E-Pnue 2.0 - Idea bouncing

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  • Toll
    Registered User
    • Jun 2005
    • 758

    #1

    E-Pnue 2.0 - Idea bouncing

    I'm bouncing around the idea of using a RT on/off'ed 68 valve to remake my "thats a weird looking shocker" E-Mag. In addition I generally use my valve/rail/etc when I am experimenting with designs so I am restricted by having to think of compatibility later down the line.

    At the moment I'm using an Emag valve with l10/ULT but since its going to be EP it doesn't really seem to matter in the grand scheme of things since I am capped at 13 bps, have eyes and the ULT ends up being irrelevent. I'd like to change to a 68 valve and recoup some of the cash I put out there on materials.

    Specs:
    Ule Body
    No rise neck
    RT rail that I attacked with a bandsaw
    T board
    Battery pack foregrip
    FBM Feirce frame


    Questions:

    68 Yay or nay?

    Could I put the plunger in such a way as to push up directly on the seer bottom rather than the leg and allow me to use a different trigger set up?
  • Toll
    Registered User
    • Jun 2005
    • 758

    #2
    Updates!:




    Comment

    • Chace
      Registered User
      • Aug 2009
      • 66

      #3
      Do you need a tray for that?
      Other than that, it's not doing it for me. Id like a E-Pneu-Tac one better.
      Sorry!

      Comment

      • Toll
        Registered User
        • Jun 2005
        • 758

        #4
        Its made out plywood, spray paint and unemployed amounts of time so a tac one body is out.

        Comment

        • Spider-TW
          U R techno-literate!

          • Oct 2006
          • 3554

          #5
          my ep mag is a classic. Out of about 10,000 rounds, it think i've seen one ball collision from bouncing the trigger switch (my circuit is set for about 20 bps max, semi only).

          the length of the sear arms are about equal on the on/off and trigger rod, so the force is about the same under the on/off, but the geometry is different. if your sear pin is an RT type, it should be ok to push up at the on/off. I think that's an RT rail you have.

          Comment

          • Toll
            Registered User
            • Jun 2005
            • 758

            #6
            Tried to move the actuation arm. It worked but created more issues than it solved. Gives some interesting ideas when added to a "bullpup" style of design.

            Comment

            • Ebbed
              Registered User
              • Apr 2009
              • 238

              #7
              i think it looks great!

              Comment

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