My Mag Plan (conventional upgrades)

[glaman5266]

I have a Classic mag that I just got a bunch of parts for. It currently has the stock Classic valve, polished Minimag body, stock barrel, stock frame, VA w/Perfect expansion chamber and a mini-drop w/duckbill ASA.
I was thinking on sticking with the Classic valve for the co2 option (I still use co2 in half of my markers). I'd like to stick with the stock mechanical frame but I also want the RT function. Is this possible?
My current list of upgrades consists of the ULT, RT on/off, and the Lv. 10 bolt. A ULE body is also on that list, but will probably be the last thing to get. Any tips/suggestions for the trigger setup? I LOVE the response trigger function- how can I obtain this (or something walkable) with a Classic valve (if possible)? Any other Classic-specific tips/suggestions?

Side question: What exactly would I need for a pump mag? A pump conversion has also been on my mind.

[flyingpootang]

ULTs don't work well in classic valves. Your better off with a RT on/off and a .750 pin. Its more of a constant light trigger pull all though not quite walkable. To obtain a rt effect you'll need a RT, emag, x, emax type valve. To get massive bounce or run away you'll also need an adjustable output tank. These RT type valves can not use CO2.

[flyingpootang]

The best solution may be to pick up a used emag or RT valve (not classic RT) for @ 100.00 and swap out valves when needed.

[glaman5266]

I'll keep my eyes peeled for an RT on/off. And what do you mean, a .750 pin?

I know the RT/X/Emag valves can't take co2. That's why I was wanting to stick w/the Classic for a while. Besides that, money's tight- I can't drop 100 bucks on a used valve.
I'll be saving up for a Lv. 10 bolt once I find a RT on/off. I can live w/the Classic valve and no RT function for a while and that bolt seems to be one of the best upgrades.

[Coralis]

Your best bet is try and find a E grip or Pnuematic grip if you want to keep your classic try Lukes customs http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0023.htm or do a search on ebay for a hyperframe or go to the bottom of the page and search for hyperframes spydermags or pnumags for sale in the BST part of these forums (note you will need a ult for these options)

[Smoothice]

I'll keep my eyes peeled for an RT on/off. And what do you mean, a .750 pin?

I know the RT/X/Emag valves can't take co2. That's why I was wanting to stick w/the Classic for a while. Besides that, money's tight- I can't drop 100 bucks on a used valve.
I'll be saving up for a Lv. 10 bolt once I find a RT on/off. I can live w/the Classic valve and no RT function for a while and that bolt seems to be one of the best upgrades.

Do you currently experience chopping with your mag? If not then you do not need the level 10 bolt. I repeat you do not need the level 10.

All the level 10 bolt does is stop chopping. Most likely if you have a motorized hopper you will not be able to shoot a classic valve fast enough to need the level 10 bolt. Unless you put an e trigger or pneumag trigger on it. The level 10 bolt will also decrease gas efficiency (so I have heard).

The RT on/off is going to give you a SLIGHTLY lighter trigger pull. Not light enough to be walkable or increase your rate of fire to need a level 10 bolt. Also, the rt on/off uses orings that are not meant for co2. Not sure if this will give you a problem while using co2 or not.

The .750 pin is the pin that goes in your rt on/off. .750 refers to the length of the pin.

I found that i had the lightest trigger pull when I put on a double trigger frame. I used the dye double trigger frame. There is also the intelli frame and a benchmark frame. Probably a few others also.

I would highly recommend the intelli frame then the dye then the benchmark.

If you are handy you could do the pneumag mod or e-trigger mod. Either of these mods would give you the highest bps out of a classic valve. Both of these mods would be easier with an intelliframe.

[Smoothice]

Your best bet is try and find a E grip or Pnuematic grip if you want to keep your classic try Lukes customs http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0023.htm or do a search on ebay for a hyperframe or go to the bottom of the page and search for hyperframes spydermags or pnumags for sale in the BST part of these forums (note you will need a ult for these options)

I did not need a ult for my pneumag. It is a classic valve with an rt on/off. It is very walkable Just ask d4m4don3 or shingo.

[wjr]

I did not need a ult for my pneumag. It is a classic valve with an rt on/off. It is very walkable Just ask d4m4don3 or shingo.

I can vouch for him on that statement. My classic with an RT on/off was very nice indeed.

[Tao]

I did not need a ult for my pneumag. It is a classic valve with an rt on/off. It is very walkable Just ask d4m4don3 or shingo.

How is shoot down with that valve? I always figure that the classic valve would hold up as a medium level valve for high rates of fire.

[glaman5266]

Do you currently experience chopping with your mag? If not then you do not need the level 10 bolt. I repeat you do not need the level 10.

All the level 10 bolt does is stop chopping. Most likely if you have a motorized hopper you will not be able to shoot a classic valve fast enough to need the level 10 bolt. Unless you put an e trigger or pneumag trigger on it. The level 10 bolt will also decrease gas efficiency (so I have heard).

The RT on/off is going to give you a SLIGHTLY lighter trigger pull. Not light enough to be walkable or increase your rate of fire to need a level 10 bolt. Also, the rt on/off uses orings that are not meant for co2. Not sure if this will give you a problem while using co2 or not.

The .750 pin is the pin that goes in your rt on/off. .750 refers to the length of the pin.

I found that i had the lightest trigger pull when I put on a double trigger frame. I used the dye double trigger frame. There is also the intelli frame and a benchmark frame. Probably a few others also.

I would highly recommend the intelli frame then the dye then the benchmark.

If you are handy you could do the pneumag mod or e-trigger mod. Either of these mods would give you the highest bps out of a classic valve. Both of these mods would be easier with an intelliframe.

I do not experience chopping. I use a Revvy w/X-board on it. Now that you say that, I'm wondering why I didn't see that earlier.

I won't primarily use co2, but the need might arise where I'd need to use it for a game or two (if an HPA tank doesn't pass hydro and I need $$ for a new one or if I lend one out). I primarily use HPA in about half of my markers, including my Mag.

After using my Mag for our first week of our local league, I am seriously considering an Intelliframe. The RT on/off and Intelliframe are all I could really use right now...

[TrracerAce]

I would also vastly recommend an Intelliframe over anything else that's not a custom job by one of our fine resident airsmiths. Both the Dye and Benchy have glaring design flaws that the Intelli seemed to learn from and rectify. Plus it just feels sturdier than either.

I'm looking at an RT on/off too. Think a Classic Valve with an RT on/off and a pneumag conversion would make my setup walkable?