Emag Newbie Help

[blake20]

I just purchased an EMAG from a dealer that had it setting on the shelf for a couple of years. The serial # is 136. I've checked the battery and it seems to be trashed, so I ordered a new one. charger seems to work ok. checked and pushing about 23 v. Now my questions is on software. I have the original software and I have seen people talking about upgrades. Do I have to send it in or what? If anyone has any info that I need to know I would appreciate it. I love my Xvalved mag and I hope this one works as well.

Thanks
Blake

[phizz]

To upgrade your software contact this guy http://www.niedtech.com/index.php he has the module that you can buy and the programs to flash your own marker. I also am not sure if that emag will have a lvl 10 bolt you might want to check that out as well.

[Tao]

It depends what you like in your software. What version is it? 3.2? earlier? Earlier versions had a game timer and burst mode which are cool, but capped at 16bps max fire rate. 3.2 doesn't have the extra features, but has a cap of 20 bps. 3.2 is all that AGD will flash your board to.

You can get Xmod from the link given for $100 or so. This gives a cap of 31bps and various firing modes such as full auto.

[Dark Side]

Go Xmod. Simple as that. I'll never go back to any other.

[flyingpootang]

Xmod is great, but I wouldn't go above 20bps because of the mechanical limits of the noid/plunger. Anything above 18 ramping is getting dangerous anyway...

[dropzone]

This is one of the very first E-mags ever made, Serial # 0000136. The software version is 1.7 and it has a lv.7 bolt. He got it for a steal off E-bay from a mom and pop paintball store. Still had the original box, blank warranty card and everything. It even still had the original price tag sticker on the box, 1,139.00.

[blake20]

Printing Off Manual

JUST GOT THE MANUAL FROM NIEDTECH. THANKS GUYS FOR THE INPUT ANYTHING ELSE I NEED TO KNOW I WOULD APPRECIATE IT. FOUND OUT THE BATTERY IS TRASHED BUT FOR THE PRICE I CAN'T COMPLAIN. I ALREADY HAVE A LEVEL 10 TO PUT ON IT. DROP ZONE DOESN'T THINK HE'S PUTTING IT IN, BUT??????

[athomas]

... FOUND OUT THE BATTERY IS TRASHED BUT FOR THE PRICE I CAN'T COMPLAIN. ..

AAA cells are cheap these days. Get 14 new NiMh 1000ma
cells and build your own battery pack. Using the 1000ma cells you will have even more capacity than the older 650ma cells of the original battery pack.

[blake20]

AAA cells are cheap these days. Get 14 new NiMh 1000ma
cells and build your own battery pack. Using the 1000ma cells you will have even more capacity than the older 650ma cells of the original battery pack.

how do you connect the cells? soldering iron or butane torch. also where do you find batteries radio shack is expensive!!!!

[promethion]

Ya I would like to know how you had those put together too.. I know I need a new battery and would like to know how to assemble them too.







IRONMAG

[athomas]

There are a couple of ways to fasten the batteries together. The one most have easy access to is soldering. I actually butted the batteries together and soldered them using a low temperature solder. Low temp solder allows a faster connection. You can also use thin metal tabs and solder or sput weld them onto the ends of the batteries and then join the tabs after. This is the easiest if you have access to thin tabs.

Sput welding works well and is fast if you know how to do it. It is a process of using controlled voltage and current to weld a joint. You essentially charge up a large capacitor with the desired voltage, fasten one of the leads to one of the surfaces you want to weld to and the other lead to the other surface. When you touch the two surfaces together it creates an instantaneous hot spot where the two items melt and become one. There isn't enough capacity in the capacitor to cause complete destruction if done right, so you get a controlled weld.

Batteries are available online at a lot of places quite cheaply. Ebay is a good source. There are probably lots of battery places close to where you live as well. You need 14 AAA NiMh cells. Ideally you should get ones that are flat on both ends, but that is not always possible. The flat ends allow you to have more space for joints. The ones with a tip on one end, take up more space and allow less room for error. Your battery pack will be tight in your battery holder, but it will still fit if done right.

[blake20]

Thanks for the info. I have a spot welder but I'm sure that it runs way to many amps. It will do 2 pcs 16 ga. I had heard that soldering iron will ruin the batteries? Any truth to that?

[athomas]

If you solder correctly, you will be fine. The secret is to not let the battery get hot. Heat kills batteries. That is why you want to use low temperature solder. It allows you to solder faster and at a lower temperature. I actually keep my temperature high using the low temp solder. It only takes a second to melt the solder and make a good joint on the end of the battery. The small amount of time for heat contact hardly raises the temp of the cell at all.

[blake20]

Still newbie

Guys thanks for all your help

[Walrus]

You can also take your old battery to a store like Batteries Plus and have them make you a new one. They will have to take your old pack apart to build the new one (to reuse the +- connectors on the top), but at least they can make you a good one for cheap!