xvalve

[Hotaru]

Does the trigger and sear pin behind the trigger actually move to the rear or is it stuck?

Whats your input pressure on the tank set at? If its a preset u can call it 800-900psi

How far out is your rear velocity screw backed out? I would turn it in a couple times nad see if that helps at all.

If it "clicks" when you give it air and it doesnt leak, I would say its something to do with the on/off. Maybe your on/off pin is too short?? Might be a badly seated o-ring,....

Whens the last time you took the valve apart and made sure you had every part in the x-valve diagram? Just asking if you replaced an older part for a newer one.

The trigger and sear move but not a whole lot.

Tank is a preset tank.

I have messed with that velocity screw alot and stil no dice. Turning it in pulling the trigger then out a bit and nothing.

It clicked the first time i aired it up but then didnt click again after that. I replaced the piston which was really easy just take out the velocity screw take the old one out and drop the new one in.

My pin could possibly be too short but the Xvalve used to work fine but the gun would leak out the barrel.

I'll look the xvalve over and make sure i have all the parts tomorrow after work. I got to get ready in half an hour.

Thank you for your help.

[athomas]

Don't worry about your on-off pin being too short. If it was too short, you would have a problem with it always wanting to shoot full auto rather than not being able to shoot at all.

Keep the short bolt spring until you get it working.

The carrier holds the oring inside the powertube of the valve. The carriers come in different inside diameters. The allow you to adjust the tension of the oring on the bolt stem. If the tension is too much (carrier too small), then the bolt won't slide forward when you release the sear and the gun won't fire. If the tension is not enough, the air will leak out the front of the valve.

The powertube is the part that the bolt slides into at the front of the valve. Shims go between the powertube tip and the carrier to force the carrier and oring farther back in the powertube. Too many shims, and the bolt vent hole will always be exposed and the gun will continuously leak. The shims were designed to shorten the distance that the bolt had to travel before it could reset in the event of a breach blockage. In reality, the distance is so short that the bolt will almost always travel far enough even without any shims.

If you don't have a gap between the trigger and the trigger rod, then that could be your problem. Fix that first. It will prevent the sear from rotating forward and opening the on-off to allow the front chamber of the valve to recharge. Without the front chamber charging, there is no pressure to push the bolt forward and the gun won't fire.

[Hotaru]

ALRIGHT! Ok, I got her working properly. She doesnt need any shims. I had one part in the power tube in backwards and I needed a new reg piston, but she is in fine working order now.

Thank you all so much!

I really appreciate it.

[athomas]