A few questions.

[GroovYChickeN 2.o]

Hi all.

Yes I'm new here. I'm well aware that I may be asking some very stupid questions but I have been looking for the past few days and haven't found quite everything I'm looking for.

Fist off, I use to play but stopped for many reasons, mostly cost. I haven't really kept up with the game since I stopped playing back in 2002ish and well, I'm looking to get back into it. I've always wanted a mag (use to own a 99 Shocker) and seeing as how I don't have a marker right now why not start off right.

Basically I'm looking for a RT mag. Would love a Emag but I don't really have the money for one. Plus I really don't see myself playing enough to justify getting one. Now as far as I understand they have changed the RT a few times over the years. I know that the new valves wont fit in the old bodies but exactly how interchangeable are the different types?

Also, With the new X-valve does that automatically mean that they also have the level 10 bolt or are they two separate upgrades. (have seen listings with some just saying X-valve, some with both, or some with just the bolt)

Last thing would the running pressure for a RT. I would guess that it is fairly high, maybe 700-800 psi? Then again I could be wrong. Along with that what HPA set ups would you guys recommend for a X-valved RT.

Thanks in advance.
~Brad

[p8ntbal4me]

Welcome Back!!!

The newest valve is called the X-Valve. It differs in a few ways. The major difference is the Level 10 that comes with it. Yes, when you purchase a X-Valve from AGD it comes with a LvL 10! (This still needs to be tuned to your gun. Buy a Parts Kit for the X-Valve with it, you'll be happy you did later on)
The second difference is the material its made out of, hence weight. The older ReTro Valves, Emag Valves, Classic Valves were made out of SS. The new X-Valve is made of the 7000 series aluminum. Lighter, and can be anodized.
This will drop into ANY mag, EXCEPT the original RT and the Sydarm.

Also, With the new X-valve does that automatically mean that they also have the level 10 bolt or are they two separate upgrades. (have seen listings with some just saying X-valve, some with both, or some with just the bolt)

Run the reccomended pressure for the Gun listed on the valve your using. In the X-Valve's case,.... it depends on ow you are going to fire. You can fire normally as fast as ur fingers go,... or you can rapid fire. Rapid fire means that the input pressure on the valves input off of your tank needs to be above 900psi. At this point, the X-Valve "kicks" the sear back against your trigger and finger quickly allowing for another returned trigger pull. If you apply just enough pressure to the trigger and do what AO members call "sweet spotting". At this point the trigger "bounces" off your finger and goes "full-auto". (this is NOT Tourney legal)

My suggestion to you, if your getting an X-Valve, would be to purchase the ULE trigger pull kit with it. It lightens the trigger pull and mkaes firing a mag,... so much easier on the fingers!

Hope that helps!

**Note: AO Members,... please correct my post where you see fit!**

[GroovYChickeN 2.o]

Sweet thanks for the info! You rule!

[craltal]

The x-valve is just an all aluminum RT valve. The original RT's used the banjo bolt for the air input while the "newer" ones use the traditional side port.

The newer RT and emag valves are actually half aluminum, half steel

All x-valves should come with a Level X unless you buy used and the owner decided to swap.

RT/ xvalves want HPA. CO2 is BIG bad mojo. You'll want an high pressure output tank. All of the RT/ xValves use extra air to push the trigger back at you. Usually the higher your input pressure, the more pronounced the reactivity. Due to the manufacturing though, some are quite reactive at 800psi and some still aren't even at 1000psi.

The ULE Trigger (aka ULT) is actually designed to kill the reactivity and drop the trigger pull weight (although can be tweaked to really up the reactivity).

[GroovYChickeN 2.o]

So is it then safe to assume that something like The RPG Paradigm mag or a used non RT mag with all the ups (x-valve, level 10, ULE body, Intelliframe, ULT, ect) is the same as gitting a ULE RT from AGD?? It seems like all the working internals are the same unless I'm missing something.

[Lenny]

X valve = RT valve. The only difference is alluminum vs. stainless steal. So a non-RT 'Mag with an X valve technically wouldn't exist.

And yes you are right about the different guns. They are all *basically* the same thing. All come with X valve, all come with a ULE body, all have an Intelli frame, etc. It just depends on the little accessory differences. Like the ULE Custom comes with an RT Pro Rail and a bike grip gas-thru; but the Paradigm Classic comes with one of Rogue's aftermarket rails and a bike grip (and ULT I believe); but then the Paradigm Pro has all the same bells and wistles as the previous two but includes the same rail as the Classic model, but adds a different gas-thru and a clamping feedneck.

Hopefully I didn't confuse the hell out of you.

And about the EMag thing... With pneumags being readily available, who needs an EMag?

When looking for an RT valve, make sure the one you plan on buying has the TWO o-ring slots in the on/off. That way you can just drop in the ULT on/off. If it only has one o-ring, it'll have to be milled out. Don't worry, though. All X valves are compatable and most RT valves are compatable.

...And one more thing. Don't forget about classic valves! Sure, they aren't as fancy as RT valves, but they still take the Lvl 10, and with an RT on/off the trigger pull is just as light as a ULT in an RT (did that make sense?) If you plan on staying *pure* mechanical semi (no bounce, no pneumatic mod, no electro mod), stick with the classic valve. It'll save you some pennies.

...But then, I do love my RT valve...

[craltal]

...And one more thing. Don't forget about classic valves! Sure, they aren't as fancy as RT valves, but they still take the Lvl 10, and with an RT on/off the trigger pull is just as light as a ULT in an RT (did that make sense?) If you plan on staying *pure* mechanical semi (no bounce, no pneumatic mod, no electro mod), stick with the classic valve. It'll save you some pennies.

actually a ULE Trigger Kit may or may not work in a classic valve. As for the RT on/off, it will definitely drop the pull on a classic valve considerably, but it's still going to be about twice as much as a true ULE Trigger Kit. The plus side to the RT on/off in a classic valve is that it's happy with CO2 AND doesn't require the tuning that the ULE Trigger Kits do.

[GroovYChickeN 2.o]

Awesome. Thanks again. You guys effing rock