Level 10 hitting harder now?

[warpfeedmod]

I assume it's either worn o-rings or spring or something? This was installed and tech'd by AGD when they first came out, aside from the usual oil and use of the marker (every summer season) it's been fine. But as of recently I've noticed the level 10 seems to be hitting harder (when I put my finger in the breach), than usual and I believe this might be causing the paint breaks in the marker I've been experiencing.

What are the usual causes for this? I would assume maybe the carrier o-ring or do I need a lighter spring? I keep the input pressure around 850-900 (any lower and the marker either chuffs and doesn't reset the bolt or short-strokes alot).

I'm not sure what carrier or spring is in there (I do know the tech cut it tho), but it is hitting harder.

What can I do to fix it?


Thanks in advance!

[Spider-TW]

If it doesn't leak and the bolt resets right and doesn't stick, leave the shims and carrier alone. It sounds like your bolt spring has gotten weaker, or your playing with your velocity a little higher. You should try a stronger (or just newer) spring.

If you have a new one of the same kind that is in your marker, take the old one out and stand them up side by side. You should be able to see a height difference, with the old one being shorter.

[Russ]

If it doesn't leak and the bolt resets right and doesn't stick, leave the shims and carrier alone. It sounds like your bolt spring has gotten weaker...

+1

replace the spring with a NEW one of the same "size"

[warpfeedmod]

I'll have to dig out my springs and see if I've got the same one. If the bolt is "weaker" wouldn't it not be able to return the bolt back and cause a leak tho? Possibly making it hit softer?

Or am I not quite grasping the concept of how the Level 10 works?

[Spider-TW]

I know what you mean, it is kind of backwards at first.

The pressure in the valve body is set by the reg and filled by the on/off when the bolt is locked by the sear. When the bolt is released the spring is pushing it back and the gas pressure is pushing it forward (and the on/off is closed).

If the spring gets weaker, it doesn't push against the bolt as much any more, giving the bolt a little more forward force from the same gas pressure. This should be a slow progression over several thousand rounds, but some people think that they may get some spring creep in storage which may be true especially of the longer springs that you preload just by installing the valve in the body.

This is also why it is important to chrony your marker when you are trying to tune a level 10. Changes in reg pressure and velocity affect how much forward force you get that get balanced by the spring and the oring drag.

Yes?

[Walrus]

Well, the bolt spring is resposible for resetting the bolt, but it also does offer some resistance when the bolt is moving forward. The spring should be strong enough to reset the bolt, but if it has gotten weaker and is not offering as much resistance on the bolt when moving forward then it would seem to be causing the bolt to be hitting harder. As long as when an abstruction is between the bolt and the breech then you should hear the lvl10 vent as it hits the obstruction. If it isn't venting, then your lvl10 isn't working right and you will need to work on it.

Lastly make sure you still have the foamie on the bolt and that you are shooting below 300fps. Between 280-290 is perfect.

EDIT: Sorry, Spyder-TW got his response in before me. Darn phone calls!

[warpfeedmod]

Foamie is gone, I do have som replacements, how should I glue those on there?

Also it is venting and "chuffing" when I put my finger in there, but I notice sometimes as well that the bolt doesn't reset until I pull the trigger again, is that correct?

I've not yet found my extra springs, hopefully I can find one or maybe ill have to see if the local shop still carries them. I should need a "softer" spring than what I've got on there?

Meaning if I compress it in my fingers, compared to the current spring I'd want it to compress a tad easier? OR do I want a harder spring that will offer more resistance to the bolt being pushed forward by the air pressure, thus lowering the pinch pressure?

[Spider-TW]

Sounds like you need more spring (stronger) than what you have now. Start with a new one on the same kind if you can. Or just try the longer one from a Lvl 10 kit.

It would help both the force on the ball and the reset problem.

[warpfeedmod]

Yeah that's what I'll try. How do I go about gluing the foamie back on?

[Spider-TW]

I think super glue is the standard. Clean the surfaces with some alcohol and let dry first. Use a new foamy if you got it.

[warpfeedmod]

I think super glue is the standard. Clean the surfaces with some alcohol and let dry first. Use a new foamy if you got it.

Yeah I got like 2 or three new ones with the rebuild kit I got. One thing I did notice is the replacement foamies are not really "foam" so much as they're a rubbery material? The old one is more of a foam (think packing foam or seat-cushion foam).

[athomas]

Yeah I got like 2 or three new ones with the rebuild kit I got. One thing I did notice is the replacement foamies are not really "foam" so much as they're a rubbery material? The old one is more of a foam (think packing foam or seat-cushion foam).

They are neoprene.

[warpfeedmod]

I actually couldn't find my foamie tips but I played the whole day without it and it was fine. I went to the longest spring I had (a bit longer than the one that was in there) and it still seemed to pinch my finger, but worked flawless the entire day. Thanks to all for the input and I'm glad I got it figured out!

[dsrkd]

Foamies help with alignining the paintball in the breech, so you should use one.

Use a 2 part epoxy to adhere it to the bolt (the same for the bumper by the way, makes it last way longer).