.68 Classic hose and VA/foregrip questions

[glaman5266]

I just picked up an old .68 Classic. I was wondering if it would be beneficial to replace the small-diameter hose from the ASA to the valve with standard macroline.

I would also like to know what I would need to attach a foregrip. There is no VA on this mag... Would I need- just a VA or a new rail plus the VA?

Any help would be appreciated.

Side question: I've made up my mind to pick up a ULE body for the first upgrade (other than the VA). However, I'm short on cash being a college student and have no problem sticking with the Classic valve and Level 7 bolt for a while. What would be your suggestions for the very next one or two upgrades? Any input would be appreciated.

[PumpMag]

Congrats on your Automag and welcome to AO!

Macroline will reduce weight of the marker and is easy to remove or replace.

You don't have to change the rail for the foregrip, you just have to drill out the hole in the rail and get the correct allen screw.

If you get a vertical adapter, then there are screw in foregrips or gas-through foregrips still available (or get an expansion chamber if you use CO2).

As far as upgrades, keep checking the forum, your options are limitless!

[MANN]

#1 upgrade for a mag is level 10 kit. You will never chop a ball again

Welcome to AO

[glaman5266]

It already has macroline, but it's the small diameter stuff. Standard standard macro will increase airflow... yes?

I was told that there are plain foregrips and VAs available that simply attach to the rail, no drilling required. Is this true? If so, that would appeal the most to me. I don't mind the hose looping up from the ASA to the valve- 2 fewer places for leaks to develop.

I don't really co2 because of the valve. I hear these valves take co2 well, but I can shoot fast enough that the valve and seals cool down and begin to leak. I don't typically run co2 through it, but if I must I know to use an x-chamber.

The Lv10 bolt is low on my list of upgrades considering my current funds. I'm looking for primarily upgrades to enhance ergonomics and ease of shooting.

I'd like to lighten the trigger pull, but I've read that the ULTs don't work with the Classic valve. If that's true then perhaps a double trigger would be the way to go. I want to keep it mechanical since I already have a few decent electros and the Intelliframes are out of my budget. I also prefer single triggers- are there any modifications that can be done to lighten the pull with the stock trigger? I read something about a sear mod or something like that once...

[MANN]

It already has macroline, but it's the small diameter stuff. Standard standard macro will increase airflow... yes?

Not by much. Probally is not going to be noticable. I prefer SS tubs wraped with shrink wrap. It allows for the quickest dissambly, and the fewest leaks.

I was told that there are plain foregrips and VAs available that simply attach to the rail, no drilling required. Is this true? If so, that would appeal the most to me. I don't mind the hose looping up from the ASA to the valve- 2 fewer places for leaks to develop.

Probally 95% of rails already have holes drilled for foregrips/vert asa adaptors. You can usually find foregrips for 15 bucks around the misc section. They will bolt on with one screw

I don't really co2 because of the valve. I hear these valves take co2 well, but I can shoot fast enough that the valve and seals cool down and begin to leak. I don't typically run co2 through it, but if I must I know to use an x-chamber.

If you are planning on staying mech you will probally not be able to shoot fast enough to cause that. I would always recomend a good expansion chamber with CO2. A remote line also will help tremendously.

The Lv10 bolt is low on my list of upgrades considering my current funds. I'm looking for primarily upgrades to enhance ergonomics and ease of shooting.

A level 10 is probally the best upgrade for a mag. As most paintball players know once a ball breaks in your gun the rest of your shots will not go straight. Preventing this is key espically if your using a mech, and cant get the bps of todays Eguns. IMO They are worth their weight in gold. I have one on every automag I own, and refuse to play without one. (as probally most other AOers) Check around the misc section. you can usually pick one up for ~ 55 shipped.

I'd like to lighten the trigger pull, but I've read that the ULTs don't work with the Classic valve. If that's true then perhaps a double trigger would be the way to go. I want to keep it mechanical since I already have a few decent electros and the Intelliframes are out of my budget. I also prefer single triggers- are there any modifications that can be done to lighten the pull with the stock trigger? I read something about a sear mod or something like that once...

It is going to be hard to lighten the pull of a classic with a single trigger frame. I would try a rt on/off. It is not as light as a ult, but still not as hard as a classic on/off. A ult will work with a classic, but I would not recomend it to anyone who has owned their mag less than a year due to the fact that it is very hard to tune.

The mod sear is designed to allow you to shoot your gun at high ROF without the occasional chuff chuff. It will acutally increase the force required to pull the trigger.

