Any frame can be an Intelliframe

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  • tyrion2323
    Euroball=goodness
    • Dec 2002
    • 1654

    #1

    Any frame can be an Intelliframe

    Well, I was checking out what exactly an intelliframe IS, and it seems that my DYE trigger frame could, with the electronics, function exactly the same as an intelliframe. The only thing I need to know is what sort of contact the trigger rod needs to have with the push-switch.

    Does anyone know?

    Jacob
    My AIM Intimidator is better than your Automag. Get over it.
    Hobart Paintball AIM Paintball
  • redlaser666
    US ARMY SGT
    • Jul 2002
    • 841

    #2
    All you would need to do is place a bracket for the switch insede the frame. The switch should be off when the trigger is not being pressed, but should turn on when you pull the trigger. It is just a matter of placing the bracket in the right place.

    Good luck, and merry Xmas!
    My FeedBack

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    • Aegis
      To old for this
      • Dec 2002
      • 596

      #3
      The trigger rod does not contact the switch - the switch is underneath the sear below the on-off pin, looks like the point of maximum travel for the sear.
      my feedback thread

      It's EEEE-gis:

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      • slushee
        AO Patch Designer
        • Jan 2001
        • 562

        #4
        I thought about doing that but there is just no metal around to work with .. i'm sure if you actually own a few tools you might be able to make a bracket and attach it to the frame somehow ..
        Sig image file size too big... MarkM

        ".. yes ma'am, our DSL does sux .."

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        • Big'n slo
          Sponsored by...my paycheck
          • Mar 2003
          • 1909

          #5
          Intelli'd benchmark

          Easy enough to make, I'll have to take some pics of the new improved bracket (one piece Al.)

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          • Macpaintballer
            Pumpaholic
            • Feb 2002
            • 171

            #6
            Originally posted by Aegis
            The trigger rod does not contact the switch - the switch is underneath the sear below the on-off pin, looks like the point of maximum travel for the sear.
            If I was making it, I'd try placing the switch so that instead of activation at the maximum travel for the sear and exactly when the marker fires to just before the marker is fired, so you agitate the balls before firing the shot, so you always have a ball chambered. If it's at the maximum point when the gun fires, you're agitating the balls for the NEXT shot... Maybe this isn't an issue at all, but it could be.
            Why do all pump players seem so poor? You'd think we'd save some money on paint, but it seems like everything I save I just spend on more crap I don't need...

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