Intellifeed your warp? Try this!!

[Duck Hunt]

I realized that since I intellifeed my warp and don't use the vibration sensor that I didn't need it! And since the warp board ISN'T in there I can run the motor at a full 18volts!

Heres a pic!



Sean

[trains are bad]

can't see anything. What kind of dwell do you get? Does it spin really fast/noisily?

[Duck Hunt]

As far as I can tell the dwell is the same. I used to turn my boards sensitivity all the way down so I thought I'd try this out.

It spins REALLY fast, outfeeds my Egg with fresh batteries. I haven't tested it with a HALO yet but that will happen Sunday. Basically all there is in there is an on/off switch and an intellifeed plug after that.

I'm taking a wild guess and saying it feeds alittle faster than a 12v modded warp. I'm running 18volts directly to the motor.

Sean

[trains are bad]

cool, so it stays spinning when you shoot fast? I like. lighter, more reliable, probably better on batteries too-the intellifeed switch is your on/off, it shouldn't drain during storage. I don't know if I'd run 18v though, my regular 9v bigcell keeps up with my mag/revvy fine. I've considered this before but never had the guts to try it.

Any other input?

[Duck Hunt]

I wasn't worried about it shooting to slow, until I get the hAir trigger, thats the only reason I wanted a modded warp. Any more comments? well....I have too much time on my hands!

Here I've modded my warp, runs 18volts, fast! No board just an On/Off switch and Intelli Hook up, but the I forgot, no PRIMER button, untill NOW!



I just finished it. I've wanted to do this for awhile cause sometimes I'm an idiot and I don't turn on my hopper and I hated reaching down under my warp in the middle of a game.

Sunday I will be testing my mods at Canobie Paintball's Big Game so I'll post a follow up. Thanks for the interest TRB!

Sean

[trains are bad]

OOO OOO *has seizure* I was gonna do that tooo!!!

you know what I did though instead, is adjust my intellifeed switch so that it activates at the very beginning of the trigger pull. Since I run a regular on/off, I can prime the warp on the field by just cracking the trigger a bit, but not enough to shoot. So like if I'm shooting on a mad tilt and empty my warp, i just tilt it rightside up and pull the trigger a bit.

[Jazkal]

I hate to drag up an old thread, but I really would like to try this. But couldn't find any other info on it.

What does the inside of the warp look like? Is there a simple wireing diagram somewhere for this mod?

Thanks

[Duck Hunt]

I wouldn't bother trying this MOD, it worked, but it DOESN'T work for these reasons.

Since theres no board, theres no dwell time for the warp discs, it worked when I'd pull the trigger ALL the way back, making the mircoswitch turn the discs enough, shooting off one ball was risky because the next ball wouldn't be chambered all the way, shooting STRiNGS of paint worked because the discs spun enough to feed correctly.

I never really had a problem with this mod UNTIL I put trigger stops on my trigger, then I chopped like crazy because the the balls weren't being loaded correctly.

Don't try it, the cons outweigh the pros.

Sean

[Jazkal]

Thanks for the quick reply.

[Jazkal]

Duck Hunt,

Can you tell me how you did this mod? I have a project that really needs this mod. I'm discussing it over here:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=166408

Thanks

[harpo568]

I LIKE!
I may try this with the warp on my e-mag(have to mod it slightly though...have to keep the board intact and make it able to switch over... since I also use the same warp for my Tippmann A-5)...going to have to either get a cable or make one myself(if i can find out how to wire it up myself).

[e.t.]

lol was thinking the same thing for my emag but not sure where it will go inside the trigger frame can u please tell me pics will help