Emag bolt stick

[Cow hunter]

well, i just got a set of emag lowers in a trade, and when i got them on, i aired it up, and it shoots, but it runs through air at a ridiculous rate, and the bolt will stick a bit before fully firing. i didnt get the chance to get paint through it. the lowers have Xmod 1.8, the valve has lvl10 and i put in the stock RT on/off.

i checked the LVLX, it works fine with my Zgrip on it, and theres just enough resistance on it when it slides up or down. The only thing i can think of is the field strip screw, which is too long, and wont screw in anymore

picture of screw

[FA22RaptorF22]

did you strip the threads in the valve for that screw? and check the "fix" and "dwell" settings on the board.

to see if it is the electronics or not....fire the gun in mech mode. lmk how that turns out.

[Cow hunter]

mech was almost the same result, but i could fire faster before it staarted sticking. and now im out of air... i changed the fix and dwell setting to what the Xmod manual recommends


/where do you play in CT?

[KC]

your running out of air because your shooting dry. Without paint in the gun there is no backpressur and the chamber dumps all the air out instead of holding some in.

As far as the bolt sticking... Will the field strip screw thread all the way into the valve with the valve off?

Does it thread all the way in with the other frame?

Im here to help ya as best i can.

Kristian.

[athomas]

If the valve is not tight on the rail, there could be misalignment of the bolt going into/returning from the breach. Any extra friction could cause your bolt stick. Get the proper length field strip screw and try it to see what happens before you make any major adjustments. Use some washers to fill the gap in order to test the theory.

[Cow hunter]

your running out of air because your shooting dry. Without paint in the gun there is no backpressur and the chamber dumps all the air out instead of holding some in.

As far as the bolt sticking... Will the field strip screw thread all the way into the valve with the valve off?

Does it thread all the way in with the other frame?

Im here to help ya as best i can.

Kristian.

no, i know dry firing makes it run out quick, but ~100 shots? that doesnt seem right to me.....

it does thread all the way in on the Zgrip, so i dont know why it doesnt. i didnt even know they made different field strip screws, with the exception of the old school RT one.

the valve will move a SLIGHT bit, barely enough to notice.

im going to try washers today, and get some air this weekend, so ill know how it works then.

again, thank you KC for the easy trade, and to the rest of you for your input

[Piranti]

The majority of your problem is that field strip screw not holding the valve in place properly. You would be surprised how big a difference on the ability of the mag firing characteristics with even a quarter of a turn of that field strip screw when it is the proper length.


Efficiency seems a bit off, though it will use more air on a stiffer spring, no paint, and if bolt stick is occuring you would be surprised at actually how much air is leaking even though it may not seem like it. Also even if the spring is not the culprit (stiff spring) since the valve is not properly aligned the bolt may actually be rubbing on the body reducing efficiency as well.

[Cow hunter]

ALright, well, i tried it again, first time i have been able to get air in a while. i used a washer on the field strip screw and tightened everything up. when i aired it up and tried to shoot it would just go full auto.
the stock RT on/off assembly is in it, and i used the stock pin, which is the .712 i think. i tuned the LVLX right beofre, it was perfect, so i dont think thats it.
when i use the stock on/off in the Xvalve with the Z grip on it, it does the rapid fire, i have a fixed 850 tank, and i can get indefintie full auto that stops when i let go of the trigger.

[FA22RaptorF22]

where are you in CT, maybe we could get together and solve this...

[Cow hunter]

southern CT, where do you play?

/no suggestion?

[FA22RaptorF22]

i play at hogans alley, meriden.

i live in norwalk, Ct

...edit: or you could just send my your valve/bolt assy.

[personman]

Its the field strip screw. 99% sure.

[Cow hunter]

alright, ive had this thing out of commission for a while now, and i think ive got the problem determined

after going through the valve multiple times, i decided to check the rail/sear. when i try and put it together the way its meant to go, with the rail bushing in it, there is a LOT of resistance n the sear. If i take the rail bushing out and slide the rail forward a tiny bit, there is no resistance on the sear and it seems to be working fine.

ive tried using the rail bushing from my RT, and it has the same result. So, i think the problem is the sear, and because it has so much resistance, it cant be pushed up to catch the bolt. so should i adjust the sear somewhere? has anyone else had this sort of problem?

[phat4life07]

try a harder spring, add a shim or two to your level ten.

and for the board:
dwell: 15
fix: 32

[athomas]

alright, ive had this thing out of commission for a while now, and i think ive got the problem determined

after going through the valve multiple times, i decided to check the rail/sear. when i try and put it together the way its meant to go, with the rail bushing in it, there is a LOT of resistance n the sear. If i take the rail bushing out and slide the rail forward a tiny bit, there is no resistance on the sear and it seems to be working fine.

ive tried using the rail bushing from my RT, and it has the same result. So, i think the problem is the sear, and because it has so much resistance, it cant be pushed up to catch the bolt. so should i adjust the sear somewhere? has anyone else had this sort of problem?

Something is definately out of whack if there is resistance while in the proper location. With the rail on the grip frame rotate it while watching and feeling. You should be able to get an idea of where it is rubbing or binding.

I'll bet that your solenoid plunger rod is bent slightly or strained due to it being way out of spec.