I studied the threads on the x-valve and decided I wanted the Go X-valve program to be sure that I had the new sear and all of the spacers and rings. I studied the the level-10 tuning and reactive trigger threads.
When I got the x-valve I had trouble with my frame screws.
The front was frozen and I had to punch it out. The back screw was too long by 1/8" (I think it was always too long since my AIR valve was never tight on the frame). However, once I got the valve in and got the velocity cranked up, I never had any trouble with the valve or the level 10!
I checked the level 10 with a barrel swab until I got bored.
As predicted, my 3k flatline did not keep up for more than three shots reactive. So I collected a 4500 bottle and new max-flo reg on ebay and now the reactivity is fully controlled. I kept my revy so that I won't be able to over shoot anyone, bps-wise.
It's now had three cases of paint through it without one break inside (a couple 'water balloon' balls broke after barrel exit, which was weird).
After checking all the threads, you mainly see problems. I just wanted to say that mine dropped in perfectly.
When I got the x-valve I had trouble with my frame screws.
The front was frozen and I had to punch it out. The back screw was too long by 1/8" (I think it was always too long since my AIR valve was never tight on the frame). However, once I got the valve in and got the velocity cranked up, I never had any trouble with the valve or the level 10!
I checked the level 10 with a barrel swab until I got bored.As predicted, my 3k flatline did not keep up for more than three shots reactive. So I collected a 4500 bottle and new max-flo reg on ebay and now the reactivity is fully controlled. I kept my revy so that I won't be able to over shoot anyone, bps-wise.
It's now had three cases of paint through it without one break inside (a couple 'water balloon' balls broke after barrel exit, which was weird).After checking all the threads, you mainly see problems. I just wanted to say that mine dropped in perfectly.


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