Boardless e trigger?

[1stTarget]

My idea is simple:
1. E-frame, with trigger
2 Noid
3. 9 volt
4. Capacitor
5. Wires, clips, no board
Will it work? What am I not seeing?
Oh and to be clear, on a spyder set up.

[Ratt]

If my thinking is correct, the noid will have power applied everytime the trigger is pulled, and will remain in the firing position until you release the trigger, also meaning your bolt will remain forward until the trigger is released. If you do not have fast fingers, your efficiency will be utter crap. One of the purposes of the circuitry is to instruct the noid to set/reset quickly (dwell). Without that ciruitry, your 'dwell' will be set by how fast your fingers can move.
Also, you have to take into account what voltage the noid uses. I do not know what that voltage is, but it might not be 9 volts. The ciruitry that is normally in there may be used to step up or step down that 9 volts coming from the battery.
Other than those two potential problems, as long as you don't care for any firing modes and you are not trying to run anything else off of the battery, I dont' see why it wouldn't work. I am going to keep an eye on this thread. I would like to see what you come up with.

[xero28]

If my thinking is correct, the noid will have power applied everytime the trigger is pulled, and will remain in the firing position until you release the trigger, also meaning your bolt will remain forward until the trigger is released.

I'm not sure it this is entirely correct. With a Mag, this would be just like pulling the trigger and holding it down. There is no extra air that is released because you are just closing the on/off. The bolt resets from the spring. Once you release the trigger you the on/off will open and air will enter again into the dump chamber. I don't have much experience with electronics, so I may be wrong. But I too would be interested to see where this one goes.

[TwilightG]

Didn't Spider-TW make a board-less EP mag?
Hopefully he sees this thread

[p8ntbal4me]

My idea is simple:
1. E-frame, with trigger
2 Noid
3. 9 volt
4. Capacitor
5. Wires, clips, no board
Will it work? What am I not seeing?
Oh and to be clear, on a spyder set up.

You need a micro switch or the like that will hold the duty cycle of the power being switched on and off in a 1/10th state.

You need a way to adjust the dwell to ensure a contact state of power each trigger pull so that it doesnt deliver a good power stroke on pull and a huge drop the next. Maybe ain inline POTS......

Possible,... but in a wire harness setup,.. very un-reliable.

~ P8nt

[MntlHazrd]

1stTarget, i have a schematic of such a thing i found online some time ago. Let me know what your email address is and il email it to you to have fun with.

[Ratt]

1stTarget, i have a schematic of such a thing i found online some time ago. Let me know what your email address is and il email it to you to have fun with.

Would you send it to me, as well?

[MntlHazrd]

As before, let me know what your email address is and ill mail it to you

[Spider-TW]

Didn't Spider-TW make a board-less EP mag?
Hopefully he sees this thread

I've been covered up lately.

Mine was a little more complicated - the SMAC mag

I'm taking it to clareball this weekend. It's still my favorite general purpose marker.

You can setup a capacitor and resistor network that will have the right discharge time and recharge times, but you will need to make the adjustments with the solenoid since they will trigger and hold in at different voltages. With precision resistors and caps, you can probably get close enough with calculations and without an oscilliscope.

If you make it too tight, you will have trouble when the battery voltage dies off and changes your charge and recharge times. Be careful if you use the smc-70; it is not rated for 9 volts continuous duty and it will at least over heat on a rapid, long firing pulse. It doesn't like 10msec pulses at 50 Hz either.

The main disadvantage I see in a straight capacitor setup is when you hit the switch during recharge. Assuming that you set it up not to fire during the recharge, you drain the cap trying to fire. If your switch bounces, you keep draining the cap. Since the recharge time cuts into your rate of fire (especially with the classic valve) you have to balance the response time of the trigger against your delays.

Pneumagger mentioned a similar project long ago also.