Questions on Pneu

[mabb1975]

I bought a very nice Pneumag here awhile back. It works great, love the work the guy did on it, wouldnt change a thing... kinda. I have seen many Pneu mags absolutely rip out the paint. Walking the trigger on many of them is cake. This is where part of my question comes in. I have tried to set me lpr pressure up and down, set the trigger every way I can ( like I would all my other guns ) and yet, I cant get it to walk very well at all. I dont have a pic atm but I can soon but can anyone give me idea's on what else I can tinker with in it to make it run faster ?


BTW dont get e wrong, this marker shoots ropes. Kids are amazed this fat old man can hit what I hit, I just like to do it faster to watch the anti-mag group at the fields cry.

[Spider-TW]

pics are pretty necessary since there is a lot of geometry involved.

What kind of valve and on/off do you have?

Do you have trigger stops and have you tried tightening them up?

[Pneumagger]

Pics are necessary.
Check to be sure hoses aren't pinched or restricting.
Trigger tops help tremendously.
Is your LPR working well?

Remember... the length of trigger pull is directly actuating a valve. While we all love short clicky trigger pulls, you gotta remember that the more that valve stem behind the trigger travels, the more it is allowed to flow. You'll need to strike a good balace between valve opening and pressure to really get the mag to sing. A valve that flows just barely enough to get it to fire may not be enough flow to rip @ 15bps with.

I set most of pneumags @ 70psi or so even though they can fire well into the mid 40's with a ULT.
Even going up to 110+ psi won't hurt anything as long your hoses can handle it and you've got good actuator/sear spacing.

[Spider-TW]

The other thing is that if some of all your other guns are electro, your fingers get lazy with electros. It takes some practice to get fast, clean pulls. My son used to out-rip me easily with my own pneumag, but since he started playing with a timmy most of the time, his chuffy 13 to 14 bps doesn't look as good as my clean 10 to 11 bps.

[mabb1975]

I will post some pics tonight when I get home. I would LOVE to start to make more of my own custom markers thats why I bought this one, to get a good starting idea. Really thankfull that both of you are willing to help me and teach me.

[mabb1975]

<img src="http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd345/Mabb75/2008_08260006.jpg">

<img src="http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd345/Mabb75/2008_08260005.jpg">

<img src="http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd345/Mabb75/2008_08260004.jpg">

It has a clippard Sel in it, the 3 way is Fabco Air ( never heard that name before ). More or less I have tried to set the trigger, I tried different pressures, and I have tried to adjust the point at which the 3 way sets inside the frame. Very little difference overall in performance unless it was extremely poor, aka way to little air or not enough trigger travel. Any idea's would be great, anything. THanks

[mabb1975]

I found one problem along the way. The power tube brass cap was broken. No idea how long that was going bad but it might be part of the problem. More feedback if my pics help would be great )

[Spider-TW]

For more pneumag stuff, search the tech and workshop forums for pneumagger and cyberave68 threads and posts. They are probably the most prolific and more recent.

The broken tip is always a problem. Don't tighten it much (or at all) beyond solid contact with the end of the tube.

Is the Sel a QEV? I don't remember if SEL is the model of the clippard QEV (looks like it). The fabco MSV is good. If that is an RT valve, you can take out the QEV without a worry, but it shouldn't hurt anything either. When the marker is gassed up, there should be a small (business card thick) gap between the ram and the sear.

You can also angle the ram down toward the bottom of the sear, which may be a little tricky, but it would give you better leverage for lower pressure operation and can help make the little gap to the sear.

Make sure the trigger rod, lever, and trigger all move freely and don't bind. The first time I put a viper trigger in it pinched the frame together and made it drag. It is easy to fix, but it will slow you down.

[Pneumagger]

I did that frame - for behemoth originally if I remember correctly.
The QEV is a Clippard MEV.

I'm getting married tomorrow and will be out-of-country for the next week.
If you can't get it working by the time I get back - feel free to send to me. I'll get it up and running for ya.
You'll have to send the whole thing though because I no working mag at the moment to bolt it to

[NoremacTheImpaler]

congrats pneumagger

[Spider-TW]

congrats pneumagger

Yah! I thought it had already gone down!

[NoremacTheImpaler]

Just not to make another thread i would like some help as well, i cant it over 10 bps, not even that consistently. Then i start chuffing, no chops. ULT with 5 shims, Lvl 10 with 2 shims.

here are the pics of the internals

[Spider-TW]

Just not to make another thread i would like some help as well, i cant it over 10 bps, not even that consistently. Then i start chuffing, no chops. ULT with 5 shims, Lvl 10 with 2 shims.

If you have tried with a little more lpr pressure, you should try it with a regular RT on/off.

The ULT is a little slow to return sometimes. Hitting a little lower on the sear would be nice, but if you can keep the hoses on with the RT on/off, I would try that before trying to move the ram. Also check the gap between the ram and the sear as mentioned above.

Which valve do you have?

[NoremacTheImpaler]

I have an X valve, also i have not tried it without the ULT, i will try that later today. I only have about 1/16 of an inch or less between the sear and the ram. it isnt touching.

[Spider-TW]

I only have about 1/16 of an inch or less between the sear and the ram. it isnt touching.

That sounds good.