I bought my 1st mag a classic i want to

[FOG]

Make it a r/t with a bps of about 13 to 15 bps, it has a classic valve p.f left, i may Qload it,not yet sure if i want to feed it lft or right, opinions? i do shoot left or right, but mostly rh.

My question is what do i need to do this ? also im going to want it cocker threaded at some
point so i can run a c.f barrel.

Im getting my x/mas wish list together so i need your guys opinions

Thanks,Fog

[angrysasquatch]

You need to buy a ReTro, X, RTPro or Emag valve to get RT. If you want it cocker threaded, your best bet would be to buy a ULE body. You can buy Warp left, right, or centre feed ULE bodies. If you're for sure going to use a Q-loader, buy a warp. Most right-handed shooters have it come out the left, but depending on where you're thinking of mounting it, that will change. If you want to change between a Q-loader and any regular type loader, buy a centre feed and a 90* adapter. Keep in mind that this is a comprimise, if you use a warp body then you can sight ovet the top of the gun, but not so much with a 90* adapter in the way. If you use a warp body, your rail may also need milling. I'm sure someone can come up with a list of rails that are warp compatible and which need milling.

Just to let you know, you may be better off buying a new gun and selling yours. A ReTro, emag, or stainless RTPro valve is probably around 100 (more if you wanted level 10/ ULT) whereas an aluminum RTPro or X is around 180 (?). A ULE body (you'd probably have to buy new if you wanted warp, there aren't many warp bodies out there) is 145 new.

[FOG]

You need to buy a ReTro, X, RTPro or Emag valve to get RT. If you want it cocker threaded, your best bet would be to buy a ULE body. You can buy Warp left, right, or centre feed ULE bodies. If you're for sure going to use a Q-loader, buy a warp. Most right-handed shooters have it come out the left, but depending on where you're thinking of mounting it, that will change. If you want to change between a Q-loader and any regular type loader, buy a centre feed and a 90* adapter. Keep in mind that this is a comprimise, if you use a warp body then you can sight ovet the top of the gun, but not so much with a 90* adapter in the way. If you use a warp body, your rail may also need milling. I'm sure someone can come up with a list of rails that are warp compatible and which need milling.

Just to let you know, you may be better off buying a new gun and selling yours. A ReTro, emag, or stainless RTPro valve is probably around 100 (more if you wanted level 10/ ULT) whereas an aluminum RTPro or X is around 180 (?). A ULE body (you'd probably have to buy new if you wanted warp, there aren't many warp bodies out there) is 145 new.

Thanks ! a pariah body was suggested to me, but i dont think the come lf or rt, only vert,
also considering a tac body those do come lf. rt.

Any suggestions on what to but 1st? this is gonna be a lil by lil project

[FOG]

HMMM , just buy a new gun is a better idea than UPPING the classic ,???

[olinar]

when your classic if fully upgrades you will probably have more than enough parts to build another classic. so you might as well just buy another.

you can order a brand new warp bodied tac one from tunaman, themagsmith, or rogue. im sure you can also go directly to the source and pick one up from AGD. it costs about $479 for a new tac one.