Ok guys, im new to mags, I actually posted earlier about a sick mag, got rid of that and bought a new classic ( wanted the ULE Pro with the xvalve, couldnt afford it). I've read a little about putting the stock RT on/off assembly in the classic valve to lighten the pull. what exactly would I need to do this? is there a better way? Let me know what you guys think. Cant wait to get my mag!
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RT on/off and a .750 pin. Take an ad out in the classifed section. It should be around 10-15 used. -
Or if you don't want to wait pm tunaman here on ao. He can get you a new one for $20.
I tried this with a classic valve running co2 and saw no noticeable difference. I think it was the co2's fault. Are you using co2 or hp? I would recommend hp because the orings for the rt on/off are meant for hp.
Good luck.Comment
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running HPA. So I just use the teflon o rings and other orings, just replace the actual on/off and the pin? has anyone else tried this? what did you think? is it worth it?Comment
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Drop the whole on/off assembly into the mag. orings pin housing and all. The pin diameter is smaller, so the force to activate is smaller.Originally posted by mbd2Comment
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I have done this. All you have to do is replace the whole on/off assembly. Use the o-rings that work best with the RT on/off. When I first installed the RT it had a leaking/recocking issue because the stock on/off teflon o-ring was more fitted to it's pin rather than the RT's. It's not hard to do and it's worked wonders both with CO2 and HPA. I run HPA mostly and CO2 for testing.Originally posted by mbd2Comment
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thanx guys!Comment
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Alrighty!
I dropped in my RT on/off that I purchased from Tuna into my AIR valve and aired it up and ... nada. I get the familiar click as the pin pushes down on the sear and there is resistance as I pull the trigger but the marker does not fire. The pin length is that of a stock Automag.
Either there sear is not letting go of the bolt or the O/O is not letting gas pass in to the chamber behind the bolt. My money is on the O/O not letting gas thru.
Remedy? Shorten the pin? Shim it where?
Thanks in advance.Comment
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Seems to be a common occurance...should be the o/o. Shortening the pin and shimming between the RT halves have the same effect. I guess there must be some missing length somewhere between the sear travel and the body thickness in the 'classic' mags. I don't remember the thickness of the on shims, but the 0.712 pin works in at least some of the classic valves.Originally posted by DaFin
Just for the record, what kind of body and bolt is this on?Comment
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Standard SS PF body, AIR valve and the original level 7 bolt.
I'll try shimming the middle of the O/O with level 10 shims and see what happens.Comment
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Was the gun firing before you changed pins? Check that the trigger rod is a the correct adjustment. Is the velocity setting high enough? Bolt stick?Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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The gun was/is rock solid with the old O/O and the RT o/o pin is roughly the same length as the stock one. No dial caliper to get a closer read, sorry.
I put two level 10 shims under the big o-ring on the bottom of the o/o and got no change, still airs up, tension on the sear but won't actually fire.
Suggestions? Am I putting the shims in the right place?Comment
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try adjusting the velocity a little. i had this problem when tuning my lvl 10. just a thought.Comment
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Put the shims between the two halves of the on-off.
As suggested, double check to make sure you have the velocity adjusted high enough.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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