Mini cocker, just a trial run

[want2race]

In considering a cocker base for my next project, I wanted to see how hard it would be to relocate the pnuematics. The tube on the front is an integrated "barrel extension". I used my freak barrel with AA tip and slipped some pvc tube over it. Kind of gives it a Mac10 with supressor look. The red dot sits on a an adjustable base, kind of like on the bolt action gun, but much quicker to adjust with 5 clicks instead of the wheel like the other. This one was the prototype for the other one.
I used a cut down AR15 gas tube for the back block rod.

[mobius]

You do relize your "Barrel Extension" is outlawed by the Federal government, right?

[Glickman]

depends, theres a batf limit on the decibles if im correct.
the only real problem is that its supposably possible to take that silencer off and put it on a real gun, but heres a quote from something i found online:

"A vented BOA barrel with a sleeve that fit over it dampening the report and concealing the vapor cloud that often forms when a paintgun is fired. Since the sleeve by itself wouldn't quiet a firearm (the barrel needs to be vented) it shouldn't be classified as a silencer."

but if u just make it impossible to for a ball to come out of the barrel, then theres nothing to argue about (which ive seen, and have tried) and should be fine.

but still, its not wise to use it unless it doesnt really muffle it because police have been known to take irrational assumtions at paintball relating things, although i cant say i dont blame them

[want2race]

True, it is just a sleeve over the ported barrel. Plus the sleeve has holes in which allow gas pressure from a firearm to vent out. The tube in itself is not a true "barrel extension". Of course you'd look pretty silly putting this black tube over the barrel of your firearm, it's equal to slipping a paper towel tube over your barrel.

[bjjb99]

depends, theres a batf limit on the decibles if im correct.

Suppressors, the BATF, and paintball is a topic that has been discussed in many different forums for about as long as paintball has existed. They were, are, and will probably forever be a very, very gray area when it comes to legality.

There is no published procedure for BATF testing of suppressors to see whether they fall into the "illegal" category. In this regard, the BATF is like the FCC. "We have some rules, but we won't tell you what they are until we catch you breaking them, then we will come down on you hard." The problem is, they make the rules... they decide whether a particular design is illegal or not... and there's not much the average Joe Public can do about it.

that being said, it is highly unlikely that some agent is going to come knocking on your door in the wee hours of the morning looking for paintball silencer parts. However, this does not mean that folks should go waving their paintball silencers around under the noses of BATF paintballers at their local field.

If you really, really want to build a paintball silencer and be absolutely legal in your production and ownership, you need to start looking into firearms makers licenses and the like. Last I heard it costs you around $200 and a couple of sets of fingerprints, plus some "he's an okay guy" words from your local law enforcement officials.

BJJB

[JonDaAzn]

the question is, is the barrel extension worth the trouble, if having it on worries you, just take it off, it doesn't add any performance, and shouldn't affect how the gun works, btw that cocker looks really nice!

also, thread jack: How should i dissasemble the tunnel rat? is there any certain way to get the hardline off?

[want2race]

I don't plan to take the black tube to a field, or in public period. It's just for the back yard.

Ooh, tough one. Only because it's been awhile since I've done it myself. You can start by taking out the screw holding the valve to the frame. Then unscrew the rear hard line locking nut. The one that holds the the line into the 90* fitting. The valve should slide out the rear.

As for the front. Use a pair of pliers to grab the square head of the screw that holds the vert. adaptor onto the frame (also acts as pin valve). Once that is removed (you will need thread sealer when you replace it), you should be able to remove the main body from the frame.

[AkumA]

what did you use to mount the ram and switch?

[want2race]

I used the front block and cut it up. That way I could use the existing threads for the ram and 3 way. I shaped them to fit up to the body and trigger frame. I also "milled" the body (hogged it out) so the ram fit tighter against the body.

[AkumA]

nice, i've heard of that idea, just wasn't sure if you incorporated it or not.

possible to get some closer shots of your job?

im planning on using a hacksaw and dremel, while taking a lot of time into it. don't want to really rush it and mess up. any recomondations?

ps. i've tried lightening up a spare back block, and i noticed i went through a lot of cut off/emory wheels. know anything else that could be more durable?

[want2race]

I use a drill bit anytime I can get away with it. When I hacked up the front block, I would scribe the line that I need to cut at, drill a bunch of holes just beyond the line, hack saw through all the holes then use a rough file to get it close, finish with fine files and paper. It's a lot quicker than the cut off wheels. But that depends on where you're taking material off of. If you are trying to round off your back block, then obviously you can't drill through it. I would use a hacksaw to cut most of the material off, then rough it in with the cut off wheel or rough file. A good rough file will take off so much aluminum that it is actually faster. Once you get through the anno, the aluminum is quite soft.

[AkumA]

nice.

any closer pics tho? feel free to send them via email.