Dry shooting works, but doesn't shoot with paint!?

[Demp1404]

I have an automag that has a retrovalve and a lvl 10, I talked to tunaman to get that all set up, I test fire it without paint and it shoot spectacular, I go to put paint in my egg and it doesn't shoot!? It sounds like the paint isnt down in there and the level 10 is refusing to project the ball far enough out of the barrel.


Any suggestions? Thanks in advance

[Demp1404]

Anyone got any suggestions? I am dumbfounded, and of course noone around me knows anything about Automags because they aren't really sold here. I traded an old autococker for the thing because of the reliablility factor with automags. It just doesnt shoot when I try to put paint through it, I have an electric hopper on it, and it shot great. I am just confused. Shoots great without paint.

Anyone?

Thanks

[mstrdbz]

It sound like your lvl 10 is tuned too light. A simple test you can do is drop a single paintball in to the feedneck and see if it will shoot.

Edit: Whet kind of tank are you using - HP or LP?

[Pzippy]

If you're using an LP tank, you need a HP tank.

[DaFin]

Go to a lighter spring on your bolt. The additional friction of pushing the ball is more than the air charge can handle. Lower the overall resistance by lowering how much the spring is adding. There are three springs in a level 10 kit; a full gold spring(the stiffest), a cut gold spring (medium stiff) and a red spring (the lightest). You want to put in the stiffest spring with which the marker will still cycle with paint.

And just in case you are using an old school J&J rifled barrel, you can't with a level 10. The OD of the bolt is larger than the ID of the rifling.

I'm not the end-all-be-all for level 10 set ups but give it a shot and maybe someone mightier than I can help if that does not work.

Best,

[nevtangle]

There are three springs in a level 10 kit; a full gold spring(the stiffest), a cut gold spring (medium stiff) and a red spring (the lightest).

Are you sure about that?

When I got my xvalve I got a short gold spring (lightest), red spring (middle), and a long grey metalic spring (stiffest).

Either way, you'll have a short and long and the red should be the middle spring. Most people have the best luck with this one.

[DaFin]

Maybe so ===> "I'm not the end-all-be-all for level 10 set ups but give it a shot and maybe someone mightier than I can help if that does not work."

Just trying to help the lad.

[Demp1404]

Hey thanks for all of the ideas guys, I am really wanting to get this gun back to working properly, so I am going to play around with the springs tomorrow, I will just try out each one. Anyone satisfied with their gun? I have an Ion, phantom, and an automag, Just trying to think if I should sell one or not.

Thanks again guys

I didn't think anyone was going to respond to my post. I have been furiated with this thing. My cousin has an automag with retro valve and has the bolt under the lvl 10 and it shoots great. For some reason his is much quiter, not sure why. But anyways His automag was flawless when I saw his all put together. Of course mine should be a lot better with this lvl 10. It's just so tricky to tune it. I talked to tunaman on here about it over the phone. He knew exactly what to do and where to look to see the problems with my valve and lvl 10.

Thanks once again guys. Automags are the best after you figure them all out that is. lol

[Demp1404]

Are you sure about that?

When I got my xvalve I got a short gold spring (lightest), red spring (middle), and a long grey metalic spring (stiffest).

Either way, you'll have a short and long and the red should be the middle spring. Most people have the best luck with this one.

I am pretty sure I am using the middle spring, I'll just play around with each one, I just can't believe that it will dry fire but it wont shoot with paint in it, I hear it wanting to shoot but it sounds like when you stick your finger in the chamber, it sounds like it bounces right off the paintball.

You guys are a life saver, never thought to try to change the spring. I already took care of the leak after using the lvl 10(changed the carrier size).

Thanks

[Nick E]

I'm sure you've tried this, but just in case, try turning your velocity up...dryfiring needs less pressure than actually shooting paint...In my level ten, the long siler spring is super stiff, the red one is less stiff, and the gold one is the weakest. I'm not sure where a level 7 spring goes in, but it will be lighter than the red spring..
Try those, and play with the velocity..

[Demp1404]

I'm sure you've tried this, but just in case, try turning your velocity up...dryfiring needs less pressure than actually shooting paint...In my level ten, the long siler spring is super stiff, the red one is less stiff, and the gold one is the weakest. I'm not sure where a level 7 spring goes in, but it will be lighter than the red spring..
Try those, and play with the velocity..

Alright thanks I will mess around with the springs and velocity, didnt have time today, want to get this stuff ready for the big scenerio game comin up in a few weeks.

Hopefully I can get this lvl 10 to work.

L8er guys

[phizz]

Maybe take some shims out, or add shims they are what affects when the bolt vents and springs back when it hits something.

[Spider-TW]

For some reason his is much quiter, not sure why.

Power feeds add to the noise, but whether you have one or not, try a (different) ported barrel between 12 and 16 inches. They help a lot and the style of the ports makes some difference.

[Demp1404]

Power feeds add to the noise, but whether you have one or not, try a (different) ported barrel between 12 and 16 inches. They help a lot and the style of the ports makes some difference.

alright thanks, I dont think I put any shims in the thing to begin with, but that will be last resort as for right now, I am going to try a J & J barrel, and try the different springs.

Thanks for your input guys.

L8er