Problems with Valve Reset on an Emag Valve

[noxx55]

I just bought an RT mag that came w/ an Emag valve and LvlX kit. I have tuned the level 10 and it works perfect. The problem I'm having is that when I pull the trigger, it fires fine, but I have to wait ~.25 to .50 seconds for the valve to reset and fire again. If I pull the trigger fast, the first shot fires, and after that, the mag just shoots small bursts of air until I give it enough time to reset again and it will then fire just fine for 1 more shot. I dont know much about automags so any info you have would be great. I am using a 114ci/45k tank that is at ~1600psi w/ an output of 750psi (checked it with a gauge). I have not tested velocity yet, but I have turned the velocity completely up and it still has this problem.

Some other questions:

Does the Emag valve have the response trigger like the RT valve?

What is the best input pressure for the Emag valve?

Is the Emag valve safe to use CO2 with a PPS stabilizer?

What's the difference between a standard sear and an RT pro sear (pics would help as well)?

Also, if this helps, I am using an Intelliframe, PF right body, RT pro rail and a warpfeed.

Thanks!

Noxx55

Also, on a side note, is it possible to hook the switch from radioshack that is installed in the Intelliframe to both a warpfeed and a revvy at the same time, or is there an issue with the power in the wires associated w/ the warpfeed. Thanks!

[Walrus]

Well, what kind of on/off are you using? It could be that you also need to adjust your ouput pressure from your tank to 800-850 psi instead of the 750 that it is currently set at. If you are using the stock RT on/off, then try really lubing it up and increasing your input pressure and try it again. If is a ULT, then you may have to remove or add a few shims (I can't remember which way it goes). Lastly you may want to try a rebuild on the valve. I don't know if this will help, but since you got it second hand it may need it. Oh, and you may want to check your trigger rod. It is suppose to have 1/16" space between the end of the rod and your trigger when aired up (you can hold the trigger out to measure). If there is no gap or very little, then you may need to adjust this too.

Here is my best at the rest of your questions:

Does the Emag valve have the response trigger like the RT valve?
-By increasing your input pressure, you can increase the reactivity.

What is the best input pressure for the Emag valve?
-Same as the X-Valve, 750-850 PSI.

Is the Emag valve safe to use CO2 with a PPS stabilizer?
-Definately a big no no. AGD recommends to never use CO2 on any of thier valves except the classic valves (68Automag, Classic, Micromag, Minimag). Even with a Stabilizer and/or an anti-siphon it is not recommended using it.

What's the difference between a standard sear and an RT pro sear (pics would help as well)?
-Look at the AGD site under parts. The RT-Pro sear has a brass bearing on it where the sear pin goes through it and the standard "classic" sear does not have the bearing.

And I have no idea about your last question with the wiring.

[kevdupuis]

Which spring are you using and how tight is the carrier, also how much lube are you using? Remember LVL 10 loves lube, especially during break in.
Check to see if the on/off assy might also need lubing.

[flyingpootang]

Walrus is correct. If adjusting the output dosen't work add 1 L10 shim. Just remember that if you have more than 2 you may need to go to the next largest carrier that dosen't leak while using the same carrier o-ring (white)..

[athomas]

If it is taking a long time to reset but is resetting, then your level 10 is not properly tuned yet. You need to go to the next bigger carrier. Remove all shims when doing this just to make sure you don't introduce any shim induced leaking.

You can add the shims back in later if needed. Most of the time they aren't needed because it is very rare that decreasing the bolt movement by 10/1000th(shim thickness) of an inch makes a difference in a blockage situation. Even a major breach blockage usually allows enough bolt movement to successfully allow the bolt to release excess air and reset. If it doesn't, then quite often there are other problems in your setup, usually carrier or on-off related.