most of the air flow in an xvalve does not pass through the ULT small oring top. In a classic it would have to.
20 bps classic valve
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wow. you know, there are those that dis AGD and say the Mag is dead, but show me another mechanical marker with a 10+ year old valve that can do 20 bps.My Trader Feedback
It was the only tournament I've been to where they have more cases of beer than paint. - gimp
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I thought all air still passed through the on/off even in the RT style valves, but it slam filled with unregulated air hence the reactive. Please correct me if I'm wrong.most of the air flow in an xvalve does not pass through the ULT small oring top. In a classic it would have to.
The tippmann valve design hasn't changed in at least 15+ years, just the packaging for the different markers it goes in. Same goes for the cocker and spyders and clones. The limiting factor was, most of us couldn't pull off 20+ with our fingers. The other limiting factors have been the feed systems, electronics, industry safty limits, and for the electro markers the phneumatic solenoids.but show me another mechanical marker with a 10+ year old valve that can do 20 bps.
most people recommend you use a RT style on/off instead of a ULT in the classic. Its smaller diameter than a classic on/off gives a lighter pull, but not too light like a ULT might be in a classic valve.so i can go buy an RT on/off and slam it in my classic valve?
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Great to here you made a video if you cold post it somewhere that would be great, so others could view it . I'm shure it could go higher than 20bps without drop off.Originally posted by afortunaWe Gold waved the video last night. It reached 20BPS. It was as low as 10BPS, but didn't appear to have any problems getting to and staying at 20BPS.
LiveWire: Yes all you need is a RT type on/off to make it work. I used a .712 pin common to the emag RT on/off. Drop Rogue, Tuna, or Logic a email and I'm shure they can hook you up with the on/off and a couple of different size pins.....
Thanks to everyone who has posted in this thread and for all their knowledge on this matter. This is what sets AO apart from the rest....
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I'm going to add a bit to what Asym said.
You are correct.Originally posted by AsymI thought all air still passed through the on/off even in the RT style valves, but it slam filled with unregulated air hence the reactive. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I think the original mag reference was with respect to stability at high rates of fire. However, even some of these other guns have gotten much better at high rates of fire than they had previously been. I don't think the mag stability holds as much superiority as it once did. Its simplicity still reigns though.Originally posted by AsymThe tippmann valve design hasn't changed in at least 15+ years, just the packaging for the different markers it goes in. Same goes for the cocker and spyders and clones. The limiting factor was, most of us couldn't pull off 20+ with our fingers. The other limiting factors have been the feed systems, electronics, industry safty limits, and for the electro markers the phneumatic solenoids.
The RT on-off works quite well in a classic since the top diameter is the same diameter as the classic. This allows the valve to maintain a consistent recharge with the reduced pull force due to the smaller bottom diameter. The problem the ULT has is that the top diameter is smaller as well. The lower pressure or the AIR valve combined with the smaller diameter top means a significantly reduced return force. This is why the ULT suffers in the AIR valve.Originally posted by Asymmost people recommend you use a RT style on/off instead of a ULT in the classic. Its smaller diameter than a classic on/off gives a lighter pull, but not too light like a ULT might be in a classic valve.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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