Pro-Line Autoresponse makes my mag leak!

[Malystryx]

Hey everyone

I got my Pro-Line Autoresponse trigger in yesterday. I installed it and will shoot fine the first couple of shots, but then it leaks out of the barrel. The balls seem to be all over the place, and with the stock CF Frame it shot just like every mag should. I'm thinking I need to change the power tube spacer, but I really don't know a whole lot about automags. I know I'm not short stroking it, as they're all clean, long pulls (I'm used to shooting cockers). My gun is a Minimag with a Smartmag valve, Pro-Line Autoresponse Trigger frame, Level 7, and an ACI SubZero expansion chamber. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

[Tunaman]

There is no telling what may be wrong. You frame obviosly does not meet AGD specs. I have seen quite a few different frames that didn't work. You can try to tinker with the spacers and good luck. Let us know...

[Malystryx]

I swapped spacers in from my other minimag which was a little bit smaller. What I had running in there was a .235 I think, the other one was a blue one with no markings. It shot ok for a few shots, probably about 10 quick pulls, then it started leaking out of the barrel again and the bolt/sear didn't reset. It usually only happens when I shoot somewhat fast... I might try and slap it on my other minimag and see if anything happens, it might be that stupid smartparts valve .

[turbo chicken]

oil the on off...

[Coralis]

Like Tuna said your probably going to have to experiment with different spacers and possibly adjusting the trigger rod, as I recall these frames could be a real PITA to set up initially.

[Tunaman]

and make sure the trigger rod is not hitting the back of the trigger when gassed up.

[Malystryx]

Well I put it on my other minimag and it didn't help at all. It would just constantly leak down the barrel. I had put on the original carbon fiber grip frames and they both shoot perfect. It's just when I put on the Pro-line Auto Responsive trigger frame one will shot a decent string and then leak out of the barrel constantly and will have to unscrew the tank to stop it. The other one from the get go just leaks down the barrel. On this trigger frame there is no trigger rod, and I have also tried oiling the on off. I'm not sure what to do next. I would really love to get this thing working right on one of my mags...

I tried some google searches and I can't find hardly anything on it. No manuals, nothing.

[Coralis]

yeah that frame has been out of production for quite a long time ... did you try changing the power tube spacers like tuna suggested ?

yeah i forgot those dont have a adjustable trigger rod, you might try using the search function and search for Proline.

[Pneumagger]

Co2?

[Malystryx]

Yes I am using Co2, it's the only thing available to me right now. And I'm looking for a place to buy a spacer kit...

[Pneumagger]

Your on/off or powertube oring could be freezing - as well as the powertube spring dying.

[Malystryx]

How would I be able to tell if the power tube spring is dying? I don't think that the o-ring is freezing, as I was shooting it in my house over 70 degrees in here, and I was probably shooting faster with the stock CF frame with the same conditions and no problems. But would replacing it help? I've got an expansion chamber, I'll try running a remote with it as well.

[kobeastly]

Are you using power tube springs or power tube spacers? If you have been using spacers try using a spring if you can get your hands on one. The the auto responce trigger was around in the times when they still used ptube springs so that may help solve it if you haven't already tried the springs.

I don't know how to get the responce trigger to hold the sear down but if you can get it to do that, then do it next time it starts leaking. If it leaks for a few seconds then stops it will be a seal in the power tube (or ptube spacers/spring) or it will be one or both of the bottom on/off o-rings.


You can also try just dryfiring but do it straight up to minimize the amount of liquid that could get into the gun. If you can fire more shots from that position, there is a good chance it just needs HPA.

[p8ntbal4me]

I have a Autoresponse frame bud,.. and I used to run CO2 with so maybe I can tell you how my setup was and that,.. along with the previous posts can help you.

Back bottle 20oz CO2 in harness, ASA to horizontal hardline into a 4 stage? expantion chamber (it was the biggest you could buy at the time), hardline metal remote from expantion chamber to duck bill on bottom of autoresponse grip frame, hardline hose to another 4stage? expantion chamber, expantion chamber into the ASA on the micromag, hardline to the micromag valve with a PTP line filter (anti liquid filter)

I had 2 expantion chambers (3 if you count the remote line). That setup for 400 rounds provided me with very little issues involved back then with using CO2 on high ROF.

To do what kobeastly said about holding the trigger down to check for spacer issues,.. its from the resting possition to the 1/4 way mark (between the first shot but not all the way back to the half way point which in your case is a full trigger pull)

I think I used to use the purple spacer from Venom Toxic Toys. Im not sure,.. either that or the green one. Its been a while since I used the frame on a regular valve.

The other thing is that my original frame was made by Benchmark that had my reponse kit in it. The one I have now is like the one you say ou have "Pro-line" with a little crosshair symble on it,.. right? My old one didnt have all that on it,.. so Im wondering if the frame changed hands before the idea was dropped.

Check the spring tention too in the frame. You want it to be stiff as much as you can get it without stretching it out beyond the way it sits normally from the bottom of the frame hole to the little "T" thing inside. <<--- does that thing even have a name???

When your done playing for the day,.. take the spring off the bottom of the trigger frame and leave the end on the "T" attached,.. this prolongs the life of the sring and keeps it stiff.

The other thing I needed to ask was,.. you dont have a sear pin in your frame right? The little pin that goes from the hole at the bottom of the sear to the back side of the trigger,.... you dont have that installed right? Instead your little "T" connector is fitted to the bottom of the sear and its attached to the trigger right? Looks like this right

Go back to the 6th post where Tuna mentioned the pin needed a small gap in the back of the trigger. Take that into thought for a timming issue but change the "pin" he mentioned to the "T" fitting. The problem he was mentioning was the timing issue. You need to have the gap on your frame just like a standard trigger with pin to get the timing on the mag right. Problem being that if your frame is like mine is,.. you dont have that gap. So what you need to remember is this: Full trigger pulls all the way to the rear and a full release. You say your used to cocker right? Ever shot an original Gen-X cocker when they first came out? Think of the frame as you would a manual cocker slide trigger. You need the full pull, plus the release off the trigger and a liiiiiiiitle bit more to allow the sear to set back in. Gen-X cockers for newer players had the same issue. They went from a oval slot in the 3-way trigger hole to just a plain hole,.. so timing the 3 way was VERY hard if you didnt know how to do it already. Your gap Tuna mentioned is the pull all the way to the rear. Make sure you hit the trigger on the back of the frame every time and then let go. I had to start with 6 balls per second (3 pulls) untill I could get the feeling down,.. then I got much faster and better at it. By then I was running HPA and it didnt slow down at all.

I would start off by going through the gun first like everyone said,.. then take a good look at your fingers when you shoot it,.. and see if what Im telling you to try is happening. It might be that your kit is worn in and you need to replace your spring,.... start with the valve,... work your way to your fingers.

Good Luck!