how am i still breaking balls?

[Joelus Morolus]

hello, i bought my tac one from the company and they tuned it and everything, then i had to move to a smaller carrier after about 3,000~ balls were fired through and i never had a ball break.

im currently shooting at 280fps
- a few (2-3) extra shims in my ULT
- the very smallest carrier with 2 level 10 shims
- i recently intellifed my revy to my grip with those radio shack parts
- i only shoot PMI Premium and it has been kept in a cool place, trust me its not the paint

now my problems are:
- possibly double feeding / firing 2 balls at once
- breaking a ball about 1/100 shots, but its not down the barrel because theres paint all over my level 10 bolt too and even in the threads of my feedneck but not in my hopper feedneck
- my trigger pull is fairly light so sometimes i 'walk' my trigger with two fingers and ball breaks mostly happen during this time, is it possible i am short stroking the trigger?
- or should i get a faster hopper / force fed hopper / ??? to keep up with firing rate?

what should i do to fix this problem using what you know about my current setup?

and question #2:

since im using the smallest carrier (no lines and no dots) what happens if i need to go down another carrier size in the future? am i screwed i dont understand what would happen if i had a nother leak and the carrier needed to go down one more...

thanks for your help, joelus

[Russ]

re-tune your LX. Try a stiffer return spring

[KC]

Try a new carrier o-ring. Yours could be worn down, and thus not putting enough friction on the bolt.

Also, make sure your on/off pin and reg body are oiled well. Take the reg part off the back of the valve assembly and oil the inside oring with a few drops.

[Russ]

Try a new carrier o-ring. Yours could be worn down, and thus not putting enough friction on the bolt.

Also, make sure your on/off pin and reg body are oiled well. Take the reg part off the back of the valve assembly and oil the inside oring with a few drops.

If it doesn't leak, leave the carrier alone...

...and what does oil have to do with breaking balls?

[Russ]

and question #2:

since im using the smallest carrier (no lines and no dots) what happens if i need to go down another carrier size in the future? am i screwed i dont understand what would happen if i had a nother leak and the carrier needed to go down one more...

thanks for your help, joelus

You would need to try another O ring. It has been my experience as of late that the power tube O rings AGD sells are on the "smal" side.

[KC]

If it doesn't leak, leave the carrier alone...

You can reduce the force on the ball by increasing tension on the bold with the carriers. If he is on his smallest carrier then there is a good chance his oring is worn out.

...and what does oil have to do with breaking balls?

If the seal is sticking a hot shot could break a ball or the on/off pin could cuase a burp fire (2shots) where one ball is fired with almost no air, and the next is fired at full velocity into first ball.

The only time my RT broke paint (besides bad paint) was when the reg or on/off were dry.

[Joelus Morolus]

ok, although i DO meticulously oil all my orings, i will keep this in mind, i did play an extra long scenario game when it happened so it might have needed some more halfway.

but i will probably keep posting if i have problems again..

and nobody thinks i need a faster hopper or anything eh? its all about the oil?

[Spider-TW]

Many people can out walk a revvy, or any gravity feed for that matter. That is how you are getting to the chop situation, but the lvl 10 should still stop the chop.

Search around the forums, but it sounds like your bolt spring has worn in and is now too light to keep the force on a trapped ball from being chopped. Try the next longer bolt spring to get the force down on the first 1/4" of bolt travel. Like Russ said, a stiffer spring.

It's not a very practical approach to try to squeeze the bolt with tighter carriers in order to lighten the force on the ball. If you shoot much between 'oilings', you will eventually run out of lubricant film on the bolt oring and the bolt will stick. The largest carrier that will support the hanging weight of the bolt is the best rule I have read yet. You can sometimes get away with the next larger carrier than that, but not consistently.

And yes, you will probably want something faster than a revvy anyway.

[sdlm_]

Yeah, either use a sitffer spring, or stretch your old one. every few years I stretch mine and I have had fine results. I also have done the same with my 1911 Magazines without much issue. With a stiff spring, my mag will refuse to shoot anything lower than the 2 carrier.

Also, make sure your dentent is alright, IIRC correctly the Tac one uses Angel Dentets, and while I have never had to rebuild/replace my Angel Dentents in My Angel (I have Warped Sprots Dentets and Cobra in my other one) I assume that with the metal bolt of the mag, it might be able to wear them down quicker.

I never knew a nonoiled mag could have problems like what was described, I learn something new everyday.

[athomas]

You can reduce the force on the ball by increasing tension on the bold with the carriers. If he is on his smallest carrier then there is a good chance his oring is worn out. .

This does not work. Always use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. If the smallest carrier leaks when no shims are used, then you need a new oring. There was a batch of orings that were a bit loose no matter what the carrier was. Maybe one is in use here.

If the seal is sticking a hot shot could break a ball or the on/off pin could cuase a burp fire (2shots) where one ball is fired with almost no air, and the next is fired at full velocity into first ball.

The increase in pressure would have to be quite significant. Unless you ran your mag dry for months, the oil residue remaining would allow the orings to work quite well on their own.


Joelus Morolus:

Double shots could be a problem if the detents are not working properly due to excessively small paint. A carrier that is too tight can cause the operating pressure to be higher than it should and would put a higher force on the ball when a chuff occurs.

If less chopping is preffered, use a stiffer spring.

I say find another carrier oring if you are using the smallest carrier and are having these problems.