hyperframe just crapped out

[dizzle]

i have searched about 4000000000000 times every hyperframe thread on AO,and i cant figure out what i need to do.




first,my set up...
retro valve,stock on/off(i think)
level ten
micromag
20 bps hyperframe

second,my problem
ok so i know its pretty much a crapshoot to get one of these to work without ULT,but when i first got it together it worked awesome...except for the full auto mode(it would only fire one shot per trigger pull).Until two days ago i was playing in a scenario at my home feild,and it was doing fine for the first 4 or so hours then all of a sudden it just quit firing.....the solenoid was working(not moving but i could hear it try to move)but no shot.I just picked up my other gun and finished the day under the assumption the battery was getting weak.

so i pop another fresh energizer in and still no fire??????i mean it fires once in a while but,mostly will not.


the micro cycles manually just fine,the level ten is tuned to a "T",fresh battery,i sanded the plunger,the noid has not shifted,and i have my settings set to what is posted in the hyperframe FAQ.....



i know this is like kicking a dead horse,and this has been brought up so many times,but i would really like to get it working.THANKS IN ADVANCE

[nevtangle]

i have searched about 4000000000000 times every hyperframe thread on AO,and i cant figure out what i need to do.




first,my set up...
retro valve,stock on/off(i think)
level ten
micromag
20 bps hyperframe

second,my problem
ok so i know its pretty much a crapshoot to get one of these to work without ULT,but when i first got it together it worked awesome...except for the full auto mode(it would only fire one shot per trigger pull).Until two days ago i was playing in a scenario at my home feild,and it was doing fine for the first 4 or so hours then all of a sudden it just quit firing.....the solenoid was working(not moving but i could hear it try to move)but no shot.I just picked up my other gun and finished the day under the assumption the battery was getting weak.

so i pop another fresh energizer in and still no fire??????i mean it fires once in a while but,mostly will not.


the micro cycles manually just fine,the level ten is tuned to a "T",fresh battery,i sanded the plunger,the noid has not shifted,and i have my settings set to what is posted in the hyperframe FAQ.....



i know this is like kicking a dead horse,and this has been brought up so many times,but i would really like to get it working.THANKS IN ADVANCE

Sounds like you need an ULT. I didn't know the HF noid was strong enough to overcome the force of the rt on/off.

[dizzle]

yeah(should have got an x-valve)....what is the success ratio for modding a retro valve to fit the ULT?i would probably be better off selling the retro and getting an x-valve.


here i was thinking i was all cool by getting the HF to work without ULT

[dizzle]

WAIT A MINUTE...i did raise my velocity about 20-25 fps(was 270 raised to 293,294,295).Could it be that the small change in pressure would have made the on/off too stiif for the noid?im gonna try to lower my velocity and see if that helps

[Coralis]

I had a similar problem with my classic valve ... i was using a RT on/off for a while and it worked great then poof one day it just stopped. I ended up putting a ult in there and never looked back.

[flyingpootang]

I've used an RT valve with a .750 pin and had no problems. My settings are 5/1/5. Remove the valve, use the leg of a ball point pen cap ontop of the sear to test fire your mag. If your noid is weal you'll be able to feel it.

[dizzle]

lowered my velocity....still no fire but its a little better.I will try 5-1-5 to see if that works

[flyingpootang]

lowered my velocity....still no fire but its a little better.I will try 5-1-5 to see if that works

The first setting is amount of energy to the noid, the second is Debounce, the third is Dwell. Also chek the 4 set screws ontop of the noid for tighness. With the marker aired up and the on/off reset (ready to fire/sear leg to the rear of the grip frame (push back to check its fully seated)) there should be a 1/16~1/8" gap between the noid activation rod and the sear leg. The space is needed to allow the noid to pick up speed and hit the leg with enough force. Also I just upgraded my board to an WAS A-5 tippmann board with PSP/NXL/MIL and wow what a differance. I would probably recommend a APE board though because the WAS seems to be very sensative to bouncing, but a v3 Spyder board will also work. If you need pics or advice on how to mod your frame pm me....

[Coralis]

What do you think about the Scenario dreams T boards ??

[flyingpootang]

What do you think about the Scenario dreams T boards ??

It's a good board especialy the new v3 because it comes with multi modes, trigger programeable, difficult to navigate the menues (loose your place) take time to get used to, the WAS is very no nonsence and very user friendly and trigger programable and only 4 menues, & the APE program by pushing the mod buttons (ehh) multi menues easy to navigate.

My choice is the WAS wickedairsportz.com
<a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5305078"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/4/11400152243.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>
<a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5305077"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/4/11400152146.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>

[dizzle]

what solenoid are you using for that board

[flyingpootang]

Stock centerflag, but foran extra 10 bucks it dosen't hurt to order your board with on attached. A word of advice is not to desolder the wires off the board, but instead cut the wire in the middle and then solder the wires together. The wire holes are @ 22awg and a pain to solder wires to the board.

[commrad]

I have a T-board in my HF and I love it, only prob, about 30 minutes ago the LED crapped out on me, only has 3 colors now blue no longer exists as well as white teal and everythign but green red and yellow, even bigger prob, when it's one of those 3 colors, it's the wrong color for what your doing. oh well, it shoots fine and I remeber the order everything is in so it's still ok for me

[flyingpootang]

Leds shoudn't burn out they have a 10 life span left on. I would email Damon frim scenario dreams. I'm shure he would replace the board for you. Don't worry about modding it into a Hyperframe. He posted other mods that where done in other markers.

[Jaan]

A word of advice is not to desolder the wires off the board, but instead cut the wire in the middle and then solder the wires together. The wire holes are @ 22awg and a pain to solder wires to the board.

It's not that hard to re-solder the wires to the board, I would recommend doing it that way if you have the skills...however, if you insist on cutting the wires, cut them staggered, not both in the same place. That way if the insulation in the splice comes off some day, they won't short out against each other but also you don't end up with two big lumps right next to each other. It's just good practice.