minimag elecrto frame

[kapaintballman]

hey. i jus got an intelliframe, and i still cant achieve the rates of fire that i would like. so i got 2 thinking, my friends electro spyder is pretty fast, i mean spyders suck, but the elecrto frames have ok fates of fire, and i like the trigger pul of just a micro switch. so I thought, what if I got a spyder trigger from, and installed all the electronics, soleniod and micro switch into my mag frame. I would remove the trigger rod, and mount the soleniod under the sear, jus like in a spyder. I think i can do it, but I must be overlooking something that will go wrong, because I cant imagine im the only one who has thought of this. the only problem I can thin of, is that the soleniod might not be strong enough, because I think it will be harder on a mag set up (with the on/off valve and bolt) then with jus the sear releasing the bolt like in a spyder. help me out here guys, i REALLY want to do this

[Wrathchild]

Just buy yourself a used Hyperframe from the forums.

[lightning rift]

I have been contemplating the same thing for a long long time now... I just checked out the IR3 frames in the Dealers forum, and I am determined to find a way to get electronics to work in either the intelliframe or that IR3. Sweet Jesus, if we could convert that IR3 frame into an electronic @$$ kickin machine, no one would bother with intelliframes...lol

I also have my own oppinions on the electonic matter, and I'm pretty sure I am in the minority here. But who really thinks all the burst modes, shot timer, game timer, and LCD stuff is necessary? Why not make a plane-jane board with a selnoid that works on full auto or semi, has a switch to turn in on, and leave it at that? But back to the point of your thread...

I would like to help in any way possible on this project. As to your thoughts about the selnoid not being strong enough, lets consider this; selnoids are only as strong as the number of coils they have and the current put through them. So, as physics proves, in order to make the selnoid stronger, something has to get bigger. I think the easiest way to keep everying small, efficient, and lightweight is to use the ULE trigger with it. The selnoid can be very small with this system, thus giving longer battery life and less weight.

My .02 stands here until I can get some logistics answers from people... no use in wasting brain power on something that has been tried or proven already

[kapaintballman]

aight thanks man. my friend has an electro frame that im ganna try and bargain with him 4. if i can get it for 60 bukcs or less ill buy that, if not ill get the spyder sprint frame. and i agree, wats up with the burst modes? are you really ganna use them. y not jus have semi auto, and full auto?, but owell. and now that iv given it more thought im almost sure i can make the solenoid 2 work even if it is a little weak (leverage works wonders)but ill get 2 work on it as soon as i get a frame

and 2 the other dude, i dont wanna spnd all that $$ on a hyper frame, and it would kick @$$ to make something work myself. cus then when peeps go "man, that mag is fast, wat kinda trigger frame you got on there" I can say "thats my own little specailty frame, built specifically for me" and they go "wow" lol

[redlaser666]

It's a very good idea, i thought about it too. If you are going to use a spyder solenoid, the hard part is mounting it to the frame. That solenoid is wider than the intellyframe. If you get it mounted, then its esy after that.

Good Luck, keep us posted on your progress.

[ExtremeODD]

the thing on the sprint soleniod, is that the little hammer thing travels like 2MM while my other gun with that only travels like .5mm, so that takes up a little more room, and if battery low, it dont shoot

[kapaintballman]

alright, Im definitly going to try this. and if the spyder solenoid doesnt fit, do you think it would be possible to get one that does, and just swap them?

[aut911]

Ok i have put some thought to this as well and i have an idea for you. go onto warpig.com and check out the technical section and find the article about home made electronic firing systems. basically, bill mills designed and built a program to fire his rainmaker from a stamp 1 chip. Stamp microprocessors are pretty small and they will work great because they can hold alot for current. Which if you are trying to get a stock minimag to fire with a solenoid you are going to need alot of current, not just a small solenoid from a spyder. At any rate i can tell you without a doubt that your idea of taking out an electronic frame from a spyder and trying to make it fire a mag will almost definatly fail. It is an interesting idea though.

aut

[lightning rift]

Why spend $60 for a 'paintball' solenoid, when you can buy the same thing for $15?

http://www.electromechanicsonline.com/default.asp?cat=Tubular+Solenoids%2C+DC%2C+Pull

I think this website will be of great service in this project. Lot's of options for power here.... so give it a look.

[kapaintballman]

thanks guys. me and my friend Tom were contimplating the idea, and we had a spyder frame, and we were trying different stuff and all. but we came to one conclusion, the soleniod isnt strong enough, and we would have 2 chop the hell outta the frame 2 get it 2 fit. so now im thinking, screw all the modes of fire and stuff, cus only semi is tournement legal, and it will still mke it 10 times faster with just having a micro switch. so im wondering, can I just wire a battery, micro switch, and soleniod 2gether so that everytime the trigger is pulled the solenoid moves. im not so smart about these solenoids, all I know it they are magnets lol. and this way, I would only have 3 things 2 fit inside, and can get rid of the whole electronics board. and thanks for the website, if only i could understand it lol. I cant figure out how much voltage you need for one, or how much of this or that. But ill figure it out. does anybody know how a hyperframe works?

[kapaintballman]

ok, I figured out that the hyperframe uses what looks like the same type of solenoid that the spyder does, but it has a new on-off assembly that makes it a lot easier 2 close the on-off valve. I have seen these on some website, but i dont know which one. does anybody else know what im talkin about, and know where to find it?

[lightning rift]

I looked at the on/off of the hyperframe and it is essentialy a ULT. You use the same on/off as was in the marker beforehand, but change the pin to a much smaller size and the o-ring to fit it.

[kapaintballman]

ya, i kinda figured that, but got any idea where I can get a smaller pin and o-rings? cus I dont think it will work without that

[lightning rift]

first off, the only ways you are going to get a smaller on/off pin and o-ring that actually work together is either contact centerflag or buy a ULT.
after much measuring, it looks like at the least you will have to cut off half of that center bar in the middle of the intelliframe just to fit a 9v. the circuit board wont be a problem, it is small enough to fit next to the battery. the real issue comes down to the solenoid. i checked around on line and found a push type that will barely fit in front of the sear, but then I dont know where the trigger switch will go. in order to proceed with this project, I need to know how small you can get the trigger pull on the ULT to. If it can do ~1.2mm or less, then I think I can put something together.

[kapaintballman]

well, i think im jus going to try this on my stock frame, and if that is easy, i will do it to the intelliframe. I am pretty sure I want to get a pull type solenoid, and attach it 2 the front of the sear to upp is down, that way, the solenoid also has leverage, so I may not need a new on/off. i know excacly where 2 mounthe micro swich, and it will be easy in the stock frame. But i also have to make a spring return for the trigger. so im pretty sure how Im going do do it, I jus need 2 find the right solenoid, and im going 2 get my power tech teacher 2 help with that. but how strong do u think the solenoid has 2 be?