Bought a cheap classic valve with a level 10. It leaks out the front and the bolt won't go all the way back. If I take the spacer out, it's fine, and touches the bumper, If I leave the spacer in, there's about a 1/8 inch gap between the bolt and the spacer.
-
-
are you sure there is only one oring down in the powertube? Make sure the powertube tip isnt mangled...let me know. -
Everything looks fine, I'm going to try the bolt on one of my xvalves later. I going to see a buddy of mine that has a classic tomorrow and will grab a level 7 spacer to test out a level 7 bolt that I have with it.Originally posted by TunamanComment
-
Originally posted by robnix
What "spacer" do you speak of?
There should be a delrin washer, a (sized) O ring carrier (with a power tube O ring in it) shims, then the LX power tube tip screwed into the valve's power tube.
Comment
-
I mean the delrin washer. It's assembled exactly like you state, no shims though.Originally posted by RussComment
-
Make sure the L10 bolt stem isn't coming out.Comment
-
It's definitely something with the valve. I put the bolt on the X Valve from my emag and it fits fine, the bolt from the Emag has the same issue on when I put it on the classic.Originally posted by TunamanComment
-
rental valve?Comment
-
Don't know. The person I bought it from polished it, there's no markings.Originally posted by FinchManComment
-
Originally posted by robnix
Hmmm, that's a bad sign. There's no knowing WHAT's been done with that thing!Comment
-
Take all the Orings , spacers/carriers out of the power tube and then put the level 10 in and see if it will go all the way in or if it bottoms out , if it bottoms out it is either and old level 6 valve or a rental valve and will not take a level 10 unless it is drilled out ( i had the same problem ended up getting a valve off ebay for 50 bucks and sold my rental valve for 25 ) I always wondered if you cut of part of the xvalve so that it wouldnt bottom out but was too chicken to try .Comment
Comment