I have a 68 Classic with a standard valve and possible lvl 10 bolt, could be an anti-chop. (Not too sure really) I took it to a field here where I live and was unable to get it to chrono under 320fps. Of course I tried to adjust the velocity adjustor down but everytime it would lock up the bolt, giving it a leaking air sound (It doesn't leak though) It almost sounded like the bolt was trying to reseat itself. I changed the spring from my brothers whose was shorter than mine and it pretty much did the same thing. Any help please, I am trying to get into a tournament in October and they have strict field speeds of 300fps and 220fps for night games.
68 classic shoots hot
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The first thing you need to do is find out which bolt you have. The easiest way I can think of is taking he bolt off the valve and looking at the brass tip of the power tube. This the brass piece has a slot going thought the center of it (so that you could screw it off with a coin or flathead screw driver) then you have a level 7 bolt. If it doesn't have the slot, and looks like it needs to be removed with wrench then you have the level 10 (the anti-chop bolt). If you have the level 7 then you could have a worn out spring. If you have a level 10 then you might have too small of a spring on the bolt. What color is the spring that you have on the bolt right now? -
I suspect it is a level 10 bolt. Level 7 bolts either work or they don't. The velocity doesn't affect them as much. If it is a level 10 try a shorter spring (gold) first. Then if you are getting bolt stick at lower velocities, go to a larger carrier.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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If he is trying to shoot around 290 there is no use in using the smallest spring. I think you should start with the red spring and try to tune your velocity to around 285. If it will not shoot and still "leaks" in the way you descibed then go with a larger carrier.Comment
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alright, yeah I think it is the lvl 10 then, right now its on the silver spring (the one that you cut and resize) but I did pull my spring off my Lvl 7 Bolt and use it which is shorter and it was still shooting hot can't remember the chrono though, I'll just get the 2 other springs on from AGD and try them out, but if that doesn't work what is the carrier?Comment
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this sounds familiar
I have a 68 micromag (thats what the valve says) the grip says autoresponse patent pending (I gott his used so I dont know if thats the original grip) but it does the same thing (from the day I got it) once i pull the trigger bolt sticks forword and air rushes out, Any idea or how can i tell if its an rt valve?Comment
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If the valve is silver, and says micromag, then it is a classic valve. The bolt stick is most likely caused by a bolt spring that is worn out. Change it. If you are still getting bolt stick, use a longer powertube spacer.Originally posted by metalpnxI have a 68 micromag (thats what the valve says) the grip says autoresponse patent pending (I gott his used so I dont know if thats the original grip) but it does the same thing (from the day I got it) once i pull the trigger bolt sticks forword and air rushes out, Any idea or how can i tell if its an rt valve?Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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yes the valve is silver do i need to replace the triger frame to it says autoresponse on it?Originally posted by athomasIf the valve is silver, and says micromag, then it is a classic valve. The bolt stick is most likely caused by a bolt spring that is worn out. Change it. If you are still getting bolt stick, use a longer powertube spacer.Comment
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The autoresponse trigger frame fires a shot on the pull and one on the release. A lot of fields may not allow it, but any that allow ramping probably won't mind. Autoresponse trigger frames have a stiffer pull as well. A new grip frame would probably be a nice addition to your mag.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment


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