well its technicaly electro pneumatic

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • txaggie08
    Big mouth
    • Jan 2005
    • 1213

    #1

    well its technicaly electro pneumatic

    This will be a build log of my new e-frame. im doing something simlar to what the electrician did, but it will not require building a manifold. im not the god of fabrication, so if you see me making a blatent mistake, please point it out

    the digi cam is in my moms classroom,so pics will be forth coming about 5:00CT tommorow.

    basicaly im almost done. I got a rechargeable battery out of a spyder, a 5 way soleniod with the OFF/ flow through side capped(i had it hear, plus it likes CO2) , and a spyder board(t-board is what im eventualy planning.....60 bucks for a good basic board cant be beat) into my rpg chimera tonight.i will get a part number for the valve once i get over to BEOG, it came off the front of my rainmaker. very good 6v valve. it will also take the same size barbs as the mpa-3 i used(same as ~e~ an phish and whoever else did the mech version(or in ~e~'s case an e-version to)).the LPR is vert mounted off of a vert asa. i used a tfitting above it for air input, and the asa's normal input will feed the gun.

    my last hurtle is getting a plunger built for the mpa-3 and to mount a switch. im going to use a mouse switch i think mounted above the trigger in the fram(this is wierd to explain........like i said pics are coming ASAP).

    once i get that buttoned up ive got to go down to the pro shop and grab a hose for the lpr and route it(shouldnt take ten mins) and charge my battery. i SHOULD be able to test it by wednesday.

    as i said pics and a basic guide are coming. if the epoxy i want to use to mount my actuator with works, this may be simpler and not THAT much more than the mech(im thinking maybe 125$ for the whole thing done to an existing frame. ill post a build tally if everything had to be bought.

    thanks and GIG'EM. btw please dont gripe about the pics, ill get em ASAP
    Last edited by txaggie08; 04-24-2005, 10:25 PM.
  • Joni
    Registered User
    • Nov 2003
    • 942

    #2
    I would really suggest getting a good microswitch, mouseswitches really aren't as good as a real switch, and they aren't expensive.


    ULE RT Custom

    Red ULE body
    ULT
    Electric Logic vert frame

    Comment

    • txaggie08
      Big mouth
      • Jan 2005
      • 1213

      #3
      yeah i started thinking about what the one in my rainmaker did not long ago(fell apart). im talking to a guy over on paintballforum about getting one for about 5.00. i have to go to radio shack for a voltage converter(i want to cut the voltage down to six from the 8.9 it puts out now......) and ill look at there selection there. the last one i got had a wee bit to much pulllength for my tastes, but ill se what they and the local pb shop have . it might get to test fire tommorow if the pb shop is open and the scuba tanks at my teammates still have 2k or so in them



      heres a question, what purpose does that HUGE 1600farad cap on the spyder board serve? im thinking its to give the solenoid in the esp frames some extra oomph. if thats the case im either going to cut it down to a MUCH smaller cap, or just connect the circuit and forget a stupid capacitor. What do yall think about the cap issue/the need for it for that matter?

      Comment

      • undescriptive
        Battered and Bruised
        • Apr 2004
        • 279

        #4
        the cap is there to keep the current nice and high for the solenoid....

        having a big cap shouldn't hurt the gun in any way....

        infact it should take most of the strain off the battery.....
        I'd keep it for now and try it as it is...
        then tinker with it a bit at a time!

        Comment

        • txaggie08
          Big mouth
          • Jan 2005
          • 1213

          #5
          no room in the inn for the big one i may cut it back to a 800(i think i have room for it), but all this crap is CRAMMED into that frame. ill see what happens tommorow

          Comment

          • Joni
            Registered User
            • Nov 2003
            • 942

            #6
            I doubt that you need a cap with with your valve. It's really just a waste of space.


            ULE RT Custom

            Red ULE body
            ULT
            Electric Logic vert frame

            Comment

            • UTDragun
              Tennessee Paintvols
              • Feb 2005
              • 1052

              #7
              any recent news?
              embargo backwards = o grab me

              "Guns dont kill people, husbands that come home early do." -Larry The Cable Guy

              Dragun Drallion, nexus kit, tickler, e2, pysco 5" drop w/ on off, macroline, A+ bolt and back block, Oydessy 3 barrel kit, armson stealth, 15* ASA, Kapp pump arm, Black Magic, warp feed w/ 12v upgrade, halo b w/ vic&rip, 91/4500 bulldog

              Tippmann 98C ebolt, lp kit, m-16 kit, palmer stabilizer

              Comment

              • trains are bad
                Registered User
                • Oct 2003
                • 1751

                #8
                I built one that is still going strong.

                I don't know if the Tboard will have the proper amount of adjustments to make it work. I'm currently running 25ms of solenoind dwell, I'd be surprised if spyders were longer than 10 or so.

                I don't think there would be a problem running a 5v solenoid on 9v, so I wouldn't bother with a voltage regulator.

                I also doubt you will need a cap, at least with my solenoid I don't. I inititially had one but I took it out to eliminate static battery drain, and it still shoots 20 bps so it's all good.

                Get a real switch, I have some here I'd sell for cheap if you want. They are only like a dollar new. Mouser.com

                If you think space is tight in that chimera, try working in a Yframe. The chimeras is HUGE in comparison.
                TRB's feedback

                Comment

                • AnthonyDStone
                  Tie Dye Artist
                  • Dec 2004
                  • 681

                  #9
                  Originally posted by trains are bad
                  I built one that is still going strong.

                  I don't know if the Tboard will have the proper amount of adjustments to make it work. I'm currently running 25ms of solenoind dwell, I'd be surprised if spyders were longer than 10 or so.

                  I don't think there would be a problem running a 5v solenoid on 9v, so I wouldn't bother with a voltage regulator.

                  I also doubt you will need a cap, at least with my solenoid I don't. I inititially had one but I took it out to eliminate static battery drain, and it still shoots 20 bps so it's all good.

                  Get a real switch, I have some here I'd sell for cheap if you want. They are only like a dollar new. Mouser.com

                  If you think space is tight in that chimera, try working in a Yframe. The chimeras is HUGE in comparison.
                  Spyder dwell can be as much as 50ms!

                  Tony
                  :headbang: Stony :headbang: undefined

                  Comment

                  • trains are bad
                    Registered User
                    • Oct 2003
                    • 1751

                    #10
                    I doubt that because if the sear dwelled for .050 seconds that would imply that the theoretical minimum cycle time would be .05 seconds, which gives a MROF of around 20hz and I am sure spyders blend at a higher ROF than that. My electromag works with a sear dwell down to 8ms and I imagine (no pun intended) that spyder sear dwell is on the same magnitude
                    TRB's feedback

                    Comment

                    • tippyjack
                      Registered User
                      • Mar 2005
                      • 42

                      #11
                      I believe that you can change the dwell of Sypder T-boards...

                      Comment

                      • SteelSoul
                        Registered User
                        • Jun 2003
                        • 315

                        #12
                        Hey what are you going to do with you ol Rainmaker?
                        If you dont want it I might take it off your hands


                        Can't wait to see your pics. I was thinking of doing the same thing you are and I would love to see your results.

                        SS
                        RT
                        14in Lapco Bigshot
                        Raptor 68/4500
                        Revvy
                        Good Traders:
                        fire1811, Psychobillygoat,Chris,Tolley,rpm07,smegle5

                        Comment

                        • warbeak2099
                          That is my foot!
                          • Jan 2004
                          • 4447

                          #13
                          Tboards are incredibly adjustable and are perfect for these kinds of mods. I'm using one with my vert e-mag project. Just have to mod and mount the noid and I'm done.
                          My Feedback

                          Comment

                          Working...