Need advice on board connectors used on AKA, AGD, SP electros...

[cledford]

Hello All:

I'm seeking advice as to the make and model of the small white connectors used on (among others) the AKA (Viking, Excal), AGD (Emag), and SP (old model) Shockers. If you've got a digikey catalog page or product number for reference that would be even better! I'd also like a pointer to the crimpers used for terminating the the plugs.

My need for these is that I'm getting started playing around with basic stamp programming for paintball as a possible prelude to doing something more serious with PICs. I'd like to work up my own controller and it would be easier to make the switch from testing board (which will be external) used during the week back to the stock hardware for play on the weekend. Those easy to use little connectors would make life much simpler...

Thanks,

-Calvin

[funkmunky56]

yo. the ones used in the emag are Molex 1.25 mm MicroMini connectors. 2-pin for the warplink, 3-pin for the HES, and 5-pin for the burst jumper/ACE. Gotta buy the pins separately (make sure you know what gauge of wire you plan on using, cuz there's two different sized pins) Digikey catalog page number 50. Crimping tool is a specialty item, listed on the same page. Have fun!

--Dave

[cledford]

Thanks, just verified the info - page 50 is right on the money! For anyone else interested, all I can say is the crimp tool is a friggin' rip-off!!!!!!!!! All of the connectors average in price some where between .20 and $3.00 and the crimpers cost $180 dollars!!!!!!

What a disapointment!

-Calvin

[funkmunky56]

yep... which is why I still haven't bought one, despite my intense need for same... it IS a specialty prototyping tool though, as these are not considered "hobbyist" connectors.

I did tech my $60 Amp Universal crimp tool, and it now does a fairly passable job on the pins... but not good enough, as I still get occasional shorting problems if I'm not REALLY REALLY careful. I think I'ma mill myself a better tool shortly. Will keep you advised if I get a working one assembled. :-) --Dave

[cledford]

funkmunky56,

I wrote to Molex and here is what they responded to my question (which was - The crimpers are too expensive, what other options are there?):

<B>"Series 51021 is a housing that does not require a hand tool. The terminals that can go into that housing is what would require a hand tool. <my mistake, quoted the wrong part number -CWL> These hand tools are not designed for the home user, they are designed to be used in a prototype and repair environment for thousands of crimps.

We do have a down and dirty "distribution" tool that Waldom sells, part number 63811-1000. I am not sure if this will meet your requirement but you can review and determine if it does (review the terminal spec vs. the tool spec from Waldom prior to purchasing). This would be the only option.

Regards,
Molex Application Tooling"</B>

I looked up the tool they referenced and I don't think it'll work, but you might want to check it out.

As an aside, I've got a number of friends who ride motorcycles who got together to purchase a tire mounter as a group to defray the cost. Maybe we should get a group of people together and split up the cost of the crimper...

Frankly, I'm not sure if I even need it. Maybe you've got some recommendations for alternatives. Basically, all I really want to due is put an inline break into a number of the components that hang off my various boards. For the Emag, I'd like to cut the solenoid wire mid way, put a connector inline - which would then allow me to easily move the board to a Morlock and back to the stock without resolder each time. For the Shocker, I'm about to get into basic stamp programming and would like to be able to hook my 'noid up for testing and move back to the stock by simply unplugging and replugging the solenoids. Other ideas include putting a connector inline to the Viking trigger (or going straight into the board if I've got the right connector type) and with the Basic stamp controller, to run a full-auto program for testing potential shoot-down/drop-off - again with no impact to the marker and allowing a quick change back.

-Calvin