The road to making my mag lighter/smaller

[sslecyk03]

I'd like to say from the get-go, it is very dangerous to own a mag after a recent dremel purchase. I swear I am addicted to cutting things up

At the moment I am on a mission to make my gun about as light and small as possible.

First I decided to figure out a way to hide the airlines. I cut up my unimount so I could run the airline straight up into the trigger frame (as seen in the pic below). It comes out the other side at the top of the grip frame and has about 2 inches of exposed macroline going to the x-valve.



After that I decided to shorten up the rail and the body. I cut about a inch or so off the rail and the body is as small as a ULE can get, cut to the threads on the front and just long enough to not show any silver on the valve in back. Here is what it looks like now:



Next up is some rail milling (ULE and outside) and then ULE milling on the trigger frame. After that I'm not sure what else can be done. Has anyone ever figured a way to replace the rail with something smaller? Just looking for some more ideas.

[dman314]

As far as a rail goes you can mill one down to almost nothing. I wouldnt suggest doing it with a dremmel though, something that extensive could get pretty messy. I was actually thinking of sending mine out an havin it milled as small as it could be, but I just decided that itd be to expensive an I really didnt need to so I just took a hand file to it and did some shapeing.

[robo1]

You might be able to skeletonize the rail. Hmmm.....Could the bolt be skeletonized?

[maniacmechanic]

you can cut them way down ,, but you have to remember the RAIL is the backbone of this marker , it keeps everything in alignment , if it has too much " flex " or not enough support ( however you want to say it ) , things just won't work right





This is one i'm milling away the grams on , started out as a RT rail at 213 grams , right now it weighs in at 66 gr , at this point it still sets up & shoots great , you can actually watch the sear move & the bolt cycle
As far as milling the bolt , I don't think i'd go there , i've seen X valves that have been slot milled
You can also take that feedneck & make it straight instead of tapered & cut the inside to fit your favorite hopper , so you dont have a bulky clamper

And please be careful with that dremel , take your time , look at things twice before cutting them , most of the time you can't put the metal back & watch your fingers too

[sslecyk03]

You can also take that feedneck & make it straight instead of tapered & cut the inside to fit your favorite hopper , so you dont have a bulky clamper

Not sure what you mean by that? Can you be more specific? I like your body and rail a lot that is pretty cool. Would you say it is less efficient with the slots in the body though? Seems like it might release some air that would otherwise be used to propel the paint out.

[maniacmechanic]

Feedneck ;



From 18gr to 11gr & will probley remove some height , so drop off a couple more gr

less efficient ?? , there is no seal to the outside of the bolt just the power tube o-ring

[sslecyk03]

Feedneck ;



From 18gr to 11gr & will probley remove some height , so drop off a couple more gr

less efficient ?? , there is no seal to the outside of the bolt just the power tube o-ring

I like the clamper simply because it is quick and easy to remove the loader that way. Good point on the bolt I forgot the seal was on the inside of the bolt. I definitely like those slits in the body especially the fact that you can see the bolt and paint moving. Thanks for clarifying



So today I finally was able to get some air for my gun and fired it for the first time in 4-5 years lol. Didn't replace any o-rings...didn't really need to. I oiled it up and put about 50 rounds of some almost frozen month old paint through it. Needless to say my love for mags came back instantly....not a single chop with horrible paint in a gun that hadn't been fired in so long. I'm amazed. I even got my bolt to stop on a rolled up dollar bill which quickly trumped my thinking that the lvl 10 needed to be re-tuned. This is awesome!

Next up I hope to get my rail milled by Luke, nothing as extreme as maniacs but definitely get some weight off. I'd like to add a DW carbon fiber foregrip and then either get the rail and trigger frame ano'ed blue to match the body or get it powdercoated white with gloss black accents (leaning towards this).

[gommie404]

good post . im going to start milling my E mag soon,, now im happy with not using the ace board ect..
And i do like what you have done with that rail.. pretty sweet.

[sslecyk03]

here is another update, done quite a bit since the last post on here:



Removed some ano, chopped the rail more and made some angles, cut the front of the y-grip to make it vert, and other minor things as well.