Breaking and loading 2 balls at once?

[kamenter10]

I would like an answer to a couple of my questions i have about my automag classic.

1-why is it loading and shooting 2+ balls at once?

2-why does my gun break some balls?

3-can you hook the warp feed to your belt?

4-is there some sort of trigger system for the automag to shoot faster?

5-would you recommend the phase II or the retro valve?

Thanks for your time and please post comments and answer my questions.

[Dark Side]

I would like an answer to a couple of my questions i have about my automag classic.

1-why is it loading and shooting 2+ balls at once?

2-why does my gun break some balls?

3-can you hook the warp feed to your belt?

4-is there some sort of trigger system for the automag to shoot faster?

5-would you recommend the phase II or the retro valve?

Thanks for your time and please post comments and answer my questions.

1. What type of loader are you using? You nubbins may be bad. I assume you still are using twist lock barrels.

2. Happens to they best of us. Sometimes it's crappy paint, some times people short stroke the gun.

3. I've seen a back pack version, so if you are so inclined to modify it...

4. It's more in the valve than in the trigger, but there is a sear mod that can be done.

5. The Retro will give you more reactivity. and will allow you to walk the trigger once you learn the right movement. You are better off getting a Xvalve though. They come with the Lvl 10 bolt.

[reckid1986]

pmed you on a faster trigger frame: pneumag frame

[athomas]

I would like an answer to a couple of my questions i have about my automag classic.

1-why is it loading and shooting 2+ balls at once?

2-why does my gun break some balls?

3-can you hook the warp feed to your belt?

4-is there some sort of trigger system for the automag to shoot faster?

5-would you recommend the phase II or the retro valve?

Thanks for your time and please post comments and answer my questions.

1. Most likely bad nubbins or detents allowing more than 1 ball into the barrel.

2. See #1. Also, even if the nubbins are working, balls that are too big for the bore are going to be more apt to break.

3. It would take some modification, but I suppose you could.

4. An aftermarket electronic trigger frame would make it easier to achieve a higher rate of fire. A retro valve helps achieve a faster rate of fire in manual mode due to a reactive trigger.

5. A Phase II back is just a classic back with a few extra holes. It doesn't do anything. A phase II on-off is like the retro on-off to an extent. If I was going to use a modified on-off, I would use a retro on-off in a classic valve. It would cut your trigger pull force in half.

[kamenter10]

1. What type of loader are you using? You nubbins may be bad. I assume you still are using twist lock barrels.

2. Happens to they best of us. Sometimes it's crappy paint, some times people short stroke the gun.

3. I've seen a back pack version, so if you are so inclined to modify it...

4. It's more in the valve than in the trigger, but there is a sear mod that can be done.

5. The Retro will give you more reactivity. and will allow you to walk the trigger once you learn the right movement. You are better off getting a Xvalve though. They come with the Lvl 10 bolt.

1-an electric hopper vibrates everytime i shoot, how do i fix the nubbins?, ya i am using both twist lock..is that bad?

2-ya short stroke is what a couple of ppl told me..is there a way to learn it better or fix it??

3-i was just wondering if i get a faster trigger would i need the warp or?

4-ok but would a dye trigger fit on a mag? u know how they shoot as fast as an auto..i am getting into tourneys and wanted to upgrade my rate of fire

5-i was thinking about getting the xvalve, but i heard they take more air and the shots dont go as far?

THANKS!

[kamenter10]

1. Most likely bad nubbins or detents allowing more than 1 ball into the barrel.

2. See #1. Also, even if the nubbins are working, balls that are too big for the bore are going to be more apt to break.

3. It would take some modification, but I suppose you could.

4. An aftermarket electronic trigger frame would make it easier to achieve a higher rate of fire. A retro valve helps achieve a faster rate of fire in manual mode due to a reactive trigger.

5. A Phase II back is just a classic back with a few extra holes. It doesn't do anything. A phase II on-off is like the retro on-off to an extent. If I was going to use a modified on-off, I would use a retro on-off in a classic valve. It would cut your trigger pull force in half.

1-how do i fix the nubbins then?


4-is there any made by airguns designs or?

5-i heard if you use the retro valve it goes way slower?..

THANKS

[athomas]

1-how do i fix the nubbins then?


4-is there any made by airguns designs or?

5-i heard if you use the retro valve it goes way slower?..

THANKS

Replace the older metal nubbins with the newer plastic ones. If the barrel fits properly, they should stick far enough into the barrel to prevent double feeds. If the barrel is a bit loose, then you can put a bit of tape behind the back of the little knob on the back of the nubbin and hold it in place with a wrap of tape around the barrel. that works quite well.

Airgun Designs never made an aftermarket electronic trigger frame. They did make a nice emag though. There are a few aftermarket trigger frames around in the for sale forums. Some of the dealers in the dealer section make electronic frames as well.

The retro valve on-off assembly won't slow down your gun. The top of the on-off pin is the same size as the standard on-off so it gets the same return force. Because of the reduced pull force required, if you don't release the trigger properly, your finger can prematurely re-pull the trigger too soon and short stroke the valve. As long as you properly pull and release the trigger, you will have no problems with the retro on-off.

The retro valve itself is much faster than the classic valve.