Need X-Valve / Hyperframe Help..

[AronMsmith1987]

I just recently purchatsed a Micromag From ebay and it contains the following

X-Valve
ULE Trigger Pull Kit
Hyperframe set to 20BPS
LVL 10 Kit
etc...

and the problem is that i know very little about the gun and cannot seem to tune the gun to fire more than 2 bps period, I have read all the litature that came with the gun as well I have done some reserch of my own and still nothing any help would be nice is there a place i can send the gun to have it tuned ie. centerflag, AGD, or any reputable forum member?? thanks for the help, AronMsmith1987

[p8ntbal4me]

I think you are going to find that your issue lies in the Hyperframe so you can count AGD on being the last people to ask for help with your gun.

As far as I know, Center Flag has been distancing them selves of the Uprising (cocker frame)and the Hyperframe (mag frame) as much as possible due to they no longer sell them.

It sounds like you need to get the newer manual, which is still up on the Centerflag home page (look under "Tech Support"). You want to check to make sure that your settings under the solenoid pulse length and on/off time are correct.

Search the forums here for Hyperframe settings and it will give you a start.

Things to look for in the manual are:
Unlock button inside the grip frame, when u press this button it displays "unl" on ur LCD screen telling you that you can use the buttons to change the ROF and mode of fire.

The new manual on their web page is up to date,.. soI would start there.

[Remagk]

do you read this Hyperframe thread

[AronMsmith1987]

Problem Narrowed Down To X-Valve

Yes I have the recomended 20,50,20 settings on the hyperframe and a new battery I have narrowed the problem down to the x-valve, I tested the hyperframe with a micromag RT valve that was pretty well tuned in and worked great except for the obvious shoot down at 20bps but now i just have to figure out how to tune the x-valve in. any help in this catagory I have tried multiple spacers/shims and spring combinations is there anyone that can recomend a good place to start it seems that nothing really wants to work with this valve?? could it possibly be the ule trigger and if so how do i fix that? or what do I look for? thanks for the help.

[p8ntbal4me]

Yes I have the recomended 20,50,20 settings on the hyperframe and a new battery I have narrowed the problem down to the x-valve, I tested the hyperframe with a micromag RT valve that was pretty well tuned in and worked great except for the obvious shoot down at 20bps but now i just have to figure out how to tune the x-valve in. any help in this catagory I have tried multiple spacers/shims and spring combinations is there anyone that can recomend a good place to start it seems that nothing really wants to work with this valve?? could it possibly be the ule trigger and if so how do i fix that? or what do I look for? thanks for the help.

I wrote the process I did with my X-Valve with the ULT and 1 other I worked on. I'll post it per step to you via here then PM so you get a place to start. Off the top of my head, you start with the reccomended settings based on the AGD web page diagram,.. then what I did was instead of jumping to the next spacer after I added the shims they specified,... I went with more shims.

Think of the spacers as chapters on a DVD and the shims as the specific scene clips you can move forward and back to. The shims are just to fine tune,.... you need to get it to stop leaking by working the spacers,.. and you'll need alot of air to do it (by all that I mean the level 10 if your using it). I went through 3 tanks on one x-valve,.. and it was the fact that I needed a parts kit to replace o-rings due to the valve sat on a shelf at AGD for a long time and it was not getting used. I dont think it was you,.. but I posted this comment with the same question asked,... when you order a valve,.. buy a parts kit. Replacing o-rings is alot easier when u have them on hand!

For now,.. find the exploded view of the x-valve on here and the ULT,.. take the thing apart right in front of the computer screen,... and oil/grease every parts the instructions suggest. If you have it,.. use the grease that Smart Parts uses on the Shocker. It works well. The DYE Dow grease is just as good,.. but it doesnt show up well on black o-rings,.. so I use the pink stuff so I know what I have greased (Im a visual kinda guy). After all that and you put the thing back together,.. put 5-8 good drops of PMI oil, or something equivilant in the HP input on the x-valve and start firing. It says in the manual when u get it to shoot it well over 1000 times,.... count em out! You have the ULT so it wont be a pain to do. But stop every 100 shots and de-gas. Find out where the leaks are comming from. The barrel? The small hole on the left side of the valve? The rear velocity screw? Read the manual again for your problem,... and troubleshoot. It takes some work,.. but its good to do it in stages. If you think you cant find the issue,.. swap the level 10 bolt out for a lvl 7 standard bolt and go from there. You shouldnt have to,.. but you can eliminate one issue right off the top (yes,... u need to tune the valve and the lvl 10)

I have to start a final right now,.. so when I get a chance,.. I will post exactly what I did for my valves. In the mean time,... the AO has TONS of guides from other players. I would read some more before you tackle it again so you can get a better idea on what your working with.

See ya when I see ya!

[nevtangle]

Yes I have the recomended 20,50,20 settings on the hyperframe and a new battery I have narrowed the problem down to the x-valve, I tested the hyperframe with a micromag RT valve that was pretty well tuned in and worked great except for the obvious shoot down at 20bps but now i just have to figure out how to tune the x-valve in. any help in this catagory I have tried multiple spacers/shims and spring combinations is there anyone that can recomend a good place to start it seems that nothing really wants to work with this valve?? could it possibly be the ule trigger and if so how do i fix that? or what do I look for? thanks for the help.

I got my HF to work w/ the 20, 50, 20 settings, but got a lot of chuffing. I got better result w/ 20, 60, 20, but still had chuffing issues. I found that the problem was with the settings. I'll look at the settings I'm using now and post them later. I'm using an xvalve as well. I have as many shims in the ult as possible (7 I think).

EDIT:
I think these are close to what I'm using now.
IS: 4
FD: 1
Fn: 5

also you said you narrowed down the problem to the xvalve. If you have a mechanical trigger frame you should put that on there and see how it shoots. You should get the gun shooting good and then put the HF on and get the settings right. If the gun shoots good w/ an intelliframe on it and then starts acting up w/ the HF, you'll know where the problem is coming from.

[p8ntbal4me]

Yes I have the recomended 20,50,20 settings on the hyperframe and a new battery I have narrowed the problem down to the x-valve, I tested the hyperframe with a micromag RT valve that was pretty well tuned in and worked great except for the obvious shoot down at 20bps but now i just have to figure out how to tune the x-valve in. any help in this catagory I have tried multiple spacers/shims and spring combinations is there anyone that can recomend a good place to start it seems that nothing really wants to work with this valve?? could it possibly be the ule trigger and if so how do i fix that? or what do I look for? thanks for the help.

I just re-read ur post and I found 2 things if you feel you are correct in what you shot on the Micromag RT.

1) the micro mag RT came in a bunch of body styles that will not effect valve performace

2) the micro mag RT came in 2 different versions when speaking of the valve. They both look the same on the outside and they both are made of SS as to the X-valve which is made of the 7000 series aluminum. The difference is: one takes a single o-ring in the bottom of the on/off assembly where the pin drops in and out,... the other takes a white/yellow-ish one and a black one = 2 o-rings.

The difference: The single o-ring is NOT ULT ready and must be drilled out to take a ULT trigger kit. The double o-ring valve is dubbed "ULT Ready"

3) The BPS and CPS in those valves are no difference in the newer x-valves,.... they easily rip 37cps (NOT BPS). See Zak Vetters web page for proof of these tests.

I am pretty sure your valve is not the shoot down issue,... it might be the time between where the solenoid sets back to that its not fully seated and its "half cycling". (ie: your pulling the trigger before the noid has time to complete the cycle. This can be corrected in the software on the board,.... Are you using the ULT in the Micromag RT valve when you test the hyperframe? If your not,.. that means that your using a stock on-off assebly which requires more power to the noid and a longer pulse length. That would explain why you cant get the higher CPS.

Take the hyperframe off,... put the stock bolt on the x-valve (if u have it) and work your way up to the hyperframe. Sounds like your playing with 2 many things at once,.... its hard to tell what your problem is if your swaping parts between guns to see if they work. You have to treat your mag like the Ronco Easy Oven Cooker "Set it,.. and forget it!" Soon as you swap parts out to another mag,.... it tells you nothing,... only that the part may or may not work in a particular setup on a particular mag.