Brilliant! Modded MSV-2 theory

[the mag guy]

Ok so I've read up on pneumags and I am in the process of installing mine. I'm using the MSV-1 and I know some people are usinga msv2 that they cut the "trigger" arm in half to fit it in the gun.

What if right where the trigger arm touched the valve you installed a trigger stop?
this way you could make the trigger pull even smaller and keep the same lightness!!!

I really think this would work. I also have an idea to keep the trigger stop from depressing too the stem too far.

two options here:

1. Install another longer trigger stop on the trigger arm to hit the main body of the msv-2 so that one stop is pushing the valve and the other is keeping it from pushing too far.

2. the other more risky option would be to put the second stop actually on the msv-2. I dont think this way would be too smart b/c i dont know how thich the walls of the msv are and I definatley wouldnt want to punch through one.

I dont know how to post images that are not links if someone could tell me I could draw these up in paint. I cant do links either b/c i have the free geocities and they only allow 5mb transfer limit an hour. HOW LAME!!!

let me knwo what you think people

[SpitFire1299]

https://www.imageshack.us

https://www.photobucket.com

I want to see!

[BigEvil]

How about an msv2a with the roller on the lever? That could be interesting.

** at 100 psi, it says the force to operate the valve is 2oz, and at 40psi 1oz!.

[the mag guy]

aight i'll get to work and see what i can do. they will be up in an hour or so hopefully. i have to register at photobucket

[BigEvil]

2. the other more risky option would be to put the second stop actually on the msv-2. I dont think this way would be too smart b/c i dont know how thich the walls of the msv are and I definatley wouldnt want to punch through one.

Even if you punch through it, you could just put some thread locker on the set screw to seal it up. But you probably dont have to worry about it, that little brass valve has thick walls.

[the mag guy]

here is the theory


now tuning would be simple.
Mod the arm if you want to this will not be included in my tuning.


With the gun powered up and the pneumatics (atleast the msv) OUTSIDE the gun:


1. Lightly push the arm till it touches the stem BUT DOES NOT ACTIVATE IT.

2. screw stop #1 until it is flush with the body of the msv. you should be able to pull/push on the arm now without activating the valve.

3. while holding the arm against the body, screw stop # 2 until the valve activates. I dont know the length that the stem can be actuated until it stops or damage is incurred because this is still a theory. I'm goin to guestimate and say put it maybe an extra 1/8 of a turn in at the absolute most. you want to find the distance it takes to fully open the valve. Im sure its not all the way back, but it could possibly be. Just turn a little bit and try rapid firing. if youre getting drop off its because the msv isnt getting to open all the way. Just keep repeapting this process until you get no drop off, that should give you the maximum amount of air flow to your mpa-3.

[the mag guy]

[the mag guy]

dang it i mispelled fulsh, i it plush but i meant flush

I know that it can be done with just one trigger stop, but heres the reasoning:
1. I didnt want to push the stem all the back
2. i wanted the opening of the valve to start sooner than without a stop.

[Pneumagger]

Ok so I've read up on pneumags and I am in the process of installing mine. I'm using the MSV-1 and I know some people are usinga msv2 that they cut the "trigger" arm in half to fit it in the gun.

What if right where the trigger arm touched the valve you installed a trigger stop?
this way you could make the trigger pull even smaller and keep the same lightness!!!

I really think this would work. I also have an idea to keep the trigger stop from depressing too the stem too far.

two options here:

1. Install another longer trigger stop on the trigger arm to hit the main body of the msv-2 so that one stop is pushing the valve and the other is keeping it from pushing too far.

2. the other more risky option would be to put the second stop actually on the msv-2. I dont think this way would be too smart b/c i dont know how thich the walls of the msv are and I definatley wouldnt want to punch through one.

I dont know how to post images that are not links if someone could tell me I could draw these up in paint. I cant do links either b/c i have the free geocities and they only allow 5mb transfer limit an hour. HOW LAME!!!

let me knwo what you think people

yes, there is quite abit of material for a 4-40 set screw to sit in. But I have an idea...

why dont you just put a trigger stop on the actual trigger...where it belongs. Then you could also put a set screw right where the trigger rod hits the trigger so you could adjust the pre-travel of the 3way. Then all of this could be externally user adjustable.

Shorter distance to actuation...a shorter post travel. This is what I've been doing. I personally like the slightly longer pull whn it hits the rythem.

How about an msv2a with the roller on the lever? That could be interesting.

** at 100 psi, it says the force to operate the valve is 2oz, and at 40psi 1oz!.

Now this is the force at the end of the leverage arms. To get them into a frame, it is real convenient to chop the arms in half. Only giving about 3x leverage on what is essentially a modified MSV-1. You dont want to make it too light because you still have to return the trigger quickly. This is what I do and it produces a 35 gram mid length trigger pull when done well. Isn't that light enouh people? This is DM6 light!!!

[Pneumagger]

dang it i mispelled fulsh, i it plush but i meant flush

I know that it can be done with just one trigger stop, but heres the reasoning:
1. I didnt want to push the stem all the back
2. i wanted the opening of the valve to start sooner than without a stop.

just food for thought...
The MSV-2, even with the increased pull distance using the leverage arm, still has a "seal break" distance of about <1mm on the trigger rod. To reliably actuate the 3way you need about 1mm - 2mm for good quick flow. Setting the trigger pull for about .125" gives the trigger a sweet rythem when firing quickly.

If I ever get my marker from the guy I sent to anodize (I'm getting nervous ) I'll show you.