EDIT: I thought you were saying Intelliframes are electric. If so please disregard the following: Intelliframes are not electronic. In fact they are nothing more than a typical mech 2X trigger frame. The advantage of an Intelliframe is that there is a mounting bracket located inside the frame that allows the user to mount a roller switch. (this mounting bracket is found in most other AGD frames also) This can be used to activate a warp or any type of hopper. Basicly it is like an on/off switch you will see in your house. When the trigger is pulled it sends a signal to your hopper/warp to feed balls. When you let off the trigger it tells it to stop. All the parts to do this mod can be found at your local radio shack for ~ 15bucks.


Just fyi the level 10 is so soft that you can stick your tounge, or a dollar bill in the breech, and it will not shoot. (of course it must be prperly tuned, and should NOT be tried at home) (but I have)

Dont beleive me?? Check out AGD's many OMFG videos of the Level 10. The best is labeled "Tounge"

http://www.airgun.com/xmag/html/xtras2.html

[glaman5266]

Not by much. Probally is not going to be noticable. I prefer SS tubs wraped with shrink wrap. It allows for the quickest dissambly, and the fewest leaks.
Yeah- Now I'm considering using braided hose with QD fittings for easy disassembly.

Probally 95% of rails already have holes drilled for foregrips/vert asa adaptors. You can usually find foregrips for 15 bucks around the misc section. They will bolt on with one screw
My rail doesn't have a hole for a foregrip to be bolted into. Probably need a new rail. I was thinking about a new one anyway.

If you are planning on staying mech you will probally not be able to shoot fast enough to cause that. I would always recomend a good expansion chamber with CO2. A remote line also will help tremendously.
Actually, my valve hisses a fair amount after I shoot about 20 balls as fast as I can running co2. It runs just fine on HPA, but it'd be nice to be able to run co2 if I want a second marker gassed up (have only one HPA tank). Perhaps a valve disassembly and seal replacements are needed?

A level 10 is probally the best upgrade for a mag. As most paintball players know once a ball breaks in your gun the rest of your shots will not go straight. Preventing this is key espically if your using a mech, and cant get the bps of todays Eguns. IMO They are worth their weight in gold. I have one on every automag I own, and refuse to play without one. (as probally most other AOers) Check around the misc section. you can usually pick one up for ~ 55 shipped.
I believe it. But I can't even afford to shell out $55 right now. Several unanticipated issues (that require lots of money) have come up within the past 12 hours. Really sucks.

It is going to be hard to lighten the pull of a classic with a single trigger frame. I would try a rt on/off. It is not as light as a ult, but still not as hard as a classic on/off. A ult will work with a classic, but I would not recomend it to anyone who has owned their mag less than a year due to the fact that it is very hard to tune.
LegumeOfTerror also suggested a RT on/off. I'll definitely look into it.
Even if I got a ULT, I LOVE to sit down and work on guns. Tuning and patience aren't an issue with me. Any potential short-stroking with the ULT wouldn't be a big issue either- I have a bit of experience w/mechanical cockers and my Rainmaker has a HUGE trigger pull. I'm used to it- lol.

.

[spectre184]

I was told that there are plain foregrips and VAs available that simply attach to the rail, no drilling required.

There are used foregrips if you look aorund here on B/S/T of AO. you can find one piece like this one I use http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4054158 or you can buy seperate asa adaptor and buy any kind of foregrip you like.

You can buy new used one piece from proteam like I have or I like looks of their ASA adaptor that I use on other mag. Here is their foregrip too. Look around on websites liek actionvillage.com or punisherpb.com and see all different kinds of gas thru grips.

And remember it's all matter of personal preferance. What I like may not be good for you

[glaman5266]

I know it's all about preference. I hang out in the Newbie forum on PBNation a lot, helping out the new kids. It just about doubles my blood pressure when we get those opinionated 13-year-olds telling others to get this, that, or the other thing because "it's the best".

There isn't even a hole in the rail to bolt a VA or foregrip to. A different rail is probably the place to start. Thanks to everyone for the help- it's appreciated.

[spectre184]

There isn't even a hole in the rail to bolt a VA or foregrip to. A different rail is probably the place to start.

May not be necessary for new rail. iirc (been long time) take gun apart and look top of rail (where body goes over top) there should be indentation or some kind of mark where you should drill thru. Someone else correct me if I'm wrong

[glaman5266]

OK- I see where the rail should be drilled out. I didn't look at the body to see if it's threaded to take a foregrip when I had it apart... If it's not I guess I'll have to tap the rail...

If the rail needs to be tapped, where can I find out what the thread tap is? I'll check the stickies too...

[LegumeOfTerror]

its just a hole. the screw threads down into the foregrip/asa with the head resting in the indentation.

[glaman5266]

its just a hole. the screw threads down into the foregrip/asa with the head resting in the indentation.

Wow, that makes a lot of sense. Can't believe I didn't figure that out.