Pneumags for an Idiot

[REDRT]

So I gather this whole pneumag frenzy is just the cats arse. I believe these parts people are using are cocker related? I don't know much about anything other than mags. Honestly I never cared about anything other than mags so I have a delema in this case. I'm ignorant of everything else for the most part. I have no and I mean no idea of the basics it this case. Even looking at pics of others set ups I don't really know what I'm looking at. I was hoping maybe this would be something I could buy, but I seems I might have to build it. That wouldn't be any problem normally, but I'm shooting from the hip on this one. What are the parts needed? Where do you order them from or just canablize a cocker? I'd suppose if I had the parts I'd be able to figure out how to use them. I'm not helpless, just ignorant. There otta be a Pneumag sticky one the basic configuration and parts by name and what they look like. The idea has sparked an interest, but I'm rolling on square wheels here. HELP!

[wjr]

I'll try and explain this the best that I can. I too was once in your position.
There are 3 main parts to a pneumag-

1) 3 way valve
2) Low pressure regulator (LPR)
3) spring retun actuator

Here is how it works: Air that comes from the tank is fed to the low pressure regulator as well as the automag valve. The LPR regulates the air to around 60psi. The air is fed to the 3 way valve. When you push the lever on the valve, it feeds air to the actuator. The actuator is just a peice of brass tube with a piston in it. When air is fed to it, the piston extends, pushing the automag sear thus firing the gun.

The only part of a pneumag that comes from an autococker is the regulator. The actuator comes from a company called Clippard. The part number is MPA-3. Most people now use a 3 way valve from Fabco Air (part number MSV-2). Both of these parts can be ordered from Airsoldier.com

I hope that helped.

[REDRT]

Honestly it does. Thanks wjr. Suprise suprise the parts are pretty cheap. I might just build one. Are people using rt on/offs or ULTs?

[wjr]

Either on-off works fine.

[grEnAlEins]

will it work with a classic on/off? I see no reason why not, but just curious, my ole classic could use a makeover...

[Lenny]

Before ordering any parts, you may want to research what is "the best."

I'm pretty sure MSV-2's will give you the lightest trigger pull, and I've always had good luck with Tickler and Mini Max-Flo LPRs on old 'Cockers. As far as actuator, I have no clue. But I say if you're going to build it, build it with the best parts available.

[REDRT]

will it work with a classic on/off? I see no reason why not, but just curious, my ole classic could use a makeover...

I'm maybe not the one to answer that question, but I'd bet it would work just the same as any other on/off. Only thing I'd question is the entire classic valve doesn't recharge as fast as an RT valve. It is my believe the pneumatic trigger set up should make it pretty easy to shoot faster than before. Maybe faster than the classic valve is capable?

[REDRT]

Before ordering any parts, you may want to research what is "the best."

I'm pretty sure MSV-2's will give you the lightest trigger pull, and I've always had good luck with Tickler and Mini Max-Flo LPRs on old 'Cockers. As far as actuator, I have no clue. But I say if you're going to build it, build it with the best parts available.

That is QFT. I was suprised to see discribtions of the parts say,"popular for pneumags". Easy enough I guess.

[grEnAlEins]

I'd bet it would work just the same as any other on/off. Only thing I'd question is the entire classic valve doesn't recharge as fast as an RT valve. It is my believe the pneumatic trigger set up should make it pretty easy to shoot faster than before. Maybe faster than the classic valve is capable?

It will make it easier to shoot faster. What I was getting at was, will the average dude (e.g. me) be able to outshoot the valve?

[zyklon69]

outshoot 26+ bps? no way.. hehe but yea you'll be able to shoot faster for sure. I haven't built a pneumag yet.. i just dont have the tools to drill into my inteliframe and rail.

[grEnAlEins]

outshoot 26+ bps? no way.. hehe but yea you'll be able to shoot faster for sure. I haven't built a pneumag yet.. i just dont have the tools to drill into my inteliframe and rail.

26 bps on a classic valve you say IDK, but I think not. That was the question. I believe the classic max at about 13-15 IIRC, but I wasn't sure so thats why I asked

[FinchMan]

and because this is "for an idiot"....

the MPA-3 does not come with a piston. Luke sales pre-made pistons.

[Pneumagger]

You can use a classic on/off, but that takes more force for the piston to push. More force = more pressure. More pressure = Heavier trigger pull. The object of the game is to get the easiest on/off in your Valve, so the trigger pull is easy with the least strain on the parts.

So, the pneumatics will actuate just about any on/off, but I really reccomend the lightest on/off you can use. So ULT's for ULT capable Mags, and rt on/offs for Classic Mags. Any rt on/off should drop right in a classic valve, both increasing flow as well as dropping the pull weight alot. This whole thing can be run off of a classic valve. If you really want to have, use a quadring RT on/off in a classic mag setup.

Here was a quick and dirty test of a pneuframe with straight Co2, and the quadringed rt on/off in a classic Level 7 Valve. Keep in mind, this test mag had no trigger stops, sear stop, or QEV installed yet. This is the base marker that went on to become my current pneumag.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pK1YcFvJrWI

[REDRT]

Hey pneumagger is that your 44AMP automag? It looks like a sweet heart. One I don't own as of yet...

[Pneumagger]

No. But I am in the market for a real .44 Automag if you'd want to trade for an Emag