I figured out the blender problem-now to fix it!

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  • trains are bad
    Registered User
    • Oct 2003
    • 1751

    #1

    I figured out the blender problem-now to fix it!

    My mate has a BKO. We knew he needed a faster hopper than a revvy so he bought a halo. It still chops. Knowing that he wasn't outshooting the hopper, I started investigating. We had already done the macroline mod.

    It took me a while but I figured out that there are some deficiencies in the design when it comes to dealing with FF hoppers.

    First, I shot, turned the marker off, and with a mask on looked into the breech from the front. You could see the paintball in the breech had rolled back into the cup in the bolt and the next paintball was protruding into the breech. It is this that is causing his chopping.

    Drop a ball in the feedneck with the bolt open. tip the marker up. you will see the ball roll backward about 1/8". Tip it down and it will roll 1/8" forward of center before it even hits the detent. This movement is what allows the next ball to stick into the breech just enough to get nicked by the bolt.

    I shoot a warped mag. I never chop paintballs, and by that I mean never all summer. The ule warp body was designed, obviously, for forcefeed. If you drop a paintball in, it is trapped. It can't go even a milimeter forward befor hitting the detent, nor a milimeter backward before hitting the square face of the LX bolt. Consequently, the next paintball hits the highest part of the chameberd paintball and stays out of the way of the bolt.

    To fix his chopping, I plan to 1) drill his body opposite the current detent and install an autococker plunger style detent in the proper position, so the ball cannot roll foreward. This is better than the stock detent and looks trick anyway.

    2) modify his bolt, to have a square face, so the paintball cannot roll back into it. This is where I need your help. If anyone makes an aftermarket BKO bolt with a square face, than I can just buy that instead of modifying the stock one. The few shops around here don't know much about bushies and so we can't tell if such a thing exists. I was planning to slice the bolt longways and glue/pin a 'cross' of plastic in, or find some way to incorporate the LX foamie.

    Alternately, he could get a revvy or maybe egg, and install eyes. But I think the halo would be faster.
    TRB's feedback
  • Joni
    Registered User
    • Nov 2003
    • 942

    #2
    Another Idea would be installing two detents on the same side of the body, one preventing roll-forward, and the another roll-back.


    ULE RT Custom

    Red ULE body
    ULT
    Electric Logic vert frame

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    • trains are bad
      Registered User
      • Oct 2003
      • 1751

      #3
      I thought of that, like a Blazer, but the bolt doesnt' actually come back past the rear of the feedneck, it's just that it is very hollow so the ball can kinda fit into it. I suppose I may be able to cut a scallop in one side of the bolt to allow a second detent. That might not be a bad idea.
      Last edited by trains are bad; 11-22-2004, 12:12 PM.
      TRB's feedback

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      • trains are bad
        Registered User
        • Oct 2003
        • 1751

        #4
        same thing happens to a lesser degree if the ball goes foreward a bit before hitting the too-far detent.
        TRB's feedback

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        • personman

          #5
          I think I have an easier solution to your problem.
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          Try the oring bumper mod. I think it should effectivly reduce the roll back buy actually moving where the bolt sits at rest forward.. I may be mistaken though.

          Comment

          • Emenresu
            Registered User
            • Oct 2004
            • 2

            #6
            hehe thats my ram
            or you can get a paper clip and heat it up with an lighter and melt a hole through the tip of the top and bottom of the bolt and then cut the paper clip to slightly less in diameter of the bolt and put it in then epoxy the out side

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