Problems with my brand new mag :(

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  • sTaLa
    Registered User
    • Mar 2006
    • 333

    #16
    Originally posted by minimag03
    1) What color spring came installed in the marker?

    2) When you lowered your velocity the first day, how low did you lower it?

    3) When the valve is out of the gun, how hard is it to pull the bolt off the tip of the valve? It sounds like it will be a little hard for you to pull it off.

    4) Have you tried oiling thr marker yet?
    1) It was the short one, the same as on the Level 7 bolt.

    2) Maybe I got it a bit to low. I didn't have any clue of the problem so I didn't really tried another velocity... maybe I can fix my problem by getting my velocity higher

    3) There is a small resistance, but nothing really difficult to manage.

    4) Euuh... no. Do I have to put oil in the hole where the bottle goes? And how many drops?
    How often should I put oil in the two holes under the valve and how many drops?

    Originally posted by flyingpootang
    or install a Jtube into you co2 bottle
    I run a remote... that should help a bit no?

    Originally posted by Pneumagger
    you may have to cut a spring by a half coil or so to get it to shoot that low
    I had to do the same on my Spyder cause they tended to shoot to high back in those days... I don't know what's the situation now. But I didn't feel comfortable with a spring that didn't have a flat end so I bought a springs kit. Wouldn't a non-flat ended spring damage my mag?


    Thanks again!

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    • minimag03
      WVU paintball #19
      • Dec 2003
      • 2214

      #17
      You might just need to oil it. Put about 3 drops on oil in the hole that you screw your tank into, then fire the gun without paint about 100 times. Clean your barrel after you are done firing. You will need to put about 2-3 drops in the gun everytime before you play a day on paintball or about every case on paintballs.

      Also, install the red spring onto the bolt and next time you play put your velocity at about 285 fps. you might also want install an extra shim in the level 10. There should be some in the extra parts they gave you. Its done by taking the valve out of the gun, taking off the bolt, and using a a wrench to remove the brass piece off the end of the valve where the bolt was. Once you have it off, drop the shim inside the tube and make sure it lands flat. Reassemble and see if that helps.

      EDIT: Also, I wouldn't suggest cutting any springs yet. I have used mags for years and never had to cut one.
      My AO Feedback

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      • zyklon69
        Registered User
        • Oct 2001
        • 211

        #18
        What's happening is that.. by waiting longer intervals between shots, you're giving time for the liquid co2 that's inside your gun to turn into a gas. That's why when you're trying to rapid fire, you're not giving it time to turn over, therefore you can't rapid fire. Try using a remote system or get a compressed air tank.

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        • minimag03
          WVU paintball #19
          • Dec 2003
          • 2214

          #19
          Originally posted by zyklon69
          What's happening is that.. by waiting longer intervals between shots, you're giving time for the liquid co2 that's inside your gun to turn into a gas. That's why when you're trying to rapid fire, you're not giving it time to turn over, therefore you can't rapid fire. Try using a remote system or get a compressed air tank.
          Originally posted by sTaLa
          I run a remote... that should help a bit no?
          My AO Feedback

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          • sTaLa
            Registered User
            • Mar 2006
            • 333

            #20
            I just disassembled my Level 10 bolt, and it didn't have the "back up washer" (part #1 on the diagramm). Could that explain any of my problems?

            I'm going to try the level 7 bolt that came with the kit... the problem is that I only have the .225 spacer... anyway.

            Comment

            • athomas
              Of course it works-its AGD
              • Jan 2002
              • 8039

              #21
              The lack of a backing washer could cause all sorts of problems.

              When you do get all the parts together, make sure the carrier is properly sized for the oring on the bolt stem.

              The smallest spring will allow you to operate the mag on all velocity ranges. The middle and longer bolt springs allow you to make the bolt softer on paint but will move the operational velocity range higher. ie; The gun may require a higher velocity setting just to work properly. This velocity setting may be higher than the field limit.
              Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

              Comment

              • minimag03
                WVU paintball #19
                • Dec 2003
                • 2214

                #22
                I wouldn't suggest using the smallest spring on velocities above 270. It caused major inconsistancy for me and probably would wear the bolt much faster.
                My AO Feedback

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                • athomas
                  Of course it works-its AGD
                  • Jan 2002
                  • 8039

                  #23
                  The bolt spring doesn't affect the wear on the bolt. The short spring has been used successfully on the mag since the beginning. The short spring will give the best consistency due to it operating above the minimum pressure requirements. As you approach equilibrium of bolt tension vs chamber pressure, then you get inconsistencies. This is what happens when you use the longer springs. Any consistency problems caused by a short spring were no doubt caused by one that was worn or weak.
                  Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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