Considering a Hyperframe mod...

[Cryer]

Ok... This probably wont be done for a while, as I'm strapped for cash, and I might have to end up selling the Emag to fund it...
But, here goes...

I hear everyones main beef with the Hfame is that the trigger is rock hard and not adjustable...

What I plan to do is: configuring the trigger to use a series of 3 set screws, incorporating an adjustable trigger return spring, and by replacing the switch with something extremely light(what, I dont know yet, suggestions? What other switches would fit? Impulse? WAS?)

[redlaser666]

Im not shure but there was someone selling lightweight switches for the hyperframe in the dealers forum.

[Digits]

I put a light microswitch in mine.. And a backstop.. And I love it.. The only thing you will really need for the microswitch is the right casing to put it in.. If you want the microswitch to stick out where the stock one does you'll need the right size switch which they sell at radio shack.. Then you can saw it in half or w/e and glue a nice one in (the ones they sell are still stiff)..

You could put a matrix/impy microswitch in it though.. The only thing is I think you would have to rig up a piece on the back of the trigger and mount the switch inside of the trigger frame and then the back piece hits it.. Which could be kinda hard..

[Cryer]

I think I follow you... The Matrix and Imp switches would be slightly recessed in the frame, right?

Awesome. What I was going to do is have an adjustable set screw over the switch, an adjustable back stop set screw, and somehow put a very light spring inside the frame with a thrid set screw in the trigger to where you can add more tension to the spring.

[slushee]

actually, I put in nerobro's 50g switch in my hyperframe ... and it is sooo light! .. My friends angel speed trigger that is adjusted to be loose feels just like mine.

What I plan on doing is putting on a trigger stop in the trigger (drilling hold, taping, putting in set screw) to limit the travel. This should make the trigger close to if not the same as angels.

Interesting idea putting another hole in the trigger with a set screw over top of the microswitch ... I might try that ...

let you all know when I get that ambitious...

[the electrician]

you should put a front stop, a back stop, and a switch activation adjustment in the trigger. if it all possible make a trigger return,tension adjustment. (that's the hard one)

this would give you total adjustability and control over the trigger. this is what I've started doin on the e-cockers mods and what I did on the e-mag mod.

take your time and fine the best placement for the setscrews. try and make it so they all take the same allen wrench, and can be adjusted from the outside.

I ended up adding metal to the back of an AGD problade trigger to put the switch activation point where I wanted it.

this way you can put the switch activation anywhere in the trigger pul, front, middle, back whatever feels good. with a front and back stop, you can set up the trigger right where you want it, and still keep it as short as you want. if you like to walk the trigger, you can find the spot that it feels the easiest to do.

http://home.kc.rr.com/theelectrician...ggerclose1.jpg

[URL]http://home.kc.rr.com/theelectrician/images/e-magtrigclose2.jpg[/URL
notice the adjustable opposing magnet return in the frame,it's down low on the trigger and a bit hard to see.
all of those setscrews are 6-32 thread. a very common size and easy to find in several lengths.

] http://home.kc.rr.com/theelectrician...mrond2F-FL.jpg

http://home.kc.rr.com/theelectrician...microUX40E.jpg

these two are excellent micro switches to use for trigger applications. the omron D2F-FL is extremely light at only 25g of actuation force. I prefer the D2F-L instead. it needs 80g of actuation force. this totally eliminates trigger bounce in my e-mag mod. the D2F-FL was extremely bouncy and you could not get less than 3 shots to occur. for some applications it works fine.

Cherry makes the same switch with 45g and 145g actuation.

the UX40E is made by honeywell/microswitch and is basically just about discontinued. they came in 50g 60g and 100g actuation forces.

the omron and cherry brands can be purchased at digikey.com

[Digits]

See ya Cryer.. You could put the switch in and then tap the trigger and have a metal piece sticking out of it which would activate the trigger... Theres probablly other ways but ya..

You'd probablly be best to just get a switch that fits though.. Because the place where you put the microswitch into the hyperframe is really enclosed in, and it would be pretty hard to rig up a matrix switch..

In all honesty though.. I wouldn't get a hyperframe if I were you.. I'd wait for one of those vert ones.. Hyperframes have alot of annoying little problems, they work great when they shoot.. But if they dont it's frustrating.

[Cryer]

Electrician, I've been creaming over your setup since ive seen it Amazing!

I'm interested in how you did the magnet return, there... (it is a mag return, right?)

As far as stops are concerned, I'm not sure where I could put a forward stop, Doesnt look like theres much place for one...

The triggers very close to the switch as is, so an activation adjustment screw would be too hard at all.
And if I could set up an adjustable magnetic return...

schwing!

Originally posted by Digits
...In all honesty though.. I wouldn't get a hyperframe if I were you.. I'd wait for one of those vert ones.. Hyperframes have alot of annoying little problems, they work great when they shoot.. But if they dont it's frustrating.

Ya, that and they dont make them or the 20 bps boards anymore... not until the SP thing blows over

[the electrician]

buy some small powerful magnets.

those two magnets I used were spare parts from a bit-charger clone micro R/C car steering mechanism.

put one in the trigger and one in the frame directly accross from it so that the force is opposing.

to make it adjustable, just stop and think about it.

you could mount the magnet in an aluminum spacer, use a setscrew in the back to adjust it

you could mount it in the spacer and just have a set screw on the side. slid the spacer where you like it and clamp it down with the side set screw.

you could drill out part of a larger extra-fine threaded set screw and mount it in the frame with the magnet inside of it.

there's probably a dozen more ways. you can do just about anything if you put your mind to it and you've got the tools.

[Dubstar112]

Try using the magnets with the forces attracting, and when you pull the trigger they separate. Strong>weak pull. Feels good too.