Returning to the Family/design a mag

[FireFoxnz]

I have recently returned to paintball after a break for Uni.
After using hopper right 'Mag in the late 90s and loving its ease if use, idiot proof nature and perfectly reasonable ROF and comparing it to PMRs (et al.) on the market I have decided to buy a new 'Mag as my back up marker.

Basically I need help designing a mag that meets some constraints due to the under-developed nature of paintball in NZ, and I have no idea about all the modern 'Mag upgrades.
1) It must be CO2 compatable, running remote is fine (though a negative for cost reasons)
2) Ideally there would be multiple barrels available as paint quality ranges for rubbish to average (either via a main body or adaptor, I have 'cocker threads for everything else). Does CO2 cause problems with the ULE body?
3) Will a new hopper be needed? I have a Reloader B ATM.
4) Duel purpose: woodsball and speedball (so no Warpfeed etc)

Thanks in adavnce for the help

Steven

[MANN]

I would sugest a ule body and a classic valve. pick the rail and grip frame of your choice. Becasue you are wanting to use CO2 make sure you get a good expansion chamber, and you should be good to go.

[FiXeL]

[matteusz]

I have 6-7 mags and run them all on co2. At one point I was loaning out all 6 and so we had several tanks on the guns instead of remotes. With a lower rate of fire they were fine. I have two response frames and those guns in particular got liquid in the valves and didn't work with prolonged strings of fire. With the remote line they never do so long as it is above about 55-60 deg. Farenheit. The sure fire never have problems way to run a classic on CO2 in my opinion is an expansion chamber on the gun and remote line to a vertical tank. An anti siphon on gun setup (or angled asa) with an expansion also does just fine. Either way you can get a setup that is comfortable for you for about the same $. Another great thing to do is run the expansion on the remote line and keep the weight off the gun.

Short answer: Good expansion chamber, ULE body for cocker threads and whatever on the rail, trigger. So what man said. This is a great setup.

[C.J.]

Hello Steven! I'll address your specific points in order. BTW: I suggest you buy a used Classic Automag or Minimag and tweak as necessary. I got one for about $150 and put a bit more into it to make it perfect for my needs.

1) It must be CO2 compatable, running remote is fine (though a negative for cost reasons)

There are several issues surrounding CO2 compatibility and the Automag.

1. Valve type - you have to use a "Classic" valve which would be stamped "68 Automag," "MiniMag" or "68 Automag Classic". ReTro (RT) and X-Valves offer higher rates of fire but are not CO2 compatible because the internal pressure drop they experience during recharge liquifies gaseous CO2 instantly, freezing the valve. Stick with a Classic valve and you'll be fine.
   
2. liquid CO2 - even the Classic Valve won't function on liquid CO2. To keep liquid out of the system, you have the option of using a properly installed anti-siphon bottle, using the tank vertically (remote or on the vertical ASA on the marker) or angling the tank so that liquid stays at the bottom of the bottle, away from the tank valve. I use anti-siphon but, knowing what I know now, I'd rather use an angled ASA which would let me slap on "any old tank." As it is, I'm stuck with my tanks an if they malfunction, I'm out of the game.

If you use one of the above methods for keeping liquid out of the marker and add a Palmer Stabilizer regulator, you'll have an extremely consistent marker. If you can't fork out for the PPS Stab', an expansion chamber will add a bit of insurance in case you get liquid into the marker.


2) Ideally there would be multiple barrels available as paint quality ranges for rubbish to average (either via a main body or adaptor, I have 'cocker threads for everything else). Does CO2 cause problems with the ULE body?

ULE body is fine. I have the tactical version of it, the Tac-One body, which I like because I can put a sight and other gizmos on it. The ONLY Automag component that is sensitive to CO2 is the main valve, discussed in my points above.


3) Will a new hopper be needed? I have a Reloader B ATM.

In my opinion, no, you won't have an issue with the Halo. I use a gravity feed, 50 round hopper but I have a Ricochet AK in reserve for when I need to carry more paint on marker and rip a bit.

4) Duel purpose: woodsball and speedball (so no Warpfeed etc)

A 'mag will be suited well to both as it's accurate, light, quiet, reasonably fast and just plain tough as nails. If you decide to get really competitive, you might consider upgrading it with an RT valve and HPA so you can "shoot ropes" but unless you play on the pro-circuit, nobody's going to bust you up for using a Classic Mag. Heck, the local speedball team tried to recruit me today and even said "your gun's fine... we won't make you buy an electro."

[splashkitsrock420]

ide jsut put a palmer stableizer on the beast he says ya cant freeze up a mag with that reg on it...i so hate co2

Hello Steven! I'll address your specific points in order. BTW: I suggest you buy a used Classic Automag or Minimag and tweak as necessary. I got one for about $150 and put a bit more into it to make it perfect for my needs.

1) It must be CO2 compatable, running remote is fine (though a negative for cost reasons)

There are several issues surrounding CO2 compatibility and the Automag.

1. Valve type - you have to use a "Classic" valve which would be stamped "68 Automag," "MiniMag" or "68 Automag Classic". ReTro (RT) and X-Valves offer higher rates of fire but are not CO2 compatible because the internal pressure drop they experience during recharge liquifies gaseous CO2 instantly, freezing the valve. Stick with a Classic valve and you'll be fine.
   
2. liquid CO2 - even the Classic Valve won't function on liquid CO2. To keep liquid out of the system, you have the option of using a properly installed anti-siphon bottle, using the tank vertically (remote or on the vertical ASA on the marker) or angling the tank so that liquid stays at the bottom of the bottle, away from the tank valve. I use anti-siphon but, knowing what I know now, I'd rather use an angled ASA which would let me slap on "any old tank." As it is, I'm stuck with my tanks an if they malfunction, I'm out of the game.

If you use one of the above methods for keeping liquid out of the marker and add a Palmer Stabilizer regulator, you'll have an extremely consistent marker. If you can't fork out for the PPS Stab', an expansion chamber will add a bit of insurance in case you get liquid into the marker.


2) Ideally there would be multiple barrels available as paint quality ranges for rubbish to average (either via a main body or adaptor, I have 'cocker threads for everything else). Does CO2 cause problems with the ULE body?

ULE body is fine. I have the tactical version of it, the Tac-One body, which I like because I can put a sight and other gizmos on it. The ONLY Automag component that is sensitive to CO2 is the main valve, discussed in my points above.


3) Will a new hopper be needed? I have a Reloader B ATM.

In my opinion, no, you won't have an issue with the Halo. I use a gravity feed, 50 round hopper but I have a Ricochet AK in reserve for when I need to carry more paint on marker and rip a bit.

4) Duel purpose: woodsball and speedball (so no Warpfeed etc)

A 'mag will be suited well to both as it's accurate, light, quiet, reasonably fast and just plain tough as nails. If you decide to get really competitive, you might consider upgrading it with an RT valve and HPA so you can "shoot ropes" but unless you play on the pro-circuit, nobody's going to bust you up for using a Classic Mag. Heck, the local speedball team tried to recruit me today and even said "your gun's fine... we won't make you buy an electro."