Angel frames

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  • Toll
    Registered User
    • Jun 2005
    • 758

    #1

    Angel frames

    So I'm plotting my EP mag and I got to thinking, what if I used an 04 speed frame? if I remember correctly they are roomy, they have holes for me to route the dye membrane pad. I believe they also line up correctly with the holes in the rail.

    My question is, does anyone have one I could steal dimensions off of? They aren't exactly plentiful but I believe they're pretty close to RPG chimera frames.
  • afortuna
    Red Ones Shoot Faster!
    • Jun 2005
    • 573

    #2
    Originally posted by Toll
    So I'm plotting my EP mag and I got to thinking, what if I used an 04 speed frame? if I remember correctly they are roomy, they have holes for me to route the dye membrane pad. I believe they also line up correctly with the holes in the rail.

    My question is, does anyone have one I could steal dimensions off of? They aren't exactly plentiful but I believe they're pretty close to RPG chimera frames.
    I think you have 2 issues with those frames:
    First, the screw holes don't line up.
    Second, you have to drill out space in the top of the frame for the sear to move.

    The modifications aren't that hard to do, so don't let it scare you away.

    Comment

    • p8ntbal4me
      No more UTBs!
      • Aug 2003
      • 2560

      #3
      Originally posted by Toll
      So I'm plotting my EP mag and I got to thinking, what if I used an 04 speed frame? if I remember correctly they are roomy, they have holes for me to route the dye membrane pad. I believe they also line up correctly with the holes in the rail.

      My question is, does anyone have one I could steal dimensions off of? They aren't exactly plentiful but I believe they're pretty close to RPG chimera frames.

      Hey Toll;

      Im actually doing this right now. I have a IR3/A4 vert frame as well as a RPG 07 Chimera frame Im EP'ing.

      What do you need for measurements?

      I had another one but I sent it away to get files drawn up for it in SW so I can play with the idea of maybe an newer frame thats EP/Angel friendly.

      Let me know.

      ~ P8nt
      _______________________
      Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard

      Comment

      • Toll
        Registered User
        • Jun 2005
        • 758

        #4
        Where'd you get your frame? I think the biggest obstacle in my way right now is the fact that I don't even know where to grab one right now. I figure if I find one being parted out it should be relatively cheap. I have a shocker frame on a pnuemag but I'd love a 90.


        Basically I'm looking for how it would line up to a standard rail/body/valve. I assume there's enough room in there for the noid/universal t.board but I don't know how well the actuator would fit. I guess what I'm gunning for is something along the lines of (if we were looking at it from the drivers side) the over all length, the position of the mounting holes, the total width and the "wall" width. In return I can throw over some shocker measurements if you like.

        Comment

        • p8ntbal4me
          No more UTBs!
          • Aug 2003
          • 2560

          #5
          Originally posted by Toll
          Where'd you get your frame? I think the biggest obstacle in my way right now is the fact that I don't even know where to grab one right now. I figure if I find one being parted out it should be relatively cheap. I have a shocker frame on a pnuemag but I'd love a 90.


          Basically I'm looking for how it would line up to a standard rail/body/valve. I assume there's enough room in there for the noid/universal t.board but I don't know how well the actuator would fit. I guess what I'm gunning for is something along the lines of (if we were looking at it from the drivers side) the over all length, the position of the mounting holes, the total width and the "wall" width. In return I can throw over some shocker measurements if you like.

          Well where I started with was the hole in the back of the frame to lin up with the valve screw.

          Then I looked at a Micro Mag body because it has the tightest front fore grip to grip frame mounting I have run on a mag. So I figured if I could use that as a starting point it might help.

          The next thing I did was noted I needed to cut/mill the section on the frame where the Angel vert ASA would match. Just to keep things in line for the finished product.

          Then I worked on the ram. I have Cyberrave68's MPA-3 ram as well as my own. I found the happy medium between the 2 and the place where the sear would fall in, then I marked that place out.

          I took the ram, matched it to the outside,.. then milled the frame towards the trigger to make it fit back to front. Then I used that cut as a guide to gain my depth to provide as much leverage on the sear as I could. I didnt run into the problem with the sear hitting the back of the frame but I milled it anyways for weight reduction.

          The problem I have now is the trigger. Unless you throw the frame forward into the alloted space for a fore grip, the trigger wont work. Right now mine touches the hose that runs up into the MPA-3.

          Right now Im waiting on a new noid (4 weeks) but will be smaller than the one I used last year in the EP mag and just as fast.

          If you want a frame,... search "IR3" on PBN or the like and you should find what your looking for. I got 2. One was 45 bucks and it came with a working board and grips.

          ~ P8nt
          _______________________
          Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard

          Comment

          • afortuna
            Red Ones Shoot Faster!
            • Jun 2005
            • 573

            #6
            The trigger spacing in that frame is an issue as was mentioned. Too much work for me with so little time. I still need to finish the Q for my pmag. My brother is really interested in dropping an Angel frame on for me, but I've already got the chimera. Granted, the Chimera is much bigger than the standard Angel frames. Well, best of luck and take lots of pictures.

            Comment

            • p8ntbal4me
              No more UTBs!
              • Aug 2003
              • 2560

              #7
              Side note while I am waiting on someone....

              ,.. when you drill for the holes to the frame, make sure you dont used the ones on the frame as it is now.

              One thing I found to be a complete PAIN was to use the back mount hole already there.

              It makes the milling inside the frame much more cumbersome and deeper toward the front of the frame. Best bet it to drill a hole behind the existing one and gain as much distance as you can.

              Line up a rail and sear and see where it falls,.. then trace a ram you are going to use on the side of the frame and take a look at the material needed to be cut.

              Its alot.

              ~ P8nt
              _______________________
              Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard

              Comment

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