Modification ideas : EP vs Clapper noid

[Toll]

After a few frustrating rounds of trying to route the tubing through a frame/etc I started to wonder : why aren't more clapper noids in use? Is there a specific way they work that makes them unsuited? Is it just trying to fit them into the frame?

In theory this would allow me to cut out alot of key stuff :

-No lpr
-No tubing
-Can migrate the battery back into the frame
-No solenoid to try to hide
-No Mpa3/etc

In my case I find myself using a frame of my own design. At this point Im desperately trying to remove all bits that that I can so I can collapse the package down a bit and use a few after-market m4 parts (such as the grip). My plan is to colapse both the board/battery into a foregrip on the front of my assembly, not having to hide a solenoid somewhere in there is even better.

[Frizzle Fry]

After a few frustrating rounds of trying to route the tubing through a frame/etc I started to wonder : why aren't more clapper noids in use? Is there a specific way they work that makes them unsuited? Is it just trying to fit them into the frame?

I've owned two hyperframes mags and one Booyah framed mag over the years... All utilized a clapper noid, and while they did shoot ropes/darts/lazers/whatever, they were freaking hard to tune and weren't much easier to keep running. With a classic valve, finicky, with an R/T valve, painfully difficult to tune. Those are just my experiences of course.


That said, I wouldn't call clapper noids rare on automags. There are a lot of "spydermags" out there, you're just not seeing as many lately. I stoppd seeing "spydermag" threads when mechanical "pneumags" became a trend... Now "EP mags" are the dominant home-brew conversion.

[Spider-TW]

Battery life gets to be a slight issue also. A clapper solenoid takes more power than a tiny solenoid valve. However, there are a lot of improvements lately in rechargeable batteries. I almost started a project to put a pair of cell phone batteries in my grip panels. However, I already had a pneumag that would have gotten lonely, so I stuffed the electronics in it.

[Toll]

Do you guys suppose that a cocker-noid would work?

[BigEvil]

Those hyperframe style frames can work very well. There are a few little tricks and they are wonderful.

[Toll]

I just figure that a hyper frame style seer actuator is much more predictable for what I need and a space saver. I dont know if I can use an e1 clapper noid or if I have to get something different. If this works out how I'd like it, there are a TON of ideas that have just become MUCH more feasible

[p8ntbal4me]

Do you guys suppose that a cocker-noid would work?

Cocker "noids" work fine. I bought out the last of the PE e-blade cocker noids the manufacturer had,.. along with 50 more added to the order.

Thats the solenoid I sell and thats the one Im using in my newest frame....

~ P8nt

[Toll]

I ended up ordering a spyder/pirahna noid from Scenario dreams. I'll see how that one works and post some results up. From the looks of it I think it's all set...maybe. heh

[Toll]

I just got a noid from scenario dreams that seems to fit my needs pretty well.

http://www.scenariodreams.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=18&products_id=122

In this case the front part (the flat head anyway) is completely useless but the tail of the guide mechanism comes out far enough that I think I can actuate the seer with it

Dimensions are as follows :

L: 1"
OD: .9"
Extension : .125 (eg: The bit that comes out and pokes the seer. This can be increased)

[p8ntbal4me]

Keep us posted! (take some pictures)

~ P8nt

[Toll]

Pics will be up ASAP.

Im pretty sure with a file I could get a 3/16 to 1/4 extension there, just to make sure. Right now there's alot of duct tape math going on.

For the record the noid cost 12$ and the capacitor cost 4$. Will this fit in a standard frame? hell no. Will this fit in the abomination I'm dreaming of? Oh my yes.Your over all frame dimensions would need to be something in the area of 1.25" wide which is the exact dimension I need.


Other stuff:

The project I'm working on is a mag based M14 - EBR. I just got the go ahead in my class to use the CNC machines, which means no more wood..I get to actually use aluminum. If anyone would like to give me a crash course on what kind of aluminum is good for these projects (Im planning to have it type3 anno'd) I'd appreciate it. The solenoid is for the future versions of such a mag, where it's infact magazine fed via boxfeed that I bolt on there.



This is the rough cadding up with the interiors. It's based off of a few earlier attempts I'd done that kind of fizzled out due to materials issues (predominantly because they explode when banged on too hard) The final versionwill be integrating actual m14 bits : Bipod (for the lulz), butt pad, pistol grip and if I can the barrel shroud, though I'm not really thinking thats going to work.

The previous versions all suffered from the same problem: Wood breaks and even when sanded perfectly smooth comes out looking like a kids toy but they were starting steps.