classsic rail, I ran 7 shims in my ult. classic rails need more shims then a rt rail though. I can't help but wonder if the pin is bent. you might try removing the ult and see how freely the pin will move in and out. also the stock on/off should still work if you have a parts kit. just find the white oring that fits snugly inside the on/off hole and fits around the oring at the en of the on/off pin. place the bigger one in the hole and then slide in the stock on/off and it should work. don't forget the oil though.

[Aslan]

when I had my dragun mag frame on a classsic rail, I ran 7 shims in my ult. classic rails need more shims then a rt rail though. I can't help but wonder if the pin is bent. you might try removing the ult and see how freely the pin will move in and out. also the stock on/off should still work if you have a parts kit. just find the white oring that fits snugly inside the on/off hole and fits around the oring at the en of the on/off pin. place the bigger one in the hole and then slide in the stock on/off and it should work. don't forget the oil though.

So what you're saying is, with a classic rail I could need to use more than 6?

The pin does not move smoothly. Not as smooth as the stock one. It doesn't get stuck or anything...just doesn't move smoothly.

As a last resort, I guess I could try to put the o-ring in there...I'd really like to get it to work with the ULT though...

I'll try to add a Level 10 shim...that will bring the total to 8 since the level 10 shim is twice as large. Do you really think it could take more than 8? If that doesn't work, I'll take the pin out and see if it's bent.

[Arstron]

More then 8, I dought it, it sounds like there is a problem somewhere else to be honest with you. I would try the stock on/off in it and see if it shoots then. If it doesnt shoot then, then you know somthing is wrong some where else.

[back2integrity]

Well, I used that ULT in one of my guns with no problems, so I doubt it is the ULT. But if the stock on/off works and you think it is the ULT giving you fits (and not your valve), I can send you a different one. But it does sound like, if it isn't the valve, maybe the pin got bent a little while you were changing out shims or trying to shove it in your drilled RT valve. Let me know what you think and I can have another one sent out Monday if needed.

[Aslan]

Update One

Okay, I tried to add a Level 10 shim and the On/Off wouldn't fit far enough into the valve to allow the valve to fit in the Minimag body.

I thought I should post a pic of what I'm looking at:


What I noticed was that the pin was in opposite in one on/of versus the other. I'm sure this is normal...but I just noticed it.

Needless to say, taking out a shim and adding the Level 10 shim (essentially 7 shims) didn't work.

Here are some more pics:




I took all but 4 shims out, I figure at this point it can't be a shim issue. I tried to turn the velocity all the way up, as far as it would go...nothing happened...no difference.

[Aslan]

Update Two

I took a look at the pin, to see if it was bent...



It doesn't appear to be. I wanted to take it all the way out but couldn't figure out how. Push from the bottom? Push from the top? I didn't want to make the wrong choice then actually bend the heck out of it trying.

[Aslan]

Update 3

After reading Arston and B2I's posts, the first question that needs to be solved is does the valve work.

I know it did before the milling with the stock on/off. I didn't chrono it, but I know it fired flawlessly and no leaks...not even a faint one (like my 68 Classic).

I tried to add the o-ring and use the stock on/off in the milled valve, but I couldn't figure out which o-ring you meant. There's the extra one from the ULT or an o-ring the same size as the stock bottom o-ring (I didn't have an extra, but I did have a Classic Valve on/off o-ring...see the picture below:


From the picture you can't tell that the o-ring on the left (ULT) is smaller than the two on the right. The bottom one on the right is the spare Classic on/off o-ring.

I tried both ways, but both times the on/off would not go far enough in.

Back to square one it appears...hopefully the photos at least show you what I'm looking at.

[Beemer]

See this

O-ring 22 should fit snug into number 23. Do you have 23? Or is it in the valve?
22 can also be a quad o-ring.



Thanks to Nate from here. http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...=exploded+view

[Beemer]

I took a look at the pin, to see if it was bent...



It doesn't appear to be. I wanted to take it all the way out but couldn't figure out how. Push from the bottom? Push from the top? I didn't want to make the wrong choice then actually bend the heck out of it trying.

From this pic just pull the pin out. It should not be stuck. Also it Appears from this pic that the top of that pin is messed up. It should be smooth and flat.

[nathanjones008]

does trigger pull kit work for adapt well w/ xvalve?

The level 10 is tuned for the valve and the valve with Level 10 worked fine before I sent the valve out for milling.

Now I' a bit unclear whether I should try adding shims or taking them away... There are two shims on the ULT On/Off presently. The person that sold it to pmd this to me:

How many shims do you have in there? Sometimes my ULT will do that if I don't have enough shims in because the on/off pin is "Too long." Putting shims in makes the on/off pin "shorter."

So, the summary of what has been said by this guy and dayspring is that it's probably that the pin is too long and I need more shims. It appears that Mag Guy thinks I need less.

I'll try to add a shim tonight and see what happens...I just wanted to post that there are two shims in the ULT presently in case that has any bearing on your recommendations.

Thanks.

i know this is off the subject a little but does a trigger pull adapt well with a xvlave and will it make that much of a difference in my gun to pay 47.00? thank you.