The HLT (Hyperlight Trigger)

[Alpha]

I had an idea... What if you used something to pull the sear back right before the point of firing internally?

In other words, use an elastic to reduce trigger pull distance instead of set screws. On RT's, it would still allow for the trigger to kick forward. Would that result in more bounce?

And forget mags, what if you did it to some sort of sear trippre spyder clone? Use an adjustable elastic to pull the trigger back to the point just before the switch depresses. Remove all the lag.

Or would this just make it easier to shortstroke a mag?

Just a brainfart.

And how about this... Why do we even need a board on e/x mags? When it comes down to it, its just a sear tripper.

Why does there have to be a board? Why not just put in a whole circuit? For example, when you hit the microswitch, the circuit from the battery to the solenoid is completed, and the solenoid trips?

..Sure the noid would remain on until you let go of the trigger, and if you have enough pressure in your mag or shims in the ULT... That would mean full auto firing, depending on how strong the solenoid is.

I may tinker around with this idea on a blowback.

[ScatterPlot]

I believe the board helps with power consumption issues. The solenoid would probably end up overheating (unless you used a different kind than in there now).

By all means though, try it and let us know!

[p8ntball365]

Are you saying put a rubber band on the trigger?

[Duck Hunt]

The whole rubber band idea is kinda moot. The trigger return spring should do exactly what you're thinking of. The point of trigger stops on any gun is to shorten the pull and aids in faster firing.

A rubber band won't stop you're finger from traveling the whole distance, use a set screw. And putting one on the sear? Umm its already got a return spring.

A simple curcuit would work..to a point. Board have "Logic" and thats whats needed to make a board thats useable. For example...there'd be NO debounce options, set your simple curcuit trigger too light, you'd have problems.

Now inside your idea is a good fact: Heavier return force on a trigger OR solenoid sear tripper means faster cycling. Everyone craaaaaves lighter trigger pulls BUT theres only so much a microswitch can push, you'll get a faster firing string with a heavier pulll IF you can pull it fast ;-)

Sean

[SpitFire1299]

I had a really good idea, but im scared to share it... ill see what i can do.

[p8ntball365]

Post it.

[SpitFire1299]

Ill describe it, but my diagram ill keep to myself for now..

The sear pin is dropper farther down in order to make the pull of the trigger very light, and but more distance. When you hit the trigger, with little effort.. it causes a tube(filled with air supplied and regulated by a smaller regulator like your foregrip[another hose would go into the trigger frame]) to become unblocked, forcing air to go into a piston like object, pushing it into the extended sear pin. Once its out to the point where the gun shoots, the piston releases its air and is pushed back in by a spring. As the sear pin is pushed back, the tube filled with air is closed and re-regulated. The counterforce of the on/off assembly sets the sear pin back, like automags do, but i thought it would be smart to have a spring pushing it back also.
I need the diagram.. jeez..
Dont steal my idea please.. lol, its probley already been thought of.

Generally what it is, is like a real small and more simple automag valve, with the reversed bolt(piston in this case..) hitting/tipping the sear.

[ScatterPlot]

That's the design of all the pneumatic mags out there.


Also the same as the emag, except it uses a solenoid.