Can I decrease the trigger pull on a Pro Classic??

**robnix** · 02-24-2007, 10:06 AM

Originally posted by slasherdan

Hey everyone,

I ran a search on the forum and didn't find anything on this topic.

Anyway, I just got a Pro Classic and got a chance to gas it up last night. First I tried my 12 ounce tank and I dry fired it a few times. When I tried to fire it sometimes the bolt seemed to stick and gas would leak out.

So I swapped to a HPA tank and shot it a few more times. Looks like I was right about the tank being low on CO2.

Anyway .. I noticed how stiff the trigger pull was and was wondering if there is anything out there I can do to give it a lighter trigger pull??? I think I would almost out shoot it with my Phantom

Either way I love this thing .... just want to be able to fire a tad faster with it. I have the composite trigger frame and the gun's velocity was right about at 284 FPS.

Thanks for any help... sorry in advance if my searches missed anything on this ... I guess I need to work on my Forum Search skills.

You can put an RT/Pro on/off in it.

**slasherdan** · 02-24-2007, 11:03 AM

Originally posted by robnix

You can put an RT/Pro on/off in it.

This would require me to use HPA only though right??

**Rabbit** · 02-24-2007, 11:10 AM

Didn't they change something a bit to where the on-offs weren't interchangable? I know you can use an RT Classic on-off in a Minimag and not the RT Pro, maybe that is what I am thinking.

**snoopay700** · 02-24-2007, 01:51 PM

You can always do the mod that luke did (dunno if he still does) where he drilled a hole higher up on the sear. That does make the pull a bit heavier however.

**robnix** · 02-24-2007, 02:19 PM

Originally posted by slasherdan

This would require me to use HPA only though right??

I think you can still use co2, since the recharge of the valve isn't as fast as the RT valves.

**robnix** · 02-24-2007, 02:21 PM

Originally posted by Rabbit

Didn't they change something a bit to where the on-offs weren't interchangable? I know you can use an RT Classic on-off in a Minimag and not the RT Pro, maybe that is what I am thinking.

The RT/Pro on/off will work in a classic valve. Makes for an easy pull, it might take a few shims to make it work right but that's about it.

**athomas** · 02-25-2007, 06:30 AM

The standard retro on-off assembly works fine in a classic valve. The pin is the same length, so no shims or modifications are necessary. You can add a ULT shim or two between the on-off halves to make the pull a bit more crisp.

**slasherdan** · 02-25-2007, 08:16 AM

So I should only need this:

On-Off Assembly in AirGuns Catelog

I can't seem to find some ULT shims though ...

**Thotograph** · 02-25-2007, 02:50 PM

Originally posted by slasherdan

So I should only need this:

On-Off Assembly in AirGuns Catelog

I can't seem to find some ULT shims though ...

so there's many ways to skin a cat... there's many ways to get a mags trigger a little sweeter... the on off is the most obvious route and certainly is a good one. with my first mag (classic valve) i did my own trigger job with some info i got off the then fledgling internet (about ten years ago :)) back then there weren't many options that were any better than what agd engineered.

disclaimer: i'm not saying you should do this yourself but... you can polish your sear with a dremel and that will do a good job making it a bit smoother. the part i'm talking about is the flat surface and lip that the bolt slides on and catches. just be sure you leave the surface of the sear flat and you don't take too much off, very little change is needed to affect performance and too much will make the marker unsafe. only proceed with doing this if you know you are capable of doing so... if you aren't sure it's best to do some more research, enlist some help, or find someone who can do it for you...

if you want i've got an extra stock rt on/off that i could let go of... not really inclined to but i could... i forsee myself constructing a classic valved mag out of scraps in the near future but im always willing to help someone else out.

some other things to try are sear length (extend the little pin a bit and it will make the trigger actuate sooner) its adjustable with the threaded pin. you have to make sure it's not exerting pressure on the trigger when at rest or it could shortstroke etc. you can always put some trigger stops in somehow to only allow it to travel the necessary amount (plus a tiny bit for assurance). if you adjust the sear pin be sure to loctite it...

there's always a double trigger or an intelli frame which will give you a great feeling trigger on its own... but if you want to go all out the pneumag conversion is a different world. however, you might outshoot the classic valve with that configuration so a x-valve would be recommended for that. check the forums to find out more about that...

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edit: i just wanted to mention that the trigger job i described doesn't make it a hair trigger it just makes it a little bit smoother and a little bit easier... it wasn't amazing but i did recieve compliments from a few refs who chronoed it (back in the day) i think the best advice i could give to someone who doesn't want a do it yourself method suggested would be to talk to the mag smith, luke's custom shop, or tunamart about how best to proceed in this day and age...

**athomas** · 02-26-2007, 08:33 AM

Originally posted by Thotograph

... you can polish your sear with a dremel and that will do a good job making it a bit smoother. the part i'm talking about is the flat surface and lip that the bolt slides on and catches. just be sure you leave the surface of the sear flat and you don't take too much off, very little change is needed to affect performance and too much will make the marker unsafe. only proceed with doing this if you know you are capable of doing so... if you aren't sure it's best to do some more research, enlist some help, or find someone who can do it for you...

This doesn't do much with the level 10 bolt. The force is now so low on the sear due to the way the level 10 system works that there is no noticeable difference anymore. The force reduced on the sear is transfered to the on-off pin due to the higher required chamber pressure. Therefore, we notice more pull force difference when we use smaller diameter bottoms on our on-off pins.

A trigger stop is a nice addition to any mechanical mag. It does seem to affect the feel of the pull because it reduces the overall travel distance that you feel.

**slasherdan** · 02-26-2007, 08:49 AM

Originally posted by slasherdan

So I should only need this:

On-Off Assembly in AirGuns Catelog

I can't seem to find some ULT shims though ...

So I ask once more .... the above part is what I need right??

**kevdupuis** · 02-26-2007, 11:34 AM

That's it.

**FlawleZ** · 02-26-2007, 03:20 PM

Originally posted by Thotograph

there's always a double trigger or an intelli frame which will give you a great feeling trigger on its own... but if you want to go all out the pneumag conversion is a different world. however, you might outshoot the classic valve with that configuration so a x-valve would be recommended for that. check the forums to find out more about that...

Not likely unless you can walk your mechanical mag really fast. The classic valve has been proven to cycle 16+ BPS without shootdown. Some argue even higher cycles per second are possible with a classic.

**slasherdan** · 02-26-2007, 03:24 PM

I'm not interested in getting a higher rate of fire. I just want to ease up on the trigger pull so I'm not working so hard to fire the Mag.

Can I decrease the trigger pull on a Pro Classic??

Can I decrease the trigger pull on a Pro Classic??

